Router Table Top

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Forum topic by EdsCustomWoodCrafts posted 10-31-2014 06:18 PM 1146 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View EdsCustomWoodCrafts's profile


778 posts in 1344 days

10-31-2014 06:18 PM

Hi everyone,

As you can probably see from my previous topics I’m building a a router cabinet and I need to find a good router table .. Right now I can’t afford to buy one so I’m hoping someone can provide a link or set of instructions that I can build my own….


Ps: I have a Ryobi 1.5 hp fixed base router

-- Thanks Ed “A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working. ~Author unknown”

5 replies so far

View jmartel's profile


7900 posts in 2151 days

#1 posted 10-31-2014 06:42 PM

I haven’t made it yet, but I have one of these plates that I will be putting into a sheet of melamine, with a supporting frame underneath it. And then I will be adding a couple sections of T-track for the fence. May put in a miter slot as well, haven’t decided yet.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View ChrisK's profile


1964 posts in 3082 days

#2 posted 10-31-2014 07:20 PM

3/4 to 1-1/2” of MDF covered in Formica. The MDF is pretty cheap and I got a clearance piece from HD. I have not put T-Slots or a miter channel in the top yet. Been using it for 10 years with no problems. I use quick clamps to hold feather boards and such. I banded with some Poplar to protect MDF.

Hung table off old table saw. Works and is easy to clean. Made my mount plate from some 1/2 or 3/8 Lexan sheet.

-- Chris K

View greg48's profile


601 posts in 2758 days

#3 posted 11-01-2014 09:11 PM

This is what I’ve been using for several years now.

The table top is two layers of 3/4” ply glued and screwed together. The bottom layer is cut out to house the router and the top layer is additionally routed out to provide as much vertical bit travel that is taken up by the plywood thickness. Use the router base plate to located the center and mounting screw locations. Be sure to countersink the flat head machine screws. Route two slots along the sides of the table 3/8” wide and thru the top layer of ply, the second routed channel in the same location but only deep enough to pass along the head I’d the carriage bolt beneath the top table layer.
I used oak veneered plywood because it was handy, but a melamine surfaced mdf should be ok with adequate support beneath the table. I’m not so sure the mdf would hold up with the carriage bolt fence hold downs that I have used here.

The fence is likewise built from laminated plywood strips with elongated holes to accept the carriage bolt coming up from the table slots. In this pic, I have added a piece of clean ply the fence face to mark bit limits for blind routing so you may have to imagine the 2” wide fence behind it,

-- Greg, No. Cal. - "Gaudete in Domino Semper"

View MT_Stringer's profile


3168 posts in 3232 days

#4 posted 11-01-2014 10:45 PM

Check out Steve Ramsey on You Tube. He built a table, fence and cabinet. You can do it!

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View realcowtown_eric's profile


609 posts in 1938 days

#5 posted 11-01-2014 11:49 PM

most TS mfgrs now have cast iron table saw extensions that accommodate routers.

Totally cost effective.

Two layers of 3/4” ply are gonna limit how high you can raise your router bit.

Bonus is that it lets you use your existing fence as well.


-- Real_cowtown_eric

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