Cutting or Routing a channel into a dowel

Make a “cradle” for the sticks and run your router in a track above it.

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

Don’t know how thick is the stick , but I would suggest to make a jig piece with an “U” profile where you can secure temporalirly the stick (inside the “U’), perhaps drilling and setting several pins to keep the stick spinning….....the channel could be made in a router table. My two cents

-- Francisco Luna, San Francisco Bay Area.

I could doodle something up if you want.

How big is the dowel and do you have a router table?

-- Until you spread your wings, you'll have no idea how far you can walk.

Get two straingt boards, lets say 1×4.

Cut two pieces about 2 inches so you end up with two pieces 1×4 x 2.

Drill a hole the same size as the sticks. The sticks should fit snugly in these holes.

Take two other pieces of 1×4 as long as the sticks. Make a box using the small 2 inch pieces as the ends of the box. Put a straight edge guide on the router, but the router on the box, adjust the fence and depth and cut your dado.

I can email you a sketch-up diagram but can’t post

-- Regards, Rob

Screw your dowell in between to boards, add a side and run thru your table saw. Dadoe blade or several passes with a regular blade.

Or use that same idea on a router table. Add an additional screw or nail in one end to prevent it from turning.

-- Until you spread your wings, you'll have no idea how far you can walk.

Does it have to be a dowel? could you just use a small board and route a channel in it? Then round over the edges with the router.

-- San Diego, CA US Navy

-- Regards, Rob

Trick question, right?

A couple guys on here have mucho jigmojo – one was ripping ridiculously thin slices off material using a channel thingy. I submit the same kind of device could be used to rip a section off a dowel, if the channel iis either U or V shaped. You’ll want a little longer dowel than you need, and secure it to the jig. Kinda like the box thingy above only instead of cradling the dowel in the jig, hold it down on the table.

I would think a featherboard over the fence to hold the material down onto the table surface, and another to keep material on the fence (horizontal) would let you push a dowel secured to scrap at the back end through safely. You’d need to stop the rip before the “attach” reaches the blade.

Why does this have to be a dowel instead of a 1×2 or a square though..? Sometimes picking the right battle is the better part of valor.. or summat like that!

We’ve had a rash of bad accidents among Lumberjocks this past few days. Keep in mind that a “hurry up” situation is often associated with accidents. I have nothing against any of the suggestions here, but if the set-up that you choose creates some uncomfortable doubt in your mind – don’t do it.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

“Why does this have to be a dowel instead of a 1×2 or a square though..?”

The reason for the dowel or round blank to be more precise, is because I do not have a lathe capable of handling the length that I need. The sticks must be between 42 and 48 inches. I have made several attempts at making the sticks in 2 pieces then joining them together. The biggest problem being that the stick of course breaks or deforms at or around the joint. I have used many different methods to join the two pieces, but it still happens.

The stick is often used to knock or beat down brier’s or other small vegetation while trying to get to a victim. So far only a single stick design with not joints is strong enough to stand up to the punishment inflicted on these sticks. All my problems would be solved if I had a lathe capable of turning a single piece 48 inches in length. Then I would just simply use a square pieces, cut the channel with a dado blade, then turn it on the lathe.

The ideas left so far have been good, and I had already been thinking along the same lines as some of the suggestions. I did not post if I had a router table or other tools, since I wanted to see just what ideas I would get.

I thank all of you for taking the time to post your ideas, and I can tell you that once I have chosen one or a variation I will post the entire thing as a project.

-- The Man in the Can, Craig M. North Carolina

Craig,

One last idea borrowed from my boat building site. Get some 2 oz fiberglass sheet and epoxy.
This is the stuff used to make surf boards, and in “Stich & Glue” boat building.

Adhere the self stik ruler tape to the dowel, then wrap in fiberglass and coat with epoxy.

The fiberglass becomes transparent. Sand the overlap smooth. These should be very sturdy, and easy to produce in quantity. You may be able to double wrap and still read the tape – experiment.

Good luck.

Rob

-- Regards, Rob

You don’t say what diameter of dowel you want. I would make a square stick and plough the channel for the tape. If you want a 1” dowel use a 1” square stick, then use a router table with a 1/2” radius cutter to round off the stick making a dowel. The trick to this is to leave a couple of inches of square at each end to keep you straight. So a 48” long dowel would start out as a 52” long stick. Install your tape and wrap the stick in clear packing tape to protect the measuring tape.

-- mike, www.schoolofwood.com

OK. As far as diameter, the sticks or dowels are either 3/4 or 1 inch. It depends on what the user wants. But the specifications set down by NASAR, which is the governing body of search and rescue dictates the diameters and lengths.
I have tried an ash straight rake handle which about an inch in diameter and using a draw knife shave it down and finish it by sanding. But the trouble always comes from the measuring tape. When it is not recessed into the stick, it leaves a ridge on either side of the tape that wears quickly and makes the stick useless.
So, I thought I would hit you guys up for ideas for making the slot, groove, dado, what ever you want to call it. And you guys have not let me down. In fact I am trying to find a supplier for the fiberglass suggested by Rob.
But do not stop. If you have any other ideas or things that you think might help, then please continue to post them.

Requirements
Must be:

between 42 and 48 inches in overall length
3/4 to 1 inch diameter
withstand extreme weather and treatment
be able to stick it into the ground allowing it to stand on its own
non conductive
no metal other than at bottom tip
uses: measure foot prints, stride, to beat down brush, self defense, and to aid in walking/climbing.

There are other things, but listing these and the other specs will probably raise way to many questions. I am mainly looking to handle the measuring tape problem as I have the others pretty much taken care of.

I am currently leaning toward the fiberglass idea, since there are other markings and stuff that really are easier on the lathe. The fiberglass would allow me to part the sticks, do all the other work, then join them and fiberglass them so the joint will not be a real concern any longer.

Keep the ideas coming!

-- The Man in the Can, Craig M. North Carolina

Lots of good ideas above for routing or cutting the groove for the tape. And for finishing, how about pondering this…

Break the tracking stick in two pieces for easier storage. Use billiard cue threaded joints to join the parts for use in the field. You can find composite (instead of metal) joints at cuestik.com. Once the tape is adhered to the stick, try clear heat-shrink tubing to secure it all and protect the tape from damage. Fiberglass tape and epoxy will make it darn near firefighter proof and still leave the markings on the stick visible.

Good luck to you and thanks for all your work!

-- IAFF L2737 Cortland NY

Do it carefully.

-- Just 'cause a cat has kittens in the oven, it don't make 'em biscuits.

So when you are doing this measuring, what is the smallest measurement? are we talking 1/4” are is 1” increments small enough.

Instead of installing a tape measure to the side, or into a groove, why not do like I do on a set of post hole diggers, I just took a triangle file and scored marks in the handles at set depths I wanted, 16” 24” 36”.

You could do the same thing on 1” x 2” x 42” stick or on a tree limb, you’ll never have to worry about wearing the grooves off, unless you really start whacking those bears with it. The grooves you file into whatever you use could be 1/8” deep or greater depending on what you use.

-- James

I like useing a v shaped craddle and stick it in place with turners tape. The use the router to cut the grove.

Why not just measure with a yard stick? <g>

-- - Please help keep Lumberjocks an enjoyable escape by refusing to participate in political discussions. Simply spit out the bait and ignore the thread...

If I had to make a bunch of these in a hurry, I would make a simple jig like so(Nice Sketch Up, eh LOL) Just build up the “cradle” with 3/4” plywood for one size, a couple of 1/2” for the other. Place the piece in the cradle, and keep it from spinning by the simple expedient of attaching layed-down parallel clamps to either end. With a fence attached for a router these could be turned out all day exactly alike. They would have to be a little over long, of course and then cut down to length…Thanks to my Dad for showing me how to deal with round stock with clamps!!

-- Mike in Manchester, NH---Unpleasant tasks are simply worthy challenges to improve skills.