|Forum topic by dbargaehr||posted 11-06-2014 11:12 PM||899 views||0 times favorited||3 replies|
11-06-2014 11:12 PM
Ahoy there, first-time poster and amateur in every sense of the word.
Working on a modern-type table for Thanksgiving for our small house, and trying to get it finished by then since we need to seat quite a few people. The table top is essentially finished (got some 3/4 poplar on the cheap, tried for a better wood but couldn’t find any within our budget, so I just biscuited it together), and I’m trying to work out how to attach the legs. The tabletop is very large – 54” wide by 96” long!
Legs are dimensional 4×4, I tried to find cedar but couldn’t get any on the cheap in SoCal, so I’m running redwood. Got the joints worked out (lag bolts from top/bottom) for the 4 corners, decent-sized glued dowels for the crossbeams (running longways) so they look clean from the outside. I thought about Kreg pocket holes for those crossbeams, but decided against it.
My dilemma is attaching the table legs to the top in a secure manner. The tabletop is only 3/4, and I’d like to avoid going in from the top if possible to keep the top as clean as possible (no screw tops or plugs to cover them on the top of the table).
I was thinking going from the bottom with some 3 3/4 screws (countersunk about 1/8”, perhaps) but I’m worried it won’t hold well to the tabletop with about 1/2” of screw in the tabletop. I also thought about Kreg pocket holes running on the inside of each table support, but have the same dilemma (as well as not being fond of the look of pocket holes. I know they would be almost unseen from most angles, but I’d prefer not to have them at all).
Any ideas to attach these legs to the tabletop cleanly? I’m open to suggestion. Tools include router, table saw, radial arm saw, jig saw…I’m not incredibly well-stocked, but I’ve done ok with what I’ve got.
As far as modifying the design, I’m semi-open to that as well. There is some mild cupping on the finished tabletop, mostly from the boards having a bit of cupping already, as well as the sheer weight of the table. Given the weight of it, the 4×4 seemed prudent, and using the lengthwise crossbeam as well as the full-length supports seemed like a good way to straighten out the top enough when it’s all assembled.