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Replacement Fence for Old Rockwell Tablesaw

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Forum topic by Richard posted 12-03-2014 11:43 PM 2551 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Richard

1898 posts in 2151 days


12-03-2014 11:43 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw question

I am looking to replace the Stock fence on the Rockwell Tablesaw I just got but I don’t want to have to drill the castiron table sides to do it so I am looking for a Bolt On replacement. I have been told by some that the DELTA 36-T30 T2 30-Inch Fence and Rail System will bolt on but I can’t find the specs on it to show me the distance between the holes that hold it on the table. I will measure the holes on mine and add that when I can.


9 replies so far

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

2177 posts in 1486 days


#1 posted 12-04-2014 05:24 AM

That looks like my first real table saw (over 40 years ago). You are wise to get rid of that fence. I chucked mine immediately, and made my own rails out of angle iron and made a T square fence. Much more satisfactory in every way.

I wouldn’t hesitate to re drill whatever holes you need. Though I keep seeing statements that cast iron is hard to drill, I have never found it to be so. Ordinary high speed drills, or cobalt if you are concerned, will do it. Iron is also easy to thread, with an ordinary hand tap. You can also drill properly lined up holes in the replacement rails. Of course you can drill your holes wherever you want if you make your own rails.

I do have to admit, on reflection, that a lot of people are unwilling to modify tools other than bolting something on to existing structure. Something about the sacredness of new tools, or warranty, or whatever. I think I hardly own a tool that I haven’t modified in some way—sometimes when they were practically brand new. No bolts of lightning have struck yet.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View Deulen's profile

Deulen

52 posts in 2366 days


#2 posted 12-04-2014 06:11 AM

I’ve modified many tools and believe me, Cast iron drills and taps like butter. I’ve broken hundreds of taps especially in Stainless or Aluminum but, never in Cast iron. Like sex, first time you do it can be scarey or feel uncomfortable but, you get over it. Think of it as losing your virginity again and this time
grin when you drill it!

-- Daniel M Deulen

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unbob

718 posts in 1364 days


#3 posted 12-04-2014 06:47 AM

Hey, I have one of those, and need to do the same thing.
I believe those fences should fit without drilling.

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Richard

1898 posts in 2151 days


#4 posted 12-04-2014 05:21 PM


Hey, I have one of those, and need to do the same thing. I believe those fences should fit without drilling.

- unbob

You wouldnt by chance have the right Manual and Parts list for it would you? I found a manual that covers the unit that is actualy labled contractors saw rather than tilting arbor saw and it is very close to this one but the parts lists I have found are all way off.
Another thing is that I only paid $150 for the saw and it looks like the T2 Fence is going to cost more than that unless I can find one on CL or some place else.

I also started a Blog to cover what I am doing with the saw since I got it. you can check iit out here.
http://lumberjocks.com/Racer2007/blog/43207

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unbob

718 posts in 1364 days


#5 posted 12-04-2014 07:23 PM

My saw is the same except the switch is a small toggle on the left side. It says 10” contractors saw. I looked for a manual on the vintage machine site, none there.
Its OK to put a good fence on the machine even though the contractor saws are going cheap, they are still good working machines. You can also put the new fence on a better saw down the road.

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timbertailor

1591 posts in 885 days


#6 posted 12-04-2014 08:23 PM

Very Super Cool Tool makes a really nice extruded aluminum fence that fits most diameter rails.

And, as unbob suggested, you can always move it to another saw later.

Here is an in depth video review by the wood whisperer.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

View Richard's profile

Richard

1898 posts in 2151 days


#7 posted 12-05-2014 05:51 PM


My saw is the same except the switch is a small toggle on the left side. It says 10” contractors saw. I looked for a manual on the vintage machine site, none there. Its OK to put a good fence on the machine even though the contractor saws are going cheap, they are still good working machines. You can also put the new fence on a better saw down the road.

- unbob


unbob , I found this one on the vintage machine site that I am useing for now but it looks to be the one you need.
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=5980

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Richard

1898 posts in 2151 days


#8 posted 12-05-2014 05:55 PM



Very Super Cool Tool makes a really nice extruded aluminum fence that fits most diameter rails.

And, as unbob suggested, you can always move it to another saw later.

Here is an in depth video review by the wood whisperer.

- timbertailor


Yea I have seen that one as well and also saw the review by the Wood whisperer as well , but again it is more than I paid for the saw to start with so I think I will live with the standard fence for now and just measure a lot until I can find a T2 or something else on CL or ebay. Or maybe just wait till the Tax Money comes i.n

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unbob

718 posts in 1364 days


#9 posted 12-05-2014 09:06 PM

I bought mine used in the early 80s, my first saw. The Jetlock fence has been a love to hate it thing, but with a few tricks, I always have been able to make it work. I wanted to put a Biesmeyer on it, then found a heavy cabinet saw with a Bies for not much more then the cost of a new fence.
I kept the contractor saw, nice to have a second saw, a little better fence on it would be nice though.

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