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Forum topic by Joel_B posted 12-11-2014 05:32 PM 1014 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Joel_B

294 posts in 847 days


12-11-2014 05:32 PM

I recently upgraded my Craftsman 113 saw with a new Delta T2 fence and I will be using it a lot more.
I am looking for suggestions on accessories to make it safer and cleaner more accurate cuts.
I would think the blade might be a good place to start, I did buy a new thin kerf blade some years ago, its red and I think it might be Diablo. It was a huge improvement over the original so I am not sure there is anything much better. I did notice the saw bogging down while ripping DF 2×4 length wise but that could just be from a lack of power. Some other thoughts:

Featherboards to put vertical downward pressure on the work piece. I have seen where feather boards are somehow attached / clamped to the fence. I don’t think this will work with the T2 fence as it is only attached at the front of the saw and will lift up at the back with any upward pressure. I could clamp the back of the fence down but that would not be convenient. I found this Magswitch system that looks pretty nice but pricey:

Anything to reduce the chance of kick back.

Dust collection.

A better miter gauge than the original (maybe Incra?)

Outfeed table for long boards, I am planning to use my router table that I am currently building for this.

Thanks for any suggestions

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA


10 replies so far

View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1574 days


#1 posted 12-11-2014 05:39 PM

I have a bunch of Magswitch components. I love them – they are strong, versatile, and easy to setup. They aren’t cheap, but they are really useful – and I’d definitely recommend the switch-activated magnets over the cheaper cam-lever magnetic featherboards. Plus I really like the double-stack and the vertical hold-down.

If you just need a featherboard, Home Depot sells a cheaper Ridgid model – I have one that I use for my table saw and my jointer: http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-MagSwitch-Plastic-Featherboard-AC1001/100618240. You can also build your own magnetic accessories using two or three switch magnets from Harbor Freight, $13 each: http://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html.

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

View BorkBob's profile

BorkBob

124 posts in 2158 days


#2 posted 12-11-2014 06:07 PM

A word of caution: pinching of the work piece can lead to the saw blade lifting the piece and throwing it at you. This is called kick back. From you comments, I am inclined to recommend a good book on table saw use. Study it so that you come to understand the good and the bad about table saws.

When cutting any lumber, but especially construction grade, gremlins in the wood that don’t want to be seen may cause the kerf to close, pinching the blade. When this happens to me, I stop pushing and shut off the saw. If a wedge installed in the kerf will open the kerf enough to free the board, I back the board up, hold on tight and restart the saw.

I have a BORK (won’t work with your saw) and dust collecting blade guard on my saw and I make very few cuts without them. Any kind of splitter is better than no splitter. Craftsman saws often have a throat insert plate that is only 3/32” thick. The stock splitter and guard is not convenient to use and is usually hung on the wall or thrown into the corner.

I disagree with the common wisdom that says a splitter is there to hold the kerf open and hold the work against the fence. The splitter has to be thinner than the teeth of the saw blade so it can’t hold the kerf open enough for the teeth to pass. While a splitter will keep the work from wandering a great distance from the fence, it’s the operators job, IMO, to hold the work and guide it.

I would suggest buying or making a zero clearance insert for your saw and using it to support a splitter. The splitter can be commercially made or it can be as simple as a scrap of wood glued into the kerf of the insert.

-- Please Pray for Our Troops / Semper Fi / Bob Ross / www.theborkstore.com

View Joel_B's profile

Joel_B

294 posts in 847 days


#3 posted 12-11-2014 06:15 PM



I have a bunch of Magswitch components. I love them – they are strong, versatile, and easy to setup. They aren t cheap, but they are really useful – and I d definitely recommend the switch-activated magnets over the cheaper cam-lever magnetic featherboards. Plus I really like the double-stack and the vertical hold-down.

If you just need a featherboard, Home Depot sells a cheaper Ridgid model – I have one that I use for my table saw and my jointer: http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-MagSwitch-Plastic-Featherboard-AC1001/100618240. You can also build your own magnetic accessories using two or three switch magnets from Harbor Freight, $13 each: http://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html.

- ADHDan

Thanks for the feedback on the Magswitch. I do already feather boards I bought from Rockler that work horizontally in the miter slot of my TS and Router table, but the Magswitch is attractive for the ease of use and capabilities.

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1625 posts in 2098 days


#4 posted 12-11-2014 06:20 PM

I have a magnetic featherboard that I LOVE. I don’t have the vertical function, just horizontal. Works beautifully. Its a safety device that easy to use…....which makes it more likely to actually be used. The featherboard ‘seemed’ expensive when I bought it….....but I’d gladly pay twice as much if I had to replace it tomorrow.

I recently (last week) bought an Incra V27 miter guage, but have not used it yet. Will report back.

I used clothespins to secure a trashbag under my 113. Its ghetto….but does catch a lot of the mess. It also doubles as a trashcan.

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

2854 posts in 2697 days


#5 posted 12-11-2014 06:22 PM

A good, clean, sharp blade will make a world of difference.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View oldretiredjim's profile

oldretiredjim

203 posts in 1851 days


#6 posted 12-11-2014 06:22 PM

My T2 is held both front and back. I use different mag featherboards. Irwin Marples are made in Italy and are pretty good. I have a rip blade and 50 tooth combo. I have a band saw so I have a number if inserts for different purposes, dado, zc, tilted blade. Working on dust collection but not there yet.

View Joel_B's profile

Joel_B

294 posts in 847 days


#7 posted 12-11-2014 06:37 PM

Bob,

Thanks for all the great suggestions. I think a book is a good idea as I have no formal training on using a table saw, just some experience. What book would you recommend? I have heard of splitters and zero clearance plates but didn’t think to include them in my list. The Micro Jig splitter seems to be the most common, but some people reported problems installing them into a ZCI which are almost always phenolic which apparently can be damaged if it isn’t drilled properly.


A word of caution: pinching of the work piece can lead to the saw blade lifting the piece and throwing it at you. This is called kick back. From you comments, I am inclined to recommend a good book on table saw use. Study it so that you come to understand the good and the bad about table saws.

When cutting any lumber, but especially construction grade, gremlins in the wood that don t want to be seen may cause the kerf to close, pinching the blade. When this happens to me, I stop pushing and shut off the saw. If a wedge installed in the kerf will open the kerf enough to free the board, I back the board up, hold on tight and restart the saw.

I have a BORK (won t work with your saw) and dust collecting blade guard on my saw and I make very few cuts without them. Any kind of splitter is better than no splitter. Craftsman saws often have a throat insert plate that is only 3/32” thick. The stock splitter and guard is not convenient to use and is usually hung on the wall or thrown into the corner.

I disagree with the common wisdom that says a splitter is there to hold the kerf open and hold the work against the fence. The splitter has to be thinner than the teeth of the saw blade so it can t hold the kerf open enough for the teeth to pass. While a splitter will keep the work from wandering a great distance from the fence, it s the operators job, IMO, to hold the work and guide it.

I would suggest buying or making a zero clearance insert for your saw and using it to support a splitter. The splitter can be commercially made or it can be as simple as a scrap of wood glued into the kerf of the insert.

- BorkBob

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

View Joel_B's profile

Joel_B

294 posts in 847 days


#8 posted 12-11-2014 06:41 PM



My T2 is held both front and back. I use different mag featherboards. Irwin Marples are made in Italy and are pretty good. I have a rip blade and 50 tooth combo. I have a band saw so I have a number if inserts for different purposes, dado, zc, tilted blade. Working on dust collection but not there yet.

- oldretiredjim

Interesting about the T2, how is it held on the back? Mine just sits on top of the back rail on a white plastic block. There is a metal hook but it doesn’t hold anything.

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

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Joel_B

294 posts in 847 days


#9 posted 12-11-2014 10:30 PM

I am kind of rethinking if it is worth putting more money into this saw.
I have already spent $190 on a fence and I could spend another $65 on a ZCI and splitter but it will still be under powered and lack dust collection, blade guard and riving knife. If I could sell it for $250 or more with the new fence and put that towards a Delta 36-725 I think that might make more sense.

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

View oldretiredjim's profile

oldretiredjim

203 posts in 1851 days


#10 posted 12-12-2014 04:46 PM

My T2 has a piece of angle in addition to the nylon slide it sits on. I’ll take a pic today and send it as a PM. Not only does it serve to hold the unit down, it is there to hold the thing in place front to back.

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