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drawer face joinery - wood movement

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Forum topic by Vjeko posted 02-15-2009 06:22 PM 913 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Vjeko

135 posts in 2876 days


02-15-2009 06:22 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I’m planning some loose tenon doors (modern flat frame/panel look).
The frame will be hardwood, the panels either hardwood or plywood.

I’d like the drawer faces to be of hardwood and to mimick the door
look i.e. vertical oriented pieces of hardwood (frame) on either side of a horizontal
piece of glued up hardwood panel .

How do I make such a drawer face taking wood movement
into consideration ?

-- Vjeko Balas - Croatia


5 replies so far

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childress

841 posts in 3003 days


#1 posted 02-15-2009 07:30 PM

What Kind of wood are you using?

Are you goin to have a frace frame?

If so, are you mounting on top of the face frame or inside?

But basically, you will need to make them the same as the doors, and I would recommend plywood, if doing flat panels, and glue the plywood to the rails and stiles of the door frame. If the rails and stiles are standard sizes, like, 2 1/4” then movement will be minimal.

-- Childress Woodworks

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Vjeko

135 posts in 2876 days


#2 posted 02-15-2009 09:20 PM

childress,
The doors/drawers are going on euro style cabinets (no face frame).

As far as type of hardwood, I haven’t decided yet (at the moment I don’t have
the experience to choose one from perspective of what would be better but
just on aesthetics) was thinking of beech, larch, ash, (cherry more expensive).

I didn’t get your point about gluing the plywood panel in the rails/stiles -
the rails/stiles will be slotted including the panel and will be held together
via the loose tenons – I thought the panel should be left floating (or is this
only for the case the panel is of solid wood ?)

Now regarding the drawer face, as it’s surface area is much smaller than the door,
if made with a panel,the panel would be extremely small, so from an aesthetics point of view
(as I saw one kitchen in a showroom). I wanted to make only stiles of hardwood
and a body of hardwood in between but was worried about wood movement
with the woodgrain of stiles and center piece being perpendicular to one another
- were you suggesting a plywood panel in the middle and basically “edgebanding”
the stiles ?

Is there a way of actually using wood for the stiles and center piece ?

-- Vjeko Balas - Croatia

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childress

841 posts in 3003 days


#3 posted 02-16-2009 01:59 AM

First, When making a door, the way I and most everybody here in the states do, where you have stiles (vertical pieces) and rails (horizontal pieces) and a panel. It’s five pieces, right. The stiles and rails have a groove in the inside edge to acommodate the panel and can be joined to each other by either loose tenons like you say, full mortise and tenon, stub tenon, or cope and stick (which is basically a stub tenon with a detail), bridle joint..etc…. you get my point. The panel only need to be floating if it’s solid wood. If you use plywood, say 1/4” to fit into the 1/4” grooves then you can glue them in as the plywood won’t move like solid hardwood. If it’s going to be painted, you can use MDF and glue it in. Those last two options will give you a recessed panel. Using solid wood you can make a raised panel.

Second, when making a drawer face to match, you are right about the size. you can acommodate that by using smaller stiles and rails. With a door, you can use a stile/rail thats anywhere from 2 to 2 1/2” (or even bigger depending on the look you want). With the drawer fronts, you can make them samller, like 1 1/2”. If the drawer fronts are too small for that, then you can make them solid, or if I understand you correctly, you want to make them similar, but use solid wood pieces instead of a panel in the middle? Then making them like a breadboard is probably your best bet.

I hope I’m describing this okay for you, if you want to PM me I can try to explain better..

-- Childress Woodworks

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childress

841 posts in 3003 days


#4 posted 02-16-2009 02:01 AM

By the way, as far as movement is concerned. If doing euro style where the doors and drawers meet each other, giving them 1/8” space should be good enough.

-- Childress Woodworks

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Vjeko

135 posts in 2876 days


#5 posted 02-16-2009 12:40 PM

Your description is much appreciated ! I feel like I have just peeked under a table
and hit my head into the breadboard end ;) Didn’t have knowledge about it/nor what it was
called, but now I’ve readup and understand the basics/how to handle this situation/woodmovement.
Thanks a lot !

-- Vjeko Balas - Croatia

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