Tips for drilling mounting holes in aluminum router plate?

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Forum topic by ADHDan posted 12-10-2014 05:25 PM 992 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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799 posts in 1528 days

12-10-2014 05:25 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question router router table

I’ve got a Bosch RA1181 router table with stock aluminum mounting plate and I need to mount a Triton TRA001 3.25 hp router. The odd size of the Bosch plate looks like it would prohibit using a third-party plate, so I think I’ll have to drill out new holes since the TRA001 does not appear to be one of the many routers accommodated by the pre-drilled holes. All of my other routers mounted with the pre-drilled holes so this is a first for me, and I don’t want to screw it up.

So I was wondering – do you have any tips for things I should or should not do when figuring out where to drill, and then drilling, my new mounting holes?

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

3 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile (online now)


4028 posts in 1618 days

#1 posted 12-10-2014 05:45 PM

Take the base plate off the router and use it as a template to mark the holes. Then use a drill press to drill them. Pretty easy to do.


-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Bluepine38's profile


3336 posts in 2505 days

#2 posted 12-10-2014 05:49 PM

What MrUnix said, except if you have transfer punches, this is an excellent place use them. I used a drill
bit that fit snug in the base plate hole and rotated it by hand. Aluminum is soft and it is easy to start the
holes this way and assures accuracy.

-- As ever, Gus-the 77 yr young apprentice carpenter

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799 posts in 1528 days

#3 posted 12-10-2014 07:07 PM

Makes sense, thanks. I’m hoping that I can use at least one of the existing mounting holes as a starter while still keeping the bit centered in throat. I’m also hoping that there’s a configuration where the router adjustments can be front-facing, without the existing holes interfering with the new ones. And I need to check whether the Triton mounting holes are through, or whether they’re stopped (and thus require bolts of a certain length).

Are there any things that are absolutely, positively critical that I get right/not overlook?

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

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