Questions on using gorilla glue

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Forum topic by BinghamtonEd posted 10-24-2014 01:19 PM 1652 views 0 times favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2263 posts in 1790 days

10-24-2014 01:19 PM

So this weekend I’m going to be gluing up a mailbox post I’ve been working on. The post is made of 4×4 pressure-treated lumber. This will hold two mailboxes, and the vertical post and the horizontal pieces are joined by half-lap joints to make a cross. The 4×4’s had been sitting in my garage for about 6 months before use, and they’re pretty dry for pressure treated wood (when the half laps were cut, there was no noticeable wetness inside the wood), although I do not have a moisture meter.

I’m planning on using Gorilla Glue, from what I’ve read, it works well with pressure-treated lumber, and stands up to exterior use. I’ve never used it before. I’ve heard that it foams quite a bit. So this raises a few basic questions :

1.) Will masking tape around the joints be sufficient to control the foaming? I figure I can trim the foam back after, and the tape will protect the wood (it will be stained, so I don’t want to have areas that don’t absorb stain due to glue).

2.) My gut is telling me I should wait for the glue to dry, and then try to remove the dried squeezeout/foam, rather than I would normally do with Titebond, which is to remove it after about a half hour or an hour. Thoughts?

3.) How much to apply? I’ve only worked with Elmer’s and Titebond II/III before. Same amount? Slather more on? Use less?

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

26 replies so far

View mahdee's profile


3462 posts in 1188 days

#1 posted 10-24-2014 01:27 PM

This stuff grows like great stuff that is used for insulating cracks. If you want to prevent the expansion and get a better adhesion, drill a few holes for the glue to expand into instead of oozing out. It drys like a foam as well with pockets of air in it. Maybe use a thin metal with the tape over it to create some clearance between the wood and the wood. It takes a week to get it off your hands so wear gloves.


View johnstoneb's profile


2104 posts in 1593 days

#2 posted 10-24-2014 01:30 PM

Gorilla glue needs some moisture to cure. The directions actually recommend that you wet the joint before applying the glue. Tape won’t control the foaming but it will protect the wood and make it easier to remove the squeezeout. You will need to let it cure before removing. Probably want to wear some type of glove as the glue is extremely sticky until fully cured. I just squeeze out several lines of glue then clamp together and let it foam. It’s extremely difficult to spread because it is so sticky. Let it cure completely before trying to remove the excess. trying to remove before cured just causes the squeezeout to adhere to the wood and makes it harder to get off.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View BinghamtonEd's profile


2263 posts in 1790 days

#3 posted 10-24-2014 01:37 PM

Thanks for the info, guys. I have nitrile gloves but wouldn’t have worn them, so this is great information. Usually with TB I put the glue on, then spread it with my finger. Guess I’ll avoid that practice with the GG!

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View waho6o9's profile


7119 posts in 1997 days

#4 posted 10-24-2014 01:40 PM

If it’s the water activated glue I’d practice on scraps first as it’s a little
different than normal glue and using masking tape is a good idea.

Let the glue dry and then remove the squeeze out.

How much to apply? Great question as I usually put too much on and have
a bigger mess to clean up but the joint isn’t glue starved either. The glue expansion
is a new thing so practicing on scraps may be beneficial.

I’d use a little less glue.






The product that started it all. Original Gorilla Glue built a name for itself with its incredible, industrial holding power and versatility. Water activated, it expands into materials to form an incredibly strong bond to virtually anything. Gorilla Glue is your solution for almost any project or repair. It’s 100% waterproof, safe for indoor and outdoor use and strong enough to stand up to the elements. Plus, its expansion allows it to penetrate the glued surface for a superior bond. Sand it, paint it, stain it. Simply stated, it’s the Toughest Glue on Planet Earth.

Available Sizes
3g Gorilla Glue Minis, 2oz., 4oz., 8oz., 18oz., 36oz.

mrjinx007 has a solid idea on drilling holes for the glue to expand into, good one Sir.

View CharlesA's profile


2973 posts in 1218 days

#5 posted 10-24-2014 02:28 PM

It is really easy to over-apply. Practicing is not bad advice. When you have too much, it foams everywhere.

You have a need for it in this application, but I never use it otherwise. Pain.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View diverlloyd's profile


1255 posts in 1278 days

#6 posted 10-24-2014 03:00 PM

The joint need to be a good tight joint. The sloppier the joint will cause the glue to foam and expand to fill the gaps. This greatly reduces the strength of the joint. If you keep that in mind and follow the instruction it should be a good joint.

View RRBOU's profile


136 posts in 1713 days

#7 posted 10-24-2014 03:01 PM

Tape will help to control the squeeze out. I have found that it is not that difficult to remove by sanding. I have not found it to be like other glue and show through the finish. But then maybe I get it all sanded off.
Apply the glue then spread it out with a plastic card. (I use hotel key cards) spread it thin, and I mean thin, this stuff is thick like honey. Do not apply it to both faces. If you want and your wood is very dry use a spray bottle to wet the surface that is bare then stick them together. pressure treated lumber should have enough moisture content that if it were me I would not wore about spraying the uncoated face. Clamp it and do not remove the clamps for at least 12 hrs. I usually leave the clamps on for 24 hrs. If you pull the clamps early the foaming action will separate the joint and it will fail. This stuff is extremely strong if you have a good tight fitting joint. If you have a loose joint the foaming action will create a lot of air bubbles in the joint and two chipmunks could pull it apart.

-- If guns cause crime all of mine are defective Randy

View mahdee's profile


3462 posts in 1188 days

#8 posted 10-24-2014 03:08 PM

waho6o9, thanks.


View wseand's profile


2754 posts in 2462 days

#9 posted 10-24-2014 03:29 PM

I would use a construction adhesive, . PL Premium is great for pressure treated wood.

-- Bill - "Freedom flies in your heart like an Eagle" Audie Murphy

View waho6o9's profile


7119 posts in 1997 days

#10 posted 10-24-2014 03:40 PM

You’re welcome mrjinx007.

View distrbd's profile


2220 posts in 1867 days

#11 posted 10-24-2014 03:42 PM

I would use a construction adhesive, . PL Premium is great for pressure treated wood.

- wseand

That would be my suggestion as well,once the PL premium cures it’ll take a Gorilla to break it apart.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View mahdee's profile


3462 posts in 1188 days

#12 posted 10-24-2014 04:11 PM

agree with wseand and disturbd. Good quality ones run around 6-8 dollar a tube. It would a good idea to use fastener of some sort with that approach. It can’t be used like glue, it is better for both surfaces to be roughed out but as long as there is a 1/8” of adhesive between the two pieces, you should be good to go.


View SamuraiSaw's profile


513 posts in 1385 days

#13 posted 10-24-2014 05:20 PM

The first thing you should do is throw the gorilla gunk in the trash. Polyurethane glues are worthless.

Titebond III or construction adhesive will work just fine.

-- Artisan Woodworks of Texas....

View Rxmpo's profile


264 posts in 3166 days

#14 posted 10-25-2014 12:20 AM


I would avoid using GG if at all possible. It will bind almost anything together for eternity but I don’t use it anymore for anything.

You need to wet one side of the joint and apply the glue to the other side. I have used popsicle like stick to apply coat on the non-wet side and spread it to a THIN consistency. Do not add too much! If you think it might not be enough then you have enough! Very sticky as stated here and good advice to where gloves as also mentioned. The foam dries like a rock. Joint will be solid, but IMHO you have gotten good advice for better options.

Good luck with which ever way you go. If you have it already and want to try it out, the test piece advice is definitely the way to go first.

View runswithscissors's profile


2127 posts in 1445 days

#15 posted 10-25-2014 12:42 AM

You might also consider mechanical fastening—screws, bolts, or whatever. I have no advice either way on Gorilla Glue.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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