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Staining a Bookshelf

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Forum topic by Hudster00 posted 12-11-2014 06:00 PM 792 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Hudster00

4 posts in 725 days


12-11-2014 06:00 PM

Topic tags/keywords: stain book shelf

Howdy! I am just wondering about how much someone should charge (excluding materials) to stain a 4’x10’ bookshelf. And then a 4’x8’ bookshelf too. How much should that be charged? Someone asked me to do it and i have absolutely no clue what to charge them. I said I’d do it for free as a favor but they insist on giving me a fair price.

Also, I am not sure what kind of stain i would be able to use on it.


5 replies so far

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DrDirt

4169 posts in 3205 days


#1 posted 12-11-2014 06:47 PM

If it is made out of cheap pine…. about 50,000 bucks to cover the frustration….the stain doesn’t soak in worth a damn.

There are ways to deal with it from acetone wipe-down + shellac to seal the sap/resin in place, then using toners of gel stain, but it is TOTALLY miserable, and nearly never looks right.

If it is a hardwood – even poplar – staining is easy
Are they asking for a Finish – - or only doing the stain to a particular color? (a clear coat has to be applied – by you or them)

-- 'Political correctness is fascism pretending to be manners' ~George Carlin

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4027 posts in 1814 days


#2 posted 12-11-2014 07:51 PM

Staining pine is a nightmare, plan on using a sealer first or blotch will be your middle name.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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Hudster00

4 posts in 725 days


#3 posted 12-12-2014 02:31 AM

They DO want it to be finished. So what should be the correct process then!

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DrDirt

4169 posts in 3205 days


#4 posted 12-12-2014 04:31 AM

sealer (either sanding sealer or thin coat of shellac)
If PINE, or Maple (a close pore wood) GEL Stain.

Clear coat -
lots of choices – I would spray lacquer because I have an HVLP sprayer.
or a brush/wipe on poly. Like General Finishes Arm-R-Seal

Since you were ready to do it for free as a favor anyway – - I would look at the price of the materials, then go 2X.
If you will use 30 in materials do it for 60 bucks.

If I were doining it for a real customer, making a living, it would be 2-300. 50 in materials and about 6 hours time at 35/hour

Consider autobody, get a ding or scrape that requires a spot paint job and it will cost you 800 bucks.

-- 'Political correctness is fascism pretending to be manners' ~George Carlin

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Hudster00

4 posts in 725 days


#5 posted 12-12-2014 05:24 AM



sealer (either sanding sealer or thin coat of shellac)
If PINE, or Maple (a close pore wood) GEL Stain.

Clear coat -
lots of choices – I would spray lacquer because I have an HVLP sprayer.
or a brush/wipe on poly. Like General Finishes Arm-R-Seal

Since you were ready to do it for free as a favor anyway – - I would look at the price of the materials, then go 2X.
If you will use 30 in materials do it for 60 bucks.

If I were doining it for a real customer, making a living, it would be 2-300. 50 in materials and about 6 hours time at 35/hour

Consider autobody, get a ding or scrape that requires a spot paint job and it will cost you 800 bucks.

- DrDirt


Thanks man. Now. in terms of stain and finish. What type of stain should i use if its pourous and what type should i use if its close pored? And, if it IS close pored, is there something that’d work better than stain on it? i have always used rags and paper towels to apply stain and poly. I am planning on doing this: sand lightly with fine paper, apply stain and let it dry, sand again, apply, sand, apply. Now, should i sand again before the finish?For the finish, would it be smart to use a spray or a wipe? and is there a particular kind ya’ll tend to favor? Wow! I really HAVENT done this for a while!

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