|Forum topic by TheWoodenOyster||posted 12-05-2014 01:43 PM||771473 views||0 times favorited||21 replies|
12-05-2014 01:43 PM
I recently posted regarding my inability to make a decent crosscut sled. I realized that one of the culprits was no doubt the fact that my tablesaw blade was out of alignment with my miter slot. Idiot… Anyway I decided I had better fix that, so I went to HF and got a dial indicator and a magnetic base. Upon testing the blade I found about a .020 misalignment between the miter slot and the blade, enough to mess things up. I have started working on aligning them but I am not finished yet. One concern I have is that when I put the dial indicator on the body of the blade (not the teeth) right above the arbor, I get about a .005 fluctuation. This is a high quality blade and I will test another to see what the comparison is. To describe the occurrence:
1. I set the dial indicator on the body of the blade about 1” or so above the level of the saw top. The saw blade is at 90 degrees.
I have no idea what this could be, but I guess it could be an arbor issue. I know it could also be a blade issue, and I’ll check another blade today. What worries me is the resistance I get for the majority of the turning of the blade, then it gets easy for a minute. The resistance isn’t really much and by no means is difficult to turn, it just pushes back a little bit.
The saw is a direct drive early 90’s 3 HP unisaw that I bought used in very good condition. I know this is a pretty in depth issue, so I may not get many answers, but I thought I would throw it out there. Any tips would be appreciated in diagnosing this problem (if it is a problem) and any tips in calibrating a tablesaw in general would be appreciated.
-- The Wood Is Your Oyster