LumberJocks

Advice needed on bulk finishing of paneling

  • Advertise with us

« back to Finishing forum

Forum topic by tpcolson posted 10-31-2014 09:03 PM 1086 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View tpcolson's profile

tpcolson

5 posts in 1463 days


10-31-2014 09:03 PM

Topic tags/keywords: finish water based spray gun

I am faced (due to laziness and a disease called “Serial Home Renovator” ) with a rapid (very soon) requirement to complete a cabin renovation. My quickest and cheapest option to wrap this up is to go with el-cheapo pine tongue-and groove 6” planks (the kind typically used to dress up cheap rental cabins). El-cheapo implies not so much of a smooth, out of the lumber-yard door finish on the lumber.

Not having any desire or time at all to spend 1 minute (or hundreds of hours) prep-sanding hundreds of BF of pine planks, OR, between coat sandings…

What would your recommendations be for a quickie, looks good from a distance, finish strategy? I’m thinking a HVLP sprayer and a WB, like General Finish.

Can I do this with the wood vertical (on the wall) if I do thin-enough coats and dial in the nozzle size and gun pressure? Or even crazier, once they’re nailed to an a-frame ceiling?

What would be the best gun for this type of hair-brained scheme? I have a Dewalt 5-gallon compressor, 250 PSI. And a water separator!

I know you guys are perfectionists, but…this is a rustic cabin! IMHO putting a showroom-furniture looking finish on planking would actually look kinda silly among rough-hewn logs and beams. I’ve ruled out no finish at all, where I’ve seen that in the past looks pretty horrible after a year or 2 of fade.


10 replies so far

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

2852 posts in 1802 days


#1 posted 10-31-2014 09:21 PM

IMHO…spraying a water based finish on pine will be awful without sanding in between a coat or two. The first coat will raise the grain and result in a rough looking finish. At a minimum, I would spray, then sand and then put on two more coats. I am not a perfectionist but your plan seems pretty hare-brained unless you want a bad looking surface.

Sorry to give such a negative comment but you kind of asked for an opinion.

View tpcolson's profile

tpcolson

5 posts in 1463 days


#2 posted 10-31-2014 09:30 PM

yeah, I kinda asked for that. I generally feel like I need surgery on my wrists after an hour of sanding, and I’m not a fan of power sanding. Wonder if one of those pole sanders, like they use on sheetrock installs, would do the trick?

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

2542 posts in 1839 days


#3 posted 11-02-2014 07:30 AM

I like water based acrylic, semi gloss, for a natural finish. As any water based finish will, it raises the grain, but requires only minimal sanding to knock down the raised grain. The nice thing about is that it’s dry to the touch in about 29 minutes, can be recoated in an hour. I’d use a little 1/4 sheet sander with 120 paper. (Confession: I’m a lazy sander too).

As for spraying boards on the ceiling: better you than me!!

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

3546 posts in 2123 days


#4 posted 11-02-2014 09:48 AM

Finish it before you put it up if it’s not to late. Much easier.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View pauljuilleret's profile

pauljuilleret

98 posts in 1467 days


#5 posted 11-02-2014 09:41 AM

I agree with pre finishing it before installing it it’s easier and the other thing to consider is depending on the moisture content when it’s finished it could shrink allowing un finished areas in the toung and grove areas to show up that would then look like the Little Rascalls did it us older folks will remember them but fort me if at all possible finish it before hand if you don’t have an hvlp rig you can also use a short knap roller and strike it off with a good quality brush just defiz the roller first with some masking tape

View B's profile

B

137 posts in 1301 days


#6 posted 11-02-2014 10:41 PM

If you have the option of finishing the boards before you install them,you could nail together some sub-assemblies and run them through a wide belt drum sander. You could even use it with a high grit belt to sand between coats.I have seen people spray cabinets and wall panels after they were installed,but they did have a lot of overpsray and sanding was a pain.You could maybe take a 24”x24” panel and make 2 handles on the back of it,then attach some sandpaper to the front and use that as a large sanding block

-- A poor workman blames his tools. Mr.B, Ontario Canada - https://www.instagram.com/boysbeit/

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

116497 posts in 3391 days


#7 posted 11-02-2014 11:05 PM

By the time you buy the panels and finish you could just put the regular paneling since your not being fussy.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-32-sq-ft-Finished-Birch-Paneling-with-1-1-2-in-Round-Bead-8203610/203223540?N=5yc1vZbqpj

No painting no sanding,shoot up with finish nails.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2596 posts in 2110 days


#8 posted 11-02-2014 11:23 PM

Don’t know why you couldn’t use an ultra smooth roller and apply two or three coats to build up to a soft sheen.

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

1395 posts in 1803 days


#9 posted 11-03-2014 05:19 PM

I 2nd the idea of buying prefinished panels since you want quick and easy. If you want/need to go unfinished planks, you could probably do the whole thing w/o sanding. Alcohol dye (I use Transtint) could be sprayed and help with blotching. Shellac could be sprayed as the sealer & top coat. The shellac can be tinted with the Transtint dyes to even out color. The better the spray gun the better it will look – el cheapo guns probably won’t atomize well enough. If you’re doing a bathroom, the shellac could be top coated with about anything, and since the surface will be rough, it should hold the top coat ok.

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

4399 posts in 3556 days


#10 posted 11-03-2014 10:36 PM

Shoot the thing with Shellac
No issues with variation in absorbtion/blotching. And it will seal any sap left over.

Maybe after the surface is sealed, if you want more protection you can hit it with Poly, but no real need.

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com