R4511 Fence Upgrade to Delta T2- using origional front rail

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by iamwelty posted 11-28-2014 03:04 PM 930 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View iamwelty's profile


259 posts in 3144 days

11-28-2014 03:04 PM

I realize that this was a popular subject a few years ago…

I was able to purchase a Delta T2 30 fence on Ebay at a super good price. The unit appears to be nearly new and I suspect it was a store return. So now I’m ready to upgrade the fence from the piece of crap original fence. From what I read, there are two options on installing the front tube. Option #1 is to use the new rails after re-drilling holes. With that option the fence tube sets a tad too high to use the miter gauge. Option #2 is to use the Ridgid original front rail and to shim the tube up from the original rail.

I’m wanting to do #2. Can anyone that has upgraded their R4511 in that fashion have any suggestions? What did you use to shim the tube and how high of a shim? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I can see it’s night and day difference in comparing the two fence systems!!

Thanks X10!

-- There is a fine line between eroticism and nausea...

2 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile


117128 posts in 3606 days

#1 posted 11-28-2014 04:49 PM

It might be hard to find anyone who has done this upgrade, given that this fence is usually close to the value of your saw when you pay retail for the fence. I hope you get it worked out.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View TheFridge's profile


9608 posts in 1515 days

#2 posted 11-28-2014 05:53 PM

Might have to notch the rail. I had to do it on my craftsman when I got my saw stop fence. Had to drill new holes too. Regardless, your gonna have to drill new holes in your saw and notch the rail where the miter slots are ,unless the slots in your ridgid are the same distance away from the blade, on both sides, as a delta to which it was designed for.

These fences are interchangeable, because the miter slots may not be the same distance away from the blade, but 3/8” depth is pretty much standard. You just have to set it up to where the fence head has the same distance between it and the table at the front and the back of the head.

Make sure you put a straight edge left to right on your table, at the front and the back before your drill. I didn’t and I bloted the rails on and found out my table was warped and had to waddle out the new holes so I could get the rails to straighten out the table to flat.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics