LumberJocks

A little help here.........deciding on table saw

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by tom in indy posted 10-24-2014 06:59 PM 1129 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View tom in indy's profile

tom in indy

41 posts in 1808 days


10-24-2014 06:59 PM

I am in the process of getting a “real” Table Saw.
A little background information.
I bought a ShopSmith about 30 years ago. I have never been real impressed with the Table Saw when I have used it. Then I was given an OLD (1950’s or before) Delta Homecraft 8” bench top model. It did not have either a miter gauge or rip fence. I made a cross cut sled for it but still not happy with it.
My shop is in half of the basement, it is about 9-10’ by 20-22’.

I have narrowed my decision down to 2 saws. A Grizzly G0715P, or a SteelCity 35990C. Originally I had decided on the Grizzly but was reading other posts and the SteelCity was mentioned. I have been looking at the SC and any info I can find about them. I am still not totally decided.
If you have either of these 2 saws or are familiar with them please share your opinion about the saw. I am looking for both Positives and negatives to base my final decision.

Thanks
Tom in Indy


12 replies so far

View cebfish's profile

cebfish

129 posts in 2149 days


#1 posted 10-24-2014 07:47 PM

I have the steel city saw I really like my saw but I would not go with granite top mine cracked. Steel city replaced in less than a week after I called them. great customer service.

View JayT's profile

JayT

4772 posts in 1672 days


#2 posted 10-24-2014 07:55 PM

Did you see this thread? My thoughts are in there.

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

View jacquesr's profile

jacquesr

339 posts in 884 days


#3 posted 10-24-2014 08:40 PM

I seriously considered the SC just a few months ago.
Then I saw one in person and was very disappointed.
I bought the delta 36-725.
This is a great machine. On top of it you can get it for $450.
Much more mother machine. This thing is great. He is awesome. Save yourself some money and get yourself a great saw.
In addition this is very popular on the lumberjacks. You will find help easily and quickly if you need any. Good luck.

View joey502's profile

joey502

487 posts in 979 days


#4 posted 10-24-2014 08:51 PM

I bought a Steel City 1.75 hybrid saw in 2008 and have nothing but good things to say about the saw, both the construction and performance. If memory serves I paid $999.99 on sale at my local Woodcraft ( Louisville). Mine has cast iron top and wings, I have no experience with the granite tops.

I use thin kerf blades at all times and try to make myself change them for ripping and cross cutting but to be honest I rarely do. I mostly use a Freud cross cut blade for all operations, but I keep them clean. The saw would rip much better if I was using a proper blade.

I would buy one with a full cabinet. The dust collection on mine is wonderful and I could not imagine going back to an open bottom saw.

View Minorhero's profile

Minorhero

372 posts in 2066 days


#5 posted 10-24-2014 09:48 PM

To my mind there is not much choice between these 2 saws. The grizzly has a 2hp motor to the steal city 1.5. The grizzly has an enclosed base which makes dust collection better. The grizzly bessy clone fence is a proven quantity and is rock solid. I own one on my old unisaw and I am quite happy with it. The SC saw has a t-fence but I don’t know anything about it.

The grizzly has a riving knife. This is huge and a very important safety feature. Looking at descriptions of the SC I see no mention of a riving knife which makes me think it does not have one. This reason alone should be enough to forget about the SC.

View JayT's profile

JayT

4772 posts in 1672 days


#6 posted 10-24-2014 09:56 PM

The grizzly has a riving knife. This is huge and a very important safety feature. Looking at descriptions of the SC I see no mention of a riving knife which makes me think it does not have one. This reason alone should be enough to forget about the SC.

- Minorhero

Yes, it does. All new table saws being sold in the US have to include a riving knife and blade guard by federal law. You are welcome to express your opinion that you think the Grizzly is better, but please don’t spread disinformation.

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

View Minorhero's profile

Minorhero

372 posts in 2066 days


#7 posted 10-25-2014 01:05 AM

uhuh. You managed to not read my post. Then criticize it.

Impressive.

View tom in indy's profile

tom in indy

41 posts in 1808 days


#8 posted 10-25-2014 12:32 PM



To my mind there is not much choice between these 2 saws. The grizzly has a 2hp motor to the steal city 1.5. The grizzly has an enclosed base which makes dust collection better. The grizzly bessy clone fence is a proven quantity and is rock solid. I own one on my old unisaw and I am quite happy with it. The SC saw has a t-fence but I don t know anything about it.

The grizzly has a riving knife. This is huge and a very important safety feature. Looking at descriptions of the SC I see no mention of a riving knife which makes me think it does not have one. This reason alone should be enough to forget about the SC.

- Minorhero

I am basically in the same mind.

Grizzly has 2hp….............................. SC 1.5
Griz closed base….............................SC open with legs
Griz 1 piece rails…............................SC 2 piece

Both have Cast Iron tops (there is NO way I would go to Granite I an TOO clumsy)

I guess the only thing that I am confused with is:
Griz table mounted trunion….............SC Cabinet Mount

View timbertailor's profile

timbertailor

1591 posts in 885 days


#9 posted 10-25-2014 12:55 PM

I use thin kerf blades at all times and try to make myself change them for ripping and cross cutting but to be honest I rarely do. I mostly use a Freud cross cut blade for all operations, but I keep them clean. The saw would rip much better if I was using a proper blade.

- joey502

I use the Freud Premier Fusion TK blades for ripping and cross cutting. The rips are so clean, I can glue them up without sending them through the joiner. I have read several reviews and several report it being better than their “rip glue line” blades.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

View buildingmonkey's profile

buildingmonkey

242 posts in 1008 days


#10 posted 10-26-2014 01:39 AM

I got my Grizzly Christmas sale catalog, they have some tablesaws in it. The one that gets me excited is that slider with the 126” stroke, made in Germany. But it is 3 phase, and too many hp for my shop. If they would put a 5hp motor, 220, bet they could sell a bunch to hobby guys. Would be interesting to know what company actually builds it.

-- Jim from Kansas

View joey502's profile

joey502

487 posts in 979 days


#11 posted 10-26-2014 03:51 PM


I use thin kerf blades at all times and try to make myself change them for ripping and cross cutting but to be honest I rarely do. I mostly use a Freud cross cut blade for all operations, but I keep them clean. The saw would rip much better if I was using a proper blade.

- joey502

I use the Freud Premier Fusion TK blades for ripping and cross cutting. The rips are so clean, I can glue them up without sending them through the joiner. I have read several reviews and several report it being better than their “rip glue line” blades.

- timbertailor

I agree about the performance of the Freud blades, they cut beautifully. I think my comment came across wrong. I was saying that my saw would rip with less effort if I were to use an actual rip blade or a general purpose vs the 60 tooth crosscut that is in it.

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1100 posts in 1747 days


#12 posted 10-26-2014 04:16 PM

I have the SC 35990G (granite top). Mounting the wings and adjusting the miter slot width was a bit fiddly until I figured it out. First one took almost an hour. Second one maybe 15 minutes. I believe at least one model of the cast iron top from SC has the miter slots milled into the top as “normal” without the split slot arrangement. I did a complete write up on the split slot setup and if you read it through, it makes the job easy. Easier than shimming, tapping on, and fussing with a “standard” wing mount.

I also use freud thin kerf blades. AND I use full kerf blades. Depends what I’m doing. But I cut a LOT of 5/4 walnut with mine, a bunch of 4/4 cherry and hard maple, etc, and didn’t have and saw-related problems at all. In fact it did a nice job.

Dust collection could be a bit better, but I have no issues with it. Once in a while when I’m changing inserts, I start the DC and knock off the dust piles inside (it hangs in the corners… that’s about it). Dust collection is improved mightily by sealing the slot where the handle runs when laying the blade over at an angle (magnetic sheet like the stuff they print business cards and refrigerator calenders on… easy and cheap) and stuff some foam on the underside where the table and cabinet meet to seal any gaps there. Those are probably BOTH a good idea on ANY saw to improve dust collection.

Riving knife comes off easily for doing dadoes or rabbets. So far all adjustments have been easy to make. AND…. the granite is flat and doesn’t rust. I still wax it, ‘cause I like things to slide easily.

The FENCE was always the bain of my existance. The 2-piece front rail had the seam right where you have to straddle it to cut face frame-width pieces. If you don’t get that front rail adjusted PERFECTLY (and you can ... it just takes some fussing) you end up with the fence aligned ever-so-slightly differently when you straddle the seam in the rail. HOWEVER I did get mine adjusted and built all my kitchen cabinets with this saw. So …. fence far from blade to cut panels and then in close to cut face frame pieces and stretchers, etc and no problems. You can simply replace the front rail with a piece of 2 inch square tube, OR….. you can find a Biesemeyer fence on craigslist for $50 (if you have a horse shoe implanted in your butt) like I did.

I was going to say, “So that’s my 2 cents”, but it seems I’ve gone to more like half a dollar :)

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com