Cut aluminum on TS?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by adrianpglover posted 12-09-2014 12:21 AM 1003 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View adrianpglover's profile


49 posts in 1489 days

12-09-2014 12:21 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw miter saw

I know I haven’t been active here in a while. I’ve been more active over at with a whole new set of projects. One of those projects has be heading back over here for a quick question…

Any comments/concerns with cutting aluminum on a TS? I have a ACB1000T60-P blade made by Concord Blades which is supposed to be able to cut non-ferrous metal and plastic. In the past I used it to roughly cut some 1/2” plexi as a mattress stiffener. Now I come to a project that requires me to cut a lot of 1-1/2” angle aluminum and I was wondering about cutting it on the TS. Now that I think about it, it may make more since to cut it on the miter saw.

Questions, comments, concerns?

7 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile (online now)


6587 posts in 2164 days

#1 posted 12-09-2014 12:32 AM

Aluminum cuts pretty easy.. you will be fine either on the TS or miter saw as long as it’s not crazy thick stuff.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View greenacres2's profile


319 posts in 2133 days

#2 posted 12-09-2014 12:52 AM

My Kreg TS miter gauge fence cut very nicely with a Freud 40 tooth combo blade. Nice clean cut, about an inch high and an inch from the end. A constant visual reminder to check that sort of thing!! I’m sure the proper blade would hold up better, but the Freud suffered no ill effects from one incident.


View BorkBob's profile


127 posts in 2658 days

#3 posted 12-09-2014 01:08 AM

I have a 7.25” miter saw dedicated to cutting 1” x 2” x.188” aluminum angle. I use a non ferrous blade. It is imperative to clamp or firmly hold the stock in place and cut slow and steady. Ii put some duct tape on the saw’s contact surfaces to help hold the stock. EYE and EAR PROTECTION and I wear a long sleeve shirt fully buttoned.

-- Please Pray for Our Troops / Semper Fi / Bob Ross /

View Nubsnstubs's profile


1280 posts in 1695 days

#4 posted 12-09-2014 01:57 AM

you probably should put some kind of lubricant on the balde to keep the aluminum from loading up on your saw teeth. Tool supply houses have something like Stick wax?. It looks like a tube of grease. You just slowly put it into a running blade until you have all the teeth coated. Takes a second or so, but your cuts will be much better. After cutting all your metal, just clean off the saw and blade, and the wood will never know you just cut metal. ............ Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

View runswithscissors's profile


2724 posts in 1990 days

#5 posted 12-09-2014 02:49 AM

Any carbide blade will work for AL, but if you are going to do a lot of it, a dedicated blade is better. The main difference (as far as I know) is that the teeth have a negative rake.

As mentioned above, skin and face protection are needed, as the chips of AL can really sting. I even wear gloves if working on the TS (as opposed to miter saw). A good lube for the blade is common old WD 40. I haven’t tried Stick Wax.

Another point: don’t wear fleece. The chips will stick in it like burrs, and you’ll have to pluck them out with needle nose pliers.

On a related note, I tried HF’s 7 1/4 inch metal cutting blade on 1 X 1.5 steel square tube, 1/8” wall. Used the RAS, but had to push as with a miter saw, not pull. When pulling, it wanted to feed too fast, and stalled the saw. Had to cut about 20 pieces. When I was done, I closely examined the teeth, and they appeared to be in perfect condition. No broken carbide or signs of dulling. Very impressive.

Of course I was wearing full body armor.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View runswithscissors's profile


2724 posts in 1990 days

#6 posted 12-10-2014 05:35 AM

Since no one has chimed in since yesterday I’ll add another point: check the blade frequently for chip buildup on the face of the carbide. You can knock these off with a pocket knife. If you don’t, the cutting will degrade and there can be quite a bit of heat buildup, which exacerbates the problem.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View Nighthawk's profile


554 posts in 2322 days

#7 posted 12-10-2014 05:45 AM

I happily put aluminum through my bandsaw…

-- Rome wasn't built in a day... but I wasn't on that job? ...

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics