gluing plinth and ceiling trim

  • Advertise with us

« back to Designing Woodworking Projects forum

Forum topic by Vjeko posted 02-12-2009 06:11 PM 1083 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Vjeko's profile


135 posts in 2835 days

02-12-2009 06:11 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question modern

I’m trying to work out a few details for a future builtin project

Here’s how the project looks (see picture below of something
I saw on the web which is similar to what I’d like to make –
ofcourse don’t expect something of that level of finish from me;) ):
Rather than making cabinets, the builtin will be made
of plywood sides fixed at back by vertical battens
screwed to the wall.I’m thinking of having a few fixed shelves
to stiffen the construction. At the front,
at ceiling level there will be trim and a plinth (hope this is the right word)at floor level
(both assisting to keep the sides vertical and surface for door closing) I was thinking of
using pocket hole joinery to screw them to the sides from inside.

What I’m not sure about:
I think it would be good to have the ceiling trim and plinth
also secured to the ceiling and floor respectively (maybe not necessary ?)
In case they need to be secured, I was thinking of using glue
as there are hydronic heating/pipes in my floor so I cannot drill deep
(absolute max depth would be tile thickness eg 1cm for some stops – to avoid a catastrophy ;) .
I may be able to make some shallow holes in the painted concrete ceiling.
Any ideas / what type of glue /means of attaching?

I can’t see behind the doors in the picture but I guess a single sheet
of 20mm plywood will be solid enough for each divider/side ?

I’m not sure how many fixed shelves are needed – anyone with
experience can comment ?

-- Vjeko Balas - Croatia

4 replies so far

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5300 posts in 3133 days

#1 posted 06-06-2009 06:53 AM

The picture didn’t come through for me so I am not sure what your design looks like. Might it be better to design this piece as a ‘standalone’ piece that just looks like a built in? In other words build a cabinet that does not rely on the floor, walls or ceiling for support and just fits into the space as if it were a build in.

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

View Vjeko's profile


135 posts in 2835 days

#2 posted 06-06-2009 10:46 PM

Hi Mark,
Thanks for answering, it’s been a long time since I posted it/got no answer
but I still haven’t gone ahead with the
project as I had other things to do / getting the workshop/tools up and running.

Looks like I forgot the picture : – see fourth picture in top row.

Maybe I didn’t describe the project very well – we have a U shaped opening – wall
at left, wall at right (distance between the two cca 3m) and a wall in front of
us – we want a builtin with lets say 6 doors of .5m wide to fit in here).

The background to my a little unorthodox thoughts on the approach to cabinet making
for this project(not going for usual boxes) is the fact that the walls are not drywall but
brick and we get a variation in humidity from some 30% in summer to
over 70% in winter (yes, the dehumidifier is working then), so I
want the walls to be able to “breath” as much as possible i.e. no back
panels and as little as possible covering the side / any walls as there
is definitely a high probability of having problems with mould etc..

My initial idea was to have a narrow panel screwed to the left and right end walls
to hang these two doors and then hang the other four doors of
5 vertical panels which make up the rest of the cabinet between the left and
right wall. If I go with this idea, I need to fix the vertical panels somehow.
At the same time, I need to consider
the back wall and floor not being 100% plumb/scribing.

So I was thinking of scribing some battens to the back wall, screwing them to the
vertical panels from behind and then screwing through the battens from the front into
the back wall as a way to attach the vertical panels to the back wall This will not be enough to hold the
panels very rigidly,so between each pair of vertical panels I will add a set of drawers at the
floor level ,a plinth at ceiling level at the front and back and maybe some fixed shelf
(each of these screwed to the pair of vertical panels). The height of the cabinet is 3m,
so not sure if two vertical doors would be better (eg 2m and 1m) and a fixed shelf
at top of bottom door to help with door closing. The set of drawers could also have
a base with an edge on which the bottom door would close (each drawer base could be
scribed to floor).

Now additionally I have the limitation that I have floor heating / can’t drill into floor (set of drawers
can’t be fixed to the floor) and I have wiring in the concrete ceiling/can’t drill into ceiling- is it
enough if I attach a batten under each fixed shelves against the back wall and screw the batten
to the wall

Re-thinking, I guess I could make plywood or frame/panel or glued up wood
boxes (without backs) instead of just vertical panels and again scribe the battens
as described above.

Due to the possible problems with humidity, I think I will also need some air flow
through the cabinets – not sure what is most elegant to do to the doors
but still not allow insects etc. in (I was thinking of some routing/drilling in the
door front, a fine wire mesh at the back and again some wood wrilled/routed
on top so the mesh is not visible.

Hope this wasn’t too long/tiring – I guess my problem is that I like to plan a lot
and then do the work but have little experience and am hesitating a bit too much.

If you have alternative ideas, I would like to hear them as I have not done anything
like this before and am just guessing my ideas would be OK.


-- Vjeko Balas - Croatia

View a1Jim's profile


115177 posts in 2998 days

#3 posted 06-07-2009 12:47 AM

Hey Vjeko
I’m a little confused as to all the details but If I understand what your try to do, I think I would make a free standing cabinet attach the trim to the cabinet and use small trim to fill in the sides at the front, and if you still have gapes use some matching grout to fill the holes and in the back use shims and masonary fastners. If you can’t build flat to the floor make the base of the cabinet furniture style(with feet), this should help if you need ventilation below also. I hope I been of some help.

-- Custom furniture

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5300 posts in 3133 days

#4 posted 06-07-2009 09:23 PM

I would be concerned about the temperature variations and resultant condensation on that outside wall. Is it deep enough to sacrifice a bit of depth and vapour barrier and then insulate that wall? I suspect that any obstacles you put in front of that wall, without insulating it, will eventually get mildew or mold from the condensation. Once you’ve got it weatherproofed you should be able to build a standard three sided cabinet sitting on the floor.

My wife and I are looking at renovating the closet space in our house and I really like the cabinet in the picture you posted…its giving me a good idea of where I want the project to go. Thanks for the photo and inspiration!

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics