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Forum topic by haleswd posted 11-24-2014 01:53 PM 1520 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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haleswd

4 posts in 752 days


11-24-2014 01:53 PM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw table saw top cast iron wax cast iron rust minwax

I just got a new table saw, which I have not even had a chance to use. I built a garage and am waiting for it to get wired. I used Bostik Glide Cote and then I used Minwax Finish Wax on the table saw. I thought sure that the top would not rust. Well, it has been sitting for 2 weeks, and now look at it. I need advice, what should I do. Scotch-brite pad to remove rust, but what should I put on it. I’m desperate. Please help.


13 replies so far

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1625 posts in 2101 days


#1 posted 11-24-2014 01:56 PM

Johnson’s paste wax has never let me down.

View TheWoodenOyster's profile

TheWoodenOyster

1275 posts in 1403 days


#2 posted 11-24-2014 02:00 PM

Ditto on the Johnson’s paste wax. It looks like something has been dripping on it..? Any water that I get on my cast iron tops does typically turn into small rust spots, even when waxed. I expect that the hard core space shuttle lube stuff will stop even puddles of water from causing rust, but I haven’t needed anything like that yet. The paste wax does keep the condensation and humidity at bay though. For the record, I am in North Texas with what I would call average humidity.

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

View UpstateNYdude's profile

UpstateNYdude

704 posts in 1451 days


#3 posted 11-24-2014 02:00 PM

I use Boeshield T-9 and then Trewax clear paste wax

-- Nick, "Choking to death on bacon is like getting murdered by your lover." - JG

View Bill7255's profile

Bill7255

354 posts in 1753 days


#4 posted 11-24-2014 02:05 PM

When I put my tools in storage I used Johnsons paste wax and then coated them with the liquid wrench white lithium spray grease. Worked well and nothing rusted. The spray is about $5 a can at lowes and is not difficult to remove when ready.

-- Bill R

View gtbuzz's profile

gtbuzz

427 posts in 1909 days


#5 posted 11-24-2014 02:36 PM

Yikes, sorry to see that. It really looks like something splashed on it and was allowed to sit. If that’s the case I don’t think any of the tips people have provided will guard against that.

My process is Boeshield T-9. I let that sit overnight and then wipe off the sticky residue. Then follow it up with Johnson’s paste wax. Since I started that regiment, I haven’t had a problem with CI tools that sit in the garage in Atlanta.

I’ll put on a fresh coat of wax every month or two depending on how often I use them. Once a year, I’ll strip everything down with denatured alcohol and do the whole process again.

View haleswd's profile

haleswd

4 posts in 752 days


#6 posted 11-24-2014 02:46 PM

Thanks for the replies guys. I really don’t think anything splashed on it, but maybe it did. It is in an uninsulated metal garage, and it has been raining. Maybe high humidity? I would have thought Minwax Finish Wax would have worked, but maybe not. I had some on hand. I just ordered Boeshield T-9 and Johnsons Paste Wax. That seems to be a recurring combination. I think I am going to wet the table with diesel and then put a scotch-brite pad under my random orbit palm sander. I think that should take off all of this surface rust. Then I will try to rust proof again. Wish me luck.

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 1837 days


#7 posted 11-24-2014 02:56 PM

The high humidity and lack of insulation could be the culprit. What does the ceiling look like? The temperature swings could be causing the moisture to accumulate and then drip down. Not sure what the weathers been like in Alabama lately, but when I was in college in upstate NY we could steam up the showers, whip all the windows open and get it to snow indoors. A bit extreme, but you get the point.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4037 posts in 1819 days


#8 posted 11-24-2014 03:00 PM

It looks to me like you are getting condensation drips on the saw. I would remove the rust then paste wax and then cover it with something until you get the condensation problem fixed. Steel buildings are notorious for condensation.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View haleswd's profile

haleswd

4 posts in 752 days


#9 posted 11-24-2014 03:10 PM

The entire building is sheet metal, 28 gauge I think, with aluminum studs. 25’ x 40’ I thought condensation may be the issue, but it would have to be heated for condensation to be a problem. Wouldn’t it? Like when a warm room has and glass of ice water. The temperature difference causes condensation. I have not seen any moisture on anything else. Over the past week it has been raining and unseasonable cold. I guess I need to get a process in place to cover all of the cast iron surfaces when I am not in the shop.

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 1837 days


#10 posted 11-24-2014 03:21 PM

It does not require heat in contact with cold. The condensation is a consequence of the dew point, which factors in temperature, relative humidity, and air pressure. If you have rain and/or warm humid air, when that air cools later on in the day, or overnight, the dew point drops and the moistures starts accumulating on things. In other words, it’s not about having something cold in contact with something hot, it’s the result of the humid air and the daily temperature fluctuations. Same reason when you go camping, things are damp in the morning (well, unless you wet the sleeping bag).

Edit : The sheet metal doesn’t help either, as it stays cooler longer than the air. So, in the morning when the air heats up, it meets the cooler sheet metal and can cause more condensation, as Bondo pointed out.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View haleswd's profile

haleswd

4 posts in 752 days


#11 posted 11-24-2014 03:33 PM

Thanks for the info BinghamtonEd. I plan to insulate it, but having spent a substantial amount of money building it over the past month I can’t afford the insulation just yet, which would be expensive. Until then I guess I will just have to cover.

View oldretiredjim's profile

oldretiredjim

203 posts in 1853 days


#12 posted 11-24-2014 03:39 PM

I get rust off with liquid wrench and 220 grit sand paper. The liquid wrench will lift the rust out of the pores if it sits for 20 – 30 minutes. The sand paper completes the job.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4247 posts in 1667 days


#13 posted 11-24-2014 03:43 PM

Clean up the rust, give it a good wax and then cover it with a breathable cover such as a cotton sheet, packing blanket, etc.. And an FYI for those using T-9.. it’s basically just paraffin in mineral spirits along with a little mineral oil added for good measure.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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