Re-saw Band saw..

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Forum topic by prez posted 02-10-2009 01:46 AM 3346 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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375 posts in 2833 days

02-10-2009 01:46 AM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw milling question

I tried to resaw some pieces awhile back but every time I try it….the blade keeps wandering! I can’t seem to keep the blade going straight…it wanders to the left or right and makes a lousy cut! What am I doing wrong or what needs to be done to correct this?? I’m using a 1/4 inch blade and have increased the tension on it but it still wanders….

-- George..." I love the smell of a workshop in the morning!"

17 replies so far

View pommy's profile


1697 posts in 3113 days

#1 posted 02-10-2009 02:00 AM

Hi George
you should lower your blade guide down as far as you can and in the past i’v tryed using two fence’s either side of your stock i found the little movement helped i may be wrong but just my 2 bob ok


-- cut it saw it scrap it SKPE: ANDREW.CARTER69

View Shopsmithtom's profile


787 posts in 3616 days

#2 posted 02-10-2009 02:14 AM

I think all bandsaws have some desire to wander one direction or the other. Even after I got my saw fine tuned, it did that. The solution for me was to feed a piece by hand to determine the angle I needed to feed the wood to get a cut that was straight & parallel to the wood edge, and then set mt rip fence to that angle.
Now when I set my fence, it looks odd in that it’s skewed to the table, but my wood feeds smoothly and I can get great re-saw results. I posted some pics of the result in a tool review I did a while back on my Magna bandsaw.

If I knew how to give the link to that, I would, but I’m clueless. -SST

-- Accuracy is not in your power tool, it's in you

View closetguy's profile


744 posts in 3314 days

#3 posted 02-10-2009 03:03 AM

Your 1/4” blade is the problem. That size blade is not a good choice for re-saw work. Get a 1/2” one and you probably won’t have any more of those problems.

-- I don't make mistakes, only design

View David Freed's profile

David Freed

107 posts in 3089 days

#4 posted 02-10-2009 03:47 AM

I agree with skeezics and closetguy. I use a 3/4”, 3 tpi blade for resawing.

-- David, Southern Indiana

View prez's profile


375 posts in 2833 days

#5 posted 02-10-2009 04:11 AM

K….. will try the suggestions…, off to my favorite store to buy a 3/4” blade…..will let you know how I make out…........BUT if you’re wrong…......I’ll send you the bill !!!......... :-)) humour is so much fun…

-- George..." I love the smell of a workshop in the morning!"

View CedarFreakCarl's profile


594 posts in 3475 days

#6 posted 02-10-2009 04:30 AM

Hi George:
Here’s a link to the Wood Whisperer bandsaw tuneup video.
Bandsaw Tuneup
In this one, he shows how to tune up a bandsaw and adust the fence for drift.
Hope this helps, Carl.

-- Carl Rast, Pelion, SC

View BigFoot Products Canada's profile

BigFoot Products Canada

697 posts in 2815 days

#7 posted 02-10-2009 04:42 AM

Hi George,
Do not use a 1/4” blade it’s to thin
Buy at least a 1/2” with 4 teeth per inch max.
Use a resaw guide to make the cuts. You can make one or buy a commercial one.
On Most bandsaws the wheels are out of alignment. You have to square them up.
You should file the back of your blade also afer installing it, so it’s rounded.
There is a VERY good video you can buy on tuneing up your bandsaw and a demonstration of how to re-saw.
It’s called “Handyman Mastering Your Bandsaw”

View 8iowa's profile


1540 posts in 3183 days

#8 posted 02-10-2009 04:43 AM

Shopsmithtom gave some key advice above. You will find that even your new 3/4” blade will cut more agressively on one side than another, causing a drift or leade which can ruin your cut if you do not set your fence to compensate for this drift. To elaborate just a little bit, put your new blade in , tension it, then select a board approximately 3/4” x 3” x 24” and draw a line in the center, parallel to the sides. Carefully hand feed the stock through the bandsaw, taking great care to stay on the drawn line. Stop when you get 1/2 way down the board. Be careful to not move it. Turn off the bandsaw and clamp your test board in place. You will notice that it is situated at somewhat of an angle on the table top. Now run your fence against the clamped board, and set it so that it will always repeat this angle. Your resaws should now be straight and true. A featherboard is a great asset if you have one. Also use a push stick. Note: If you change blades, you will have to go theough this procedure all over agsain.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

View TomHintz's profile


207 posts in 2820 days

#9 posted 02-10-2009 10:22 AM

I have a story on resawing at the link below (with photos and video) that might have some info that will help you.

Resawing Basics

-- Tom Hintz,

View prez's profile


375 posts in 2833 days

#10 posted 02-10-2009 04:17 PM

Thanks guys….went to the videos and that really helped. The wood whisperer made an excellent presentation. I think some of my problems is that I’ve got an old bandsaw and the table is small with no fence. I could do one of two things….build a larger table with fence or buy a new larger table…just haven’t gotten around to doing either….probably later. Maybe I can do a reno on it like I did with my rockwell/beaver TS.

-- George..." I love the smell of a workshop in the morning!"

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

4010 posts in 3485 days

#11 posted 02-10-2009 04:20 PM

Order a Woodslicer 1/2 inch blade from Highland Woodworking. While I am not a paid spokesperson, I can assure you from my own experience and the reviews of others here that you will notice a marked difference in tracking, smoothness of cut and much less noise.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

View MortTenon's profile


13 posts in 2818 days

#12 posted 02-10-2009 06:42 PM

I have tried to resaw with a half inch blade and have the same problem with drift. A local shop made the blade for me (along with a 1/4 inch) specifically for resawing. I have a Kreg fence, and it just pulls the wood away from the fence. I have the saw tension as far as it will go, and the only way to get any semblance of accuracy is to go very slowly. When I do that I get a lot of burning. I can’t afford a better saw right now, having just bought a new table saw.

I’m off to explore the above links.

View Paul's profile


439 posts in 3011 days

#13 posted 02-10-2009 07:22 PM

All the above are good tips, one more to think about is to make sure that your blade is ‘tracking’ in the middle of the drive tire, if it is off to one side it will cause the blade to deflect slightly and result in pulling the cut to one side. This is not the whole answer but might be part of the solution.

-- If you say 'It's good enough', it probably isn't.

View prez's profile


375 posts in 2833 days

#14 posted 02-12-2009 05:04 AM

so….checked with Lee Valley for a 3/4” blade….according to their catalogue a blade special for re-sawing is $49 ! Other blades are in the $20 range. Pretty steep increase but suppose it’s worth it if you’re going to do a lot of re-sawing….haven’t ordered it yet…maybe later….busy with the murphey bed build right now!

-- George..." I love the smell of a workshop in the morning!"

View closetguy's profile


744 posts in 3314 days

#15 posted 02-12-2009 06:03 AM

I agree with Douglas. I have the 1/2” woodslicer from Highland Hardware. It resaws straight and easy.

-- I don't make mistakes, only design

showing 1 through 15 of 17 replies

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