Which shellac to use?

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Forum topic by MrRon posted 10-29-2014 10:58 PM 803 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3898 posts in 2666 days

10-29-2014 10:58 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

A jock recommended using a spray coat of shellac on cast iron surfaces to prevent rust. Which shellac do I use, wax or non wax type?

12 replies so far

View ralbuck's profile


1807 posts in 1689 days

#1 posted 10-29-2014 11:08 PM

Where I live winter humidity is a problem for cast iron machine tables and parts. I use a good paste wax and do it usually once a year or so and have no issues! It also helps the work to slide easier.

-- just rjR

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4408 posts in 3383 days

#2 posted 10-29-2014 11:19 PM

Gotta go with ralbuck. Paste wax for me, and I live in Mississippi. Do you want to now about humidity? :)


View mbs's profile


1601 posts in 2363 days

#3 posted 10-30-2014 12:32 AM

Me too.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

View oltexasboy1's profile


240 posts in 1127 days

#4 posted 10-30-2014 12:52 AM

I also live on the gulf coast and wax is what I use.(obviously in Tex.)

-- "The pursuit of perfection often yields excellence"

View ElChe's profile


630 posts in 759 days

#5 posted 10-30-2014 01:03 AM

Wax on wax off. :)

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

View Charlie's profile


1100 posts in 1709 days

#6 posted 10-30-2014 10:21 AM

For long term storage (over winter… it gets c-o-l-d up here!) I spray with G96 Gun Treatment, let it sit about 15 or 20 minutes, wipe off whatever didn’t dry and then put a couple coats of Johnson’s Paste Wax over that.


Stuff Don’t Rust

View Fred Hargis's profile (online now)

Fred Hargis

3848 posts in 1916 days

#7 posted 10-30-2014 11:13 AM

If those cast iron surfaces have wood sliding across them, I doubt shellac is going to last very long at all. But for waxed versus de waxed, waxy shellac is only a problem when it’s going to be top coated with something that has urethane resins in it (urethanes have adhesion problems), and then only a “maybe”. So if you want to do this, I’d say use whatever you have…

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View OSU55's profile


1039 posts in 1412 days

#8 posted 10-30-2014 11:52 AM

Shellac is excellent for sealing a ferrous surface for rust protection, but I wouldn’t recommend it for sliding surfaces, such as a table saw top, except for long term storage. It would be great for any other surfaces. Waxed or dewaxed will work in this application. For an alternative, you could use Alox. I have a review for it on this site. For machine tops, use furniture wax w/o silicone.

View Earlextech's profile


1159 posts in 2113 days

#9 posted 10-30-2014 01:31 PM

Johnson’s Paste Wax!

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "Finished"!

View RRBOU's profile


136 posts in 1715 days

#10 posted 10-30-2014 02:29 PM

I bought into the shellac for cast also. Big mistake in my opinion. It took about a gallon of denatured alcohol to remove it. Nothing would slide after application, would leave black streaks on what ever you would slide over it also. I tried it with waxed and dewaxed shellac and waxed the surface after. Now I have gone back to just put wax on and have no problems.

-- If guns cause crime all of mine are defective Randy

View a1Jim's profile


115177 posts in 3000 days

#11 posted 10-30-2014 03:38 PM

Shellac is not a good barrier for moisture control on wood and I certainly would not use it on my equipment ,like the rest of the gang I use pase wax.

-- Custom furniture

View MrRon's profile


3898 posts in 2666 days

#12 posted 10-30-2014 04:28 PM

Thanks. I’ll stay with paste wax.

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