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Delta unisaw X5 buzzing

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Forum topic by Jim posted 11-26-2014 04:54 AM 1318 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jim

14 posts in 1324 days


11-26-2014 04:54 AM

Topic tags/keywords: delta unisaw x5 electric motor

Please Help! I moved my Delta Unisaw X5 that was workin fine before I moved and now it just makes a buzzing noise at the start switch box. Any ideas where I should start?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks, Jim

-- Jim


18 replies so far

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

2189 posts in 1490 days


#1 posted 11-26-2014 05:05 AM

Start capacitor.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1185 days


#2 posted 11-26-2014 05:20 AM

Maybe a wire has fallen off. The buzzing is likely the contactor, working correctly all A/C powered contactor will make a little noise drown out by whatever equipment is being run. If it’s very loud, then it’s more serious. I would start by checking all connections in the motor starter box.

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Jim

14 posts in 1324 days


#3 posted 11-26-2014 06:55 AM

Thanks!
I checked all wire connections at switch and everything looks good there. The buzzing is only when holding the start switch.

Does anyone know how many capacitors are on this motor? If you look at the attached photo it looks like there might be two if them. Where can you get new ones at a reasonable price?

Thanks for all of your help.

!http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/govnor/image-6.jpg

-- Jim

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3942 posts in 1958 days


#4 posted 11-26-2014 12:30 PM

It will have 2 capacitors, generally the one that’s bad is the one that stinks, and sometimes has an oily goo leaking out of it. Capacitors can be bought anywhere, and they are not expensive (up to maybe $25, as low as $1`0). but your best bet may be a motor shop. Seems like when my Unisaw blew the start cap, the shop had to look for one that was a similar size. There is another possibility, the motor has a centrifugal switch that sometimes needs the dust blown out (in the motor). If your unsure of how to go about this, maybe removing the motor (ugh!, it’s heavy…fair warning) and taking it to the aforementioned shop would be best.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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verdesardog

137 posts in 2076 days


#5 posted 11-26-2014 02:19 PM

Clean everything up including the motor and start controller and see if that fixes the problem.

-- .. heyoka ..

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1185 days


#6 posted 11-26-2014 02:38 PM

Do you get only the buzzing from the start box? Is there any humming noise coming from the motor at all? If the motor is making zero noise, it’s likely there is an open in the circuit somewhere. Usually when a start capacitor fails, the current is still getting to the motor an causing it to make a little humming noise, only without any movement.

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NoThanks

798 posts in 994 days


#7 posted 11-26-2014 03:07 PM

NOT being an electrician, is it 220? Did you move it to a different receptacle? Is the saw getting 220?, maybe only one leg is hot? Don’t know just trying to help troubleshoot.

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

View Jim's profile

Jim

14 posts in 1324 days


#8 posted 11-26-2014 03:13 PM

The buzzing is only coming from the start box. Motor doesn’t make a sound at all.

Thanks to all for all of your help!

-- Jim

View bonesbr549's profile

bonesbr549

1176 posts in 2532 days


#9 posted 11-26-2014 04:01 PM

Are all the leads down tight. could be a bad contactor. Have you put a meter on the L1 & L2 to make sure you have power in and out and at the motor starter?

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

View muleskinner's profile

muleskinner

881 posts in 1901 days


#10 posted 11-26-2014 04:34 PM

Sounds like you need to take your contactor apart and blow it out and make sure something didn’t get jostled during your move and is preventing it from closing completely. Check with an ohmmeter across the seal in contact (17 maybe) to make sure it’s closing when the contactor is pushed in.

-- Visualize whirled peas

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Jim

14 posts in 1324 days


#11 posted 11-26-2014 06:04 PM

Well….. After reading all of your posts, I thought I would check how the electrician wired the box. Of course, it was only 120 volts! Off to the store to find a breaker, thanks for all of your help guys!
I appreciate it all :-)

-- Jim

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5179 posts in 2659 days


#12 posted 11-26-2014 06:06 PM

Are you sure there’s not a bee trapped in there, or a mosquita….? Just japein’ ya…..Sounds like you got some good advice from up above….I have nothing further to add at this time…...You ‘ve got plenty of help…....!!!!!!

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

View NoThanks's profile

NoThanks

798 posts in 994 days


#13 posted 11-26-2014 06:20 PM


NOT being an electrician, is it 220? Did you move it to a different receptacle? Is the saw getting 220?, maybe only one leg is hot? Don t know just trying to help troubleshoot.

- Iwud4u

BINGO :)
(ben der dun dat)

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3942 posts in 1958 days


#14 posted 11-26-2014 07:05 PM



Well….. After reading all of your posts, I thought I would check how the electrician wired the box. Of course, it was only 120 volts! Off to the store to find a breaker, thanks for all of your help guys!
I appreciate it all :-)

- Jim

Sounds like some of the “electricians” around me.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View rick1955's profile

rick1955

258 posts in 896 days


#15 posted 11-26-2014 07:37 PM

I had that that problem once. The electro magnet was weak. I put some electrical tape to move the contractor a bit closer and it fixed the problem. You should be able to push the contactor in manually and motor should start.

-- Working smarter with less tools is a true crafts person...

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