alternative to glueing

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Forum topic by Vjeko posted 02-14-2009 10:56 AM 1404 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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135 posts in 3442 days

02-14-2009 10:56 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I got no feedback in the design forum, so I’ve reworded and
posted here:

I’m planning a builtin similar to the one on the attached photo
I saw on the web.

When you look into the builtin where the door is open there
is a piece of wood at the ceiling and floor levels between
the vertical sides. I plan to attach these pieces
to the vertical sides with pocket hole joinery.

My problem is that I have heating piping in the floor and can’t
screw the wood down to the floor and am not sure of an alternative
eg what sort of glue (floor is covered with porcelain tiles).

-- Vjeko Balas - Croatia

10 replies so far

View mrtrim's profile


1696 posts in 3908 days

#1 posted 02-14-2009 12:36 PM

View cabinetmaster's profile


10874 posts in 3586 days

#2 posted 02-14-2009 03:54 PM

Why fasten to the floor? We build all our cabinets with nailers in the back that we attach to the studs with 3” screws. Put one in the top and bottom of the cabinet and you will not have a need to attach to the floor.

-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps

View Don Butler's profile

Don Butler

1092 posts in 3423 days

#3 posted 02-14-2009 10:27 PM

Gravity is a good thing to fasten cabinets to the floor!


-- No trees were damaged in posting this message, but thousands of electrons were seriously inconvenienced.

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

8901 posts in 4127 days

#4 posted 02-14-2009 10:37 PM

I am a big fan of 5 minute epoxy and hot glue guns. Hot glue is thick and will leave a gap if you try to use it on miters but I use it often for trim in places that I cannot nail to the wall.

I trust construction adhesive for glueing trim on as well, but I have to place some dots of hot glue to get the trim to stay in place until the construction adhesive cures.

I would lean towards the 5 minute epoxy or hot glue if I am understanding your needs on this project.

I do not necessarily screw cabinets to the floor for install. On a big built-in as seen in the link, I might screw through the sides to attach it to the vertical framing.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana,

View UVA's profile


16 posts in 3436 days

#5 posted 02-14-2009 11:22 PM

I construct built-ins differently than shown in the photo. I build a box of 3/4” plywood – top, sides and bottom – with a back of 1/4” plywood or 1/2” ship lapped boards. I make it about 1/2” less in overall size than the opening dimensions. I do as much of the box internals before hand as well. I slide the box into the opening, use shims to get it level and use 3” screws to fasten it to studs in the walls. Then i custom fit the face frame to the opening and pocket screw the face frame to the box. Doing all the internal construction in the shop and sliding the box into place is much easier overall. If one box is to large to handle, then make two boxes and fasten the two boxes together after you slide them into place. This method does not require fastening anything to a tile floor which I would advise against in case you ever want to replace the tile or work on the built in again.

Also, I make the face frame in the shop and dry fit it carefully to the opening. I use the finished face frame to make the doors and fit them to the face frame and fit the door hinges, handles and stops with the frame frame lying flat in the shop. That is so much easier than trying to fit doors and hardware to a face frame that is vertical. I remove the doors from the face frame, fasten it to the boxes and reattach the doors and hardware.

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

8901 posts in 4127 days

#6 posted 02-15-2009 12:04 AM

I do my built-ins just like UVA. He has an accurate description of the process.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana,

View Vjeko's profile


135 posts in 3442 days

#7 posted 02-15-2009 11:49 AM

Appreciate all the feedback ! I see I can take either the glue or screw to side/back road and will figure this into the solution but have a few questions regarding your comments:

cabinetmaster – I’m not 100% up with all the names of parts – can you clarify what is a “nailer”/where and how is it attached (it sounds like some sort of batten attached from behind and screwed from the front into the wall ?)

bentlyj – my idea was not cover the wall,ceiling or floor (one reason being humidity/brick walls/concrete ceiling prone to condensation) so it’s basically edged plywood sheets with euro style hinges. The sheets are to be screwed to vertical battens at the back on the wall but then on the front I was going to use the two pieces of trim at ceiling and floor level.

UVA – I will need something similar to your idea in another builtin. Could you clarify:
- What are 1/2” ship lapped boards ?
- The 3” screws – where do you place them / do you cover the holes in any way ?
- What sort of joinery for the cabinets ?
- What sort of joinery for the back ?

-- Vjeko Balas - Croatia

View Moron's profile


5032 posts in 3921 days

#8 posted 02-15-2009 02:52 PM

screw it to the wall and dont worry about the floor

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View dennis mitchell's profile

dennis mitchell

3994 posts in 4342 days

#9 posted 02-15-2009 04:24 PM

Here is another alternative. Don’t use a bottom rail at all.

View Vjeko's profile


135 posts in 3442 days

#10 posted 02-15-2009 06:00 PM

Dennis and Roman, are you figuring on a fixed shelf (in addition to screwing the sides via battens to wall) keeping the construction stiff/vertical or ?

(it’s only this stiffness/lack of it I’m worried about – I don’t want to get to the point where I’m almost finished to find the builtin sides are flexing and I need to conjure up a fix for it)

-- Vjeko Balas - Croatia

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