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Making a table top look thicker by laminating

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Forum topic by Michigander posted 12-11-2014 05:38 PM 1224 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Michigander

214 posts in 1884 days


12-11-2014 05:38 PM

Topic tags/keywords: spalted maple laminate table top

I am going to be building a spalted maple table 42” x 60” with breadboard ends. I want the finished thickness to be 2”, but am having trouble finding quality material in that thickness. I am thinking to use 1” material and on each side laminate a another 1” piece to the top board so the edge is 2” thick. In other words the perimeter of the table is 2” while the interior is 1”. Does this make sense to do and is it doable? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks John


4 replies so far

View jmartel's profile

jmartel

6572 posts in 1615 days


#1 posted 12-11-2014 06:01 PM

BigRedKnotHead is doing something similar right now, but on a larger scale. I can’t see why it wouldn’t work. I would try and source some 8/4 spalted maple to use on the ends rather than laminating 2 1” pieces. If you laminate, you will be able to see the joint line between the two pieces whereas using 8/4 stock on the edges will give the illusion of a fully 2” thick top.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

4858 posts in 2278 days


#2 posted 12-11-2014 06:02 PM

That would work. I would make the tabletop in stages, then glue on the perimeter boards last. Then trim everything up with a circular saw and edgeguide.
Otherwise you might consider making the top 1” thick and the breadboards 1-1/2” thick. That might be enough to make the top appear thicker.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Michigander's profile

Michigander

214 posts in 1884 days


#3 posted 12-11-2014 09:59 PM

Thanks guys for the encouragement and ideas. I like the idea of making the perimeter and breadboards of 2” stock, but 2” spalted maple is tough to find in 42” lengths and longer. I have found some “rustic” maple that I could use. This looks similar but with much less mottling.(almost none just blonde with some dark streaks) What do you think of using a contrasting wood like walnut or would that spoil the look. I am making benches too so I I will be doing the same process to them.
John

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

14594 posts in 2148 days


#4 posted 12-11-2014 10:15 PM

There is one other trick

Make the top wider and longer by that extra 1-2”

Come back and rip to size, and cut to length, but save the cut-offs

Cut the ends to a 45 degree angle ( works IF you do the rips first)

Rotate each cut-off 180 degrees, so the cut edges match. Like you had just folded them down and under the top.

Glue them in place. Grain should be a match, so it looks like a thicker boad.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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