Flattening stanley #7

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Forum topic by giser3546 posted 11-28-2014 03:21 PM 1227 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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179 posts in 1648 days

11-28-2014 03:21 PM

I`ve seen several turtorials on flattening planes but my 22” long #7 is being difficult. I have my eye on a 18” long granite surface plate and im wondering if that will be long enough to flatten my plane.

-- "If you wait for it to rain, It will"

12 replies so far

View BurlyBob's profile


5936 posts in 2441 days

#1 posted 11-28-2014 04:16 PM

I’ve been using several pieces of scrap granite counter top I got from a shop’s scrap pile. A couple of them are over 24” and seem to be doing a decent job on my planes. I use a rattle can glue and cut sections of wet dri
sand paper. I mean for the totally anal perfectionist they’re probably a little off, but they seem to do fine for regular use.

View Andre's profile


2140 posts in 1982 days

#2 posted 11-28-2014 05:49 PM

Dose your table saw have a cast top? I use adhesive back sanding paper from Lowes. Working on a #6 at the moment with a #7 waiting to be picked up. The 18” granite will work okay just have to be a little more careful.

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View TheFridge's profile


10506 posts in 1662 days

#3 posted 11-28-2014 05:55 PM

After finded out the table on my unisaw was warped badly. I’d check it first before doing it that way.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View sikrap's profile


1121 posts in 3535 days

#4 posted 11-28-2014 06:19 PM

I use a piece of 36” long melamine and glue some sandpaper to that. This allows me to take long, smooth strokes with the plane rather than short choppy ones. I’m probably wrong, but I think that helps me keep the sole square to the sides. Of course, I would use a good straight edge to make sure the melamine is flat. When I’m done I can just put it in the corner until next time. Way less expensive than granite and a LOT easier to move around.

-- Dave, Colonie, NY

View giser3546's profile


179 posts in 1648 days

#5 posted 11-28-2014 06:23 PM

I actually dont have a table saw. I use my laguna 14 12 instead and my mom`s jet cabinet saw when I need to. I tried to flatten my #7 on it but its still giving me twisted edges. I also dont have any metal straightedges, im also looking at a 24” but it will cost as much as the granite.

-- "If you wait for it to rain, It will"

View BurlyBob's profile


5936 posts in 2441 days

#6 posted 11-28-2014 09:17 PM

The granite I got was from a company’s scrap pallet they were going to have to pay to dump. They were delighted I wanted it and offered me the whole pallet for free. Check around you might have the same luck. I’ve granite set for plane flattening and other pieces set up for chisel and Iron sharpening. Trust me, I’m about as tight as they get. Gots to have some cash for adult beverages.

View Don W's profile

Don W

18990 posts in 2743 days

#7 posted 11-28-2014 10:13 PM

to answer the original question though, it will work. Longer would be better, but you could make do.

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View ColonelTravis's profile


1918 posts in 2070 days

#8 posted 11-29-2014 01:35 AM

Like BurlyBob I also got a free granite sink cutout at a cabinet shop. It’s about 30 inches long, 1.5 inches thick. Some of these places will beg you to take it away, all they do is dump it in the trash. Call around.

Flattening my #8 was not fun. It would have been nice to have a longer piece of granite but like Don said it’s do-able. Took forever, one side was really out of whack. Using it, however, is great fun. Love that plane.

View Woodknack's profile


12401 posts in 2556 days

#9 posted 11-29-2014 04:25 AM

Twist is a real bi+ch to remove. My jointer had twist but luckily it’s wood so I used another plane to get it close then lapped with sandpaper.

-- Rick M,

View unbob's profile


810 posts in 2079 days

#10 posted 11-29-2014 05:44 PM

As a machinist, the Bailey type planes gets my vote as one of the most difficult cast iron objects to deal with.
What I found, it does not really seem to matter much what series the things are, the castings can be inconsistent in the hardness of the iron. The harder ones tend to warp the worst. The main problem is the thin cross section casting machined on one side. The scale on the non machined side has built up stress, when the sole is machined, the stresses from the top side cause the sole to warp after its machined. This exact same thing happens on jointer fences, the fence tends to bow inward on the machined side. Powermatic suggest blocking the fence and standing on it to straighten it, or clamp boards to it and twist it back true. I was able to improve the twist on a #8 by twisting it in the opposite direction while tapping on it with a small hammer, but, that has to be done very carefully as it would be far too easy to break it in half through the blade slot.

View giser3546's profile


179 posts in 1648 days

#11 posted 11-29-2014 09:58 PM

I ended up buying a 6×18x2 granite surfacing slab. I considered getting scrap granite from a few places locally but considering the straight edges I saw were about the same price as the $40 granite I didn’t see a point. I went through an entire pack of 80 grit sand paper and managed to take just about all of the twist out. There’s about 2 square inches near the pack of the plane that have about 0.001” from the surface plate. But given I was out of paper I tried it ant for the time being it seems to have fixed my issues.

-- "If you wait for it to rain, It will"

View fuigb's profile


515 posts in 3133 days

#12 posted 11-29-2014 10:33 PM

As suggested, a flat surface found on a table saw can work. In my case I used the bed of a Rigid jointer and a belt from a sander.

-- - Crud. Go tell your mother that I need a Band-aid.

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