LumberJocks

G0690 vs. G1023 - riving knife/spreader and fence differences?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by ADHDan posted 10-28-2014 07:05 PM 4464 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1576 days


10-28-2014 07:05 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question table saw grizzly 690 1023

I’m kind of still deciding between two Grizzly table saws – the 690 vs. the 1023RLW – and I have a few questions about some differences between them. (I’m much more of a “learn by doing” type, so abstractly conceptualizing various mechanisms just by looking at the manuals is a little difficult for me.)

First, the 690 manual says that the spreader/riving knife can be swapped in and out from the top of the saw, while the 1023 manual says that you have to open the side panel to flip a quick-release lever. I would really prefer a top-access mechanism (having grown used to my R4512), and I was wondering whether there is any way to do this with the 1023.

Without seeing the saw itself, I can’t really tell exactly where the lever is located in relation to the throat; would it be possible for someone with fairly small hands to get to that lever from the top (by hand or with some sort of accessory)? If not, I probably would still make do with the 1023 because I really want the router table – but it would be a huge plus if I didn’t have to open the side panel to swap the spreader/knife.

Second, are there any other significant differences between the spreader and blade guard/riving knife setups on the two saws? From the photos, it doesn’t look like they use identical equipment but I can’t really tell how they actually might differ in terms of operation.

Third, do the 690 and 1023 come with the same fence? The Grizzly product description pages suggest they do, but I’ve read reviews where people have stated they prefer the 690 fence to the 1023 fence. Anyone know if they are the same or, if not, how they differ?

If you’re aware of any other material differences I’d love to hear about them, too. I did have an old thread on that topic, and nothing significant really came up tilting one way or the other.

Thanks!

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.


21 replies so far

View sawdustjunkie's profile

sawdustjunkie

343 posts in 1184 days


#1 posted 10-28-2014 08:43 PM

Fence is longer on the 690. 42” and the Riving knife pulls out from the top of the table. Takes 2 seconds to remove it. I think the riving knife comes out of the top on the RL’s as well.
Table top is the same size except for the router extension.
If the nickle test means anything, my 690 passes the test. There is very little if any vibration on either saw.
My saw came out of the box in perfect alignment except for the fence which took less than 2 min to align.

I have heard that some are complaining about the dust port on the blade schroud of the RL’s gets clogged, but on my 690, all the junk just falls into the bottom of the cabinet.
I would still suggest a stand alone router table, but that is your choice, not mine.

You will love either saw.

-- Steve: Franklin, WI

View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1576 days


#2 posted 10-28-2014 08:58 PM

It looks like the 1023RLW is also slightly smaller (in terms of width of table with extensions/rails) than the 690, is that accurate? My shop is only 11×17, and my R4512 is just about the perfect size to fit in it – so I don’t want to go much bigger than that, or else I won’t have room to maneuver it.

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

View sawdustjunkie's profile

sawdustjunkie

343 posts in 1184 days


#3 posted 10-28-2014 09:06 PM

The 690 front rail is 62” long and give you a 291/2” rip ability. You can move the rails to the right to go another 10” but I don’t see a need to do that at this time.
If you get the Shop Fox mobile base, you will be able to swing the saw in any direction to make it fit.
I bought the base and after putting the saw where I wanted it, I really don’t think I need it anymore.
The saw is just to heavy to try to take it off of the base.

-- Steve: Franklin, WI

View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1576 days


#4 posted 10-28-2014 09:08 PM

I don’t just need to make it fit, I need it to be generally mobile on a regular basis to move around the shop. Do you think that’s manageable with the Shop Fox base? I’m going to measure my R4512 (and take some side-to-side shop measurements) tonight to see if the “overall” 6” width difference between the 690 vs. 1023 will matter.

Thanks very much for all of your input. I appreciate it.

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

View sawdustjunkie's profile

sawdustjunkie

343 posts in 1184 days


#5 posted 10-28-2014 09:21 PM

The mobile base is just for that. You can turn the saw in a 360 degree circle if you want. The saws are very heavy, but move well with that base. Te base is very heavy duty.

I thought you already ordered the 1023 about a week or two ago.

If not you just might want to wait till November. That is when they usually have the 10% off deal going.
Mid November through Christmas.
That’s when I bought my band saw last year. I think it was around Nov 12th or so.

-- Steve: Franklin, WI

View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1576 days


#6 posted 10-28-2014 09:22 PM

You’re half right – I was going to order the 1023 last week, but then I found out that there are currently no coupons pending the November sale. So I was going to wait and see what happens in November, but as of today the G690 went on sale for $50 off – which made me revisit my previous decision (not just due to impatience, but maybe a little).

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1576 days


#7 posted 10-28-2014 09:25 PM

Also, which mobile base do you have? I’m torn between these two:

https://www.grizzly.com/products/D2057A
https://www.grizzly.com/products/D3757

The 2057 is what’s recommended for the saw, but the 3757 would be much easier to engage/disengage. I use a similar setup (with the Rockler retractable casters) for my workbench and I love them. I bolted a piece of angle iron to connect the casters, so I can just kick down in the middle of the iron to engage them, and I was thinking of doing the same thing if I get the 3757.

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

View sawdustjunkie's profile

sawdustjunkie

343 posts in 1184 days


#8 posted 10-28-2014 09:35 PM

I have the 2057A The D3775 won’t be heavy duty enough.
The saw weighs over 500# I don’t think you could just push down on a caster to engage it.
The D2057A will work just fine. Don’t over think what you want to do! You will be able to move either saw around just fine. I don’t even have the floor pads down on the base and the saw isn’t going anywhere.
I have only had the saw for a few weeks and have not posted a review of it so far, but will do so later, after I have had the saw for awhile.
I will say however, that if I were to make a purchase today, it would be another 690. I really like the saw and what it does for me.

-- Steve: Franklin, WI

View philba's profile

philba

96 posts in 839 days


#9 posted 10-29-2014 05:48 AM

I have a 1023rlw. You can pull the riving knife from the top – it’s a little tight but doable. I also have the saw on the shopfox mobile base 2057A. I have 5 other brands of mobile bases in my shop and the SF one is far and away the best. It’s beefy and rolling is totally smooth. Compared to the other bases I have, it totally rocks. I roll my saw multiple times a day and while it’s the heaviest tool in my shop, it is a breeze to move. Also, you can assemble the 2057A around the machine though the instructions for that are way over complicated. Just use your head and it’s pretty straight forward.

My only complaint about the G1023 is the dust collection. They say it has a 4 inch port but from the shroud to the port is a 2.5” tube. There is also an opening at the bottom of the cabinet that also goes into the 4 inch port but a lot of sawdust builds up in the bottom of the cabinet. Not a killer but I still have to open the door up and suck out the dust. Finally, the plastic 4 inch port is held onto the cabinet via 4 screws but the plastic port is pretty flimsy – I will be doing something there to beef it up. I guess it would be ok for a permanently attached DC hose but I move my DC from machine to machine as needed.

That said, I love my 1023. It’s a joy to use.

View BoardSMITH's profile

BoardSMITH

121 posts in 1731 days


#10 posted 10-29-2014 10:15 AM

I have both saws back-to-back in the shop. The 690 is crosscut only and the 1023 is rip only. Both perform well and I am very satisfied with the purchases.

The riving knife on the 690 is much easier to change. With the 1023 you must be a bit of a contortionist to work the clamp and lift the guard or riving knife from its position. And the clamp isn’t that positive. I had a kick-back last year that tore the guard out of the clamp and off the saw. Once I received a new clamp I found I wasn’t able to apply any more pressure to the clamp. If I tightened up any more on the bolt through the clamp then the clamp wouldn’t close. I will not use that saw without a guard.

Dust collection on the 690 is okay but I improved it dramatically by increasing the size of the opening and dust collection pipe to 6”. I no longer have any residue left in the bottom of the saw. Adding a heater vent to the motor door also helped in getting proper air flow through the cabinet of the saw.

The 1023 dust collection is pitiful. The small hose connected to the shroud under the blade clogs easily and completely requiring the user to remove the side of the shroud to clear the clog. I removed the shroud, small hose and enlarged the opening on the back of the cabinet to 6” and added another heater vent to the door. When ripping with the 1023, there are almost no debris left in the bottom of the cabinet.

The dust collection port is divided up into two sections, one for the small hose and the balance for the cabinet. Extra poor design and doesn’t work well for either.

Would I buy another 690 or 1023, sure would.

BTW I have a Shop Fox mobile base under both saws as well as the 20” Grizzly planer I have in the shop. They are a little difficult to assemble but all do their job as intended. The planer weighs 900 or so pounds and is somewhat easy to move when necessary. normally all the tools stay put but can be moved for cleaning.

-- David www.TheBoardSMITH.com

View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1576 days


#11 posted 10-29-2014 01:10 PM

David, I think you’ve got the best solution – I’ll just get both saws! Not really, but your post was incredibly helpful – it’s great to get feedback from someone who DOES have both of them and can apples-to-apples them for me.

I think I’m going to have to stick with the 1023. I measured my available space and it’s already a tight fit for my R4512 – which is only about 48” overall width. The 1023 is 56”, while the 690 is 62” – which I think will just be way too wide for my space. Plus, the 1023 has the router table (again, I need to conserve space wherever possible) and from what I understand it is a little quieter (David, do you agree?) – which is also important because my shop is in the lower-level of a split entry house.

Do you mind if I PM you after I get the saw to ask some questions on improving the dust collection? I can give the saw a dedicated 4” line, and I’d be ok with making some relatively simple modifications to improve dust and airflow.

Steve and philba, thanks so much for your thoughts as well. I really appreciate the feedback. I thought my decision was made until the 690 went on sale and I second-guessed myself, and if I had room for the 690 I might still be debating.

Now I just need to wait to see what happens with sales and coupons – if anyone gets a Grizzly 10% coupon in the coming weeks and isn’t going to use it, I’d be happy to take it off your hands :-).

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1576 days


#12 posted 10-29-2014 01:34 PM

Another mobile base question – do you think I could repurpose the custom base I made for my R4512 to work with the 1023RLW? I made this base for my current saw (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/97076 ):

The flat base is a pretty heavy-duty conference room tabletop; I think it’s 1.5” thick particle board, and it’s resting on six 3” locking/braking casters each rated for 175 lbs (these guys – http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-in-Polyurethane-Caster-with-Brake-4120545EB/203672194 ).

Since I’m getting the model with the router table (which has its own legs), I was thinking that instead of getting the 2057 with extension (at a hefty price tag), I could just remove all of the platforms/cubbies from my current base and let the saw sit on that thick tabletop. The base currently is holding my R4512 plus a DW734 planer and something like 10-15 half-full cans of stain, and it’s still pretty easy to roll around.

The other advantage of that base is that my shop floor isn’t entirely level (it has a slight slope towards a drain), so my base ensures that the saw cabinet and router table legs are always in contact with a flat surface no matter where it rolls.

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1576 days


#13 posted 10-29-2014 01:57 PM

Well damn, now the 1023RL (without router table) is on sale for $100 off. Considering it also ships for $50 cheaper than the RLW, I think I’m just going to order that saw and either make my own router table or pick up the add-on table later. The add-on table is $250, and with the current sale I can get the RL for about $220 less than the RLW. That seems like the best deal.

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1576 days


#14 posted 10-29-2014 02:22 PM

And… DONE! Just pulled the trigger on the 1023RL. For far less than $220, I’m pretty sure I can retrofit my Bosch router tabletop into the saw wing. Plus, I can build a bracket to attach the Bosch fence to the backside of the 1023 fence with a lot less work than building a new router fence from scratch.

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

View philba's profile

philba

96 posts in 839 days


#15 posted 10-30-2014 03:06 AM

I think you did the right thing. But, I kind of doubt you will be able repurpose that base for the 1023. That TS is >500 lbs. I don’t think you will miss the router table wing. I got it for the wing, not the router though I have used it. I’m in the process of building a table that will allow use of a jointech IPM that I picked up cheap at an auction.

showing 1 through 15 of 21 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com