Tablesaw comparison help

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Forum topic by PhillipRCW posted 12-11-2014 04:26 PM 1745 views 1 time favorited 48 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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475 posts in 1287 days

12-11-2014 04:26 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question resource tablesaw blade miter saw

First off, holy hell are these cabinet/contractor saws expensive. I still haven’t replaced mine since the tornado took out my house last year. Got all the legal paperwork out of the way to start my business though and now I desperately need a good saw. I’ve looked through so many brands and need some help from others now. Is Sawstop worth the money? Should I just go with a Delta or Laguna and call it good? Or will a Ridgid do just as well as the rest of them for a 1/3 the cost? I’m also buying a new miter saw, but that seems to be down to the ridgid 12” or the dewalt.

1500-3000 for a sawstop. I know the safety factor is there, but what if it misfires? $150 down the drain easy. Has anyone seen this happen?

900-1400 for a good Laguna or Delta saw.

599 for the Orange Store special from Ridgid.

-- Phillip- Measure twice, cut onc.... Hey look, it's rustic.

48 replies so far

View daddywoofdawg's profile


1028 posts in 1597 days

#1 posted 12-11-2014 04:55 PM

would be my choices in order

View Tedstor's profile


1643 posts in 2655 days

#2 posted 12-11-2014 05:01 PM

You’re starting a woodworking business?
That would immediately disqualify the Ridgid for me. Too many potential alignment and quality issues. If I were looking at big box specials, I’d be looking at the Delta from Lowes.
But a cabinet saw would be my choice if I were making my living with it. Even if I bought used.
I’d skip Laguna and look at Delta, Sawstop, or Powermatic. I’d look into JET as well, although in many cases JET doesn’t offer a lot for the money (IMO). A good sale price might change that equation though.

View PhillipRCW's profile


475 posts in 1287 days

#3 posted 12-11-2014 05:03 PM

It’s a hobby business. Wife told me I had to recoup the cost of tools. I’ll definitely be able to do that. I work out of the garage so I need to be semi-mobile.

-- Phillip- Measure twice, cut onc.... Hey look, it's rustic.

View Joel_B's profile


342 posts in 1404 days

#4 posted 12-11-2014 05:09 PM

Don’t buy Delta unless it was made in USA.
(not a new one).
Even then if you need parts its going to be a problem.
I say this because I recently had a bad experience with a Delta product and their customer service.
That doesn’t mean you will.
I’m sure a Delta saw can be made to work really well but if it was me I would look elsewhere.

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

View jmartel's profile


7951 posts in 2172 days

#5 posted 12-11-2014 05:10 PM

If you’re going to spend ~$1000, I’d buy a Grizzly cabinet saw.

if you don’t have/want to put in 220V, or

If you have it or can put it in.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View bonesbr549's profile


1557 posts in 3089 days

#6 posted 12-11-2014 05:19 PM

Ok if this is your business then Sawstop! you mention a firing of cartridge costing 150. Big deal if it’s saving your fingers / hand. The cost of an accident could reach 250k.

Quality wise top notch. Feel the pain once! Rigid should not be in the same conversation. I had a griz for 10 years and it served me well, but no comparrison to the SS.

Finally if you will be doing it as a business I would reccomend the ICS. Again, if you average the initial cost over the life of the saw, it’s not that much.

That’s my two cents worth, but then that and a buck fifty will get you a cup of coffee. Good luck!

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

View rantingrich's profile


372 posts in 1368 days

#7 posted 12-11-2014 05:29 PM

If I had the scratch I would definitely get the SAWSTOP. I have done a lot of reading and almost all the misfires are from small items of metal in the wood. Such as a staple usually in the end of a board. Most folks that have what they consider a misfire later sees a spot or even tiny bit of blood on their finger so they actually did touch the blade.

But yea a new BRAKE will cost you. Better you loose a little money than a hand or fingers. ALSO the blade will be cashed as well.

America, being what it is, I suspect every table saw manufacture will have to install a SAWSTOP devise or install another sort or devise after all this goes through the courts. Increasing a base model table saw as mush as double what they are now.

Also anyone with employees or students or any other person other than themselves using Their table saw would be a fool to not use a SAWSTOP.

Their Attorney would destroy you in court

-- Rich

View Richard H's profile

Richard H

489 posts in 1703 days

#8 posted 12-11-2014 05:41 PM

The Sawstop is built as well as any other cabinet saw out there. Yea it’s more money but there is quality there in addition to the safety features. It’s a personal choice rather that quality and safety is worth the premium price or not. I think there is a general myth about the number of false triggers that happen on these things as well. My school has 4 of them used 7 days a week by students and there wasn’t a single false trigger that I know of this semester. Yea it does happen but it’s without question a result of someone doing something they shouldn’t have been doing in the first place like cutting though a miter fence. And when they do go off for a good reason they are worth every little bit of extra money they cost. And it’s not even a question of you pushing your fingers though the blade either, things like kickback loosing your footing or pieces shifting/breaking can cause your hands to move into places you never planned for them to go.

I won’t say there are no other high quality cabinet saw brands on the market that are worth buying because there are and I don’t like how the braking system is being litigated into our lives as I think it should be a personal decision not one made for us by attorney’s but it is a great well built saw overall.

View a1Jim's profile


117115 posts in 3600 days

#9 posted 12-11-2014 06:22 PM

I had almost an Identical comment to make as Richard except the school I teach out of has three saw stops and during the day they are in use by students from the Jr high and high school.If I remember right it 2years worth of use they have been triggered twice ,one for a students finger and once for one of my adult students using wet wood.
In my opinion you should not be worrying about $150 for a blade and cartage but instead about the $20,000 hand surgery and posable loss of a hand or fingers and months of therapy and lost of income.
If you want a saw that will last long term,don’t play around with toy saws buy a SAWSTOP ICS and have a lifetime saw(barring tornadoes ),

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View Rob's profile


704 posts in 3093 days

#10 posted 12-11-2014 06:27 PM

If you’re not buying a SawStop and have time to wait and watch Craigslist for deals, you can probably save yourself several hundred bucks on a cabinet saw. In the meantime you can try to get by with other tools. For example, it’s easier to cut sheet goods with a circular saw or track saw anyway. Also some communities have wood shops that the public can use. Check for a local makerspace or college/university woodshop. Or if you haven’t already, check with a local woodworking club to see if anyone knows of some resources you can use to get started.

The replacement SawStop brake is free if you send it in and they confirm that it fired due to flesh contact.

If you’re concerned about misfires on a piece of green or wet wood, do a test cut in bypass mode with your hands far away from the blade. If the light flashes red during or immediately after the cut, then the brake would have fired if the saw wasn’t in bypass mode. Other misfires can be caused by staples or nails, or unintentionally cutting into some thing metal that your hand is also touching (e.g., a miter gauge with a metal fence).

Also, a common misconception is that you have to remember to take the saw out of bypass mode. This is not true. As soon as the blade stops moving after a cut in bypass mode, the safety system will automatically go back to normal operation. If you want to make a second cut in bypass mode after the blade spins down, you have to go through the sequence to enable bypass mode again.

-- Ask an expert or be the expert -

View PhillipRCW's profile


475 posts in 1287 days

#11 posted 12-11-2014 06:36 PM

Ok I am such a cheapskate when it comes to spending money, but I really think I’m leaning towards the Sawstop now. The warranty says it only covers 1 year though.

-- Phillip- Measure twice, cut onc.... Hey look, it's rustic.

View jmartel's profile


7951 posts in 2172 days

#12 posted 12-11-2014 06:39 PM

If you’re getting a Sawstop, I’d buy the cabinet saw version. Either the 1.75hp one or the 3hp version.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View DrDirt's profile


4424 posts in 3765 days

#13 posted 12-11-2014 06:43 PM

If you are doing this as a business – Sawstop is the ONLY rational way to go.

BTW – - with a home business – you will need Business insurance.

Your homeowners insurance will NOT cover tools or accidents on “site” because it is a business…even a hobby business, not “Personal Property”

If someone/anyone will EVER help you in your shop… a possible misfire or a 150 dollar pop is NOTHING compared to the costs and legal bills if someone gets hurt.

That part is just a sad fact of our society…. but State farm flat out tells us that if the tools in the shop are used for the business they nor the shop are covered.

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

View PhillipRCW's profile


475 posts in 1287 days

#14 posted 12-11-2014 06:47 PM

Yeah, I’ve already looked into the commercial insurance. Also have to file for my sales tax permit still. But I wanted to get this going in case I do end up having to take off work while I’m going to school. I could build enough to supplement my monthly income pretty easily. Just have to hope it sells quickly. I’ve been working with a few local interior designers and a couple store fronts to try and get stuff moving quickly once I get everything started up.

-- Phillip- Measure twice, cut onc.... Hey look, it's rustic.

View Tedstor's profile


1643 posts in 2655 days

#15 posted 12-11-2014 06:56 PM

Interesting. Two or thee years ago, I’d guess that half the LJ community poo-poo’d Sawstop. Admittedly, I was among them. But times seemed to have changed. Looks like the Sawstop haters are in the minority these days. My attitude has changed too. Price is the only thing keeping me from owning a Sawstop. But if I ever decide to upgrade to a high-end saw…...I think Sawstop will be the top of my list.

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