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New table saw fence faces - attachment?

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Forum topic by Charlie posted 10-20-2014 02:43 PM 1215 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Charlie

1100 posts in 1751 days


10-20-2014 02:43 PM

Some of you may have seen my Biesemeyer score, but I thought I’d start a new topic just for the fence refurb.
I’ve stripped off the old fences as they were delaminating beyond repair. I’ve stripped all the old paint off the fence and I’m in the middle of painting it (primer stage, at the moment) and I’m undecided so far as to how I’m going to attach the new fence faces.

The plywood backing for the original fences is still in good enough shape to use as a drilling template.

Should I…
Just go buy some new self tappers (to replace the crusty ones I took out) and remount the new faces the same way using self tapping screws (I think 9 per side)?

OR…
Should I drill the fence holes bigger and tap them ?

OR…
Should I just through bolt it?

Keep in mind that I NEVER use the right side fence face as I don’t use the fence at all to the left of the blade.

I have some 1/2” white Corian I was thinking of using, but I could also use baltic ply or whatever. I’m a little concerned about the Corian only because by the time I counterbore the holes (for the self tappers or any other washer/screw or washer-head screw) it could be a little thin. Or I could just countersink them and use a bevel headed screw.

What’s a good way to attach the faces?


6 replies so far

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

7174 posts in 2041 days


#1 posted 10-20-2014 03:03 PM

http://www.deltamachinery.com/faq/303-can-i-refurbish-my-older-biesemeyer-commercial-fence

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=50527

I googled Biesemeyer fence re-facing and found a few items.

Some good ideas like this:

Good luck now.

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

2572 posts in 1722 days


#2 posted 10-21-2014 12:35 AM

“OR…
Should I just through bolt it?

Keep in mind that I NEVER use the right side fence face as I don’t use the fence at all to the left of the blade.”

Charlie. like you, I never use the right side of the fence. However, I have made a high fence (think of a lower case “h” that drops over the fence). If you ever want one of these for beveling stock, like raised panels, you will have to consider the bolts coming through the fence. Certainly, this isn’t insurmountable, just something to consider. HTH

-- Art

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Charlie

1100 posts in 1751 days


#3 posted 10-21-2014 01:06 AM

I would have the bolts countersunk or counterbored into both faces. I had faces on both sides of my original fence. I just never used the right side fence. But keeping it all smooth made it easier to do exactly what you mentioned.

:)

View doitforfun's profile

doitforfun

199 posts in 1072 days


#4 posted 10-21-2014 12:39 PM

I’m planning to reface mine as well. I would just use self taping screws. Simple, easy, effective. Now the issue for me is how the heck do I laminate it after attaching the fence? What about just finishing it with poly or paint? I doubt it would be as durable as plastic laminate, but it sure would be a heck of a lot easier.

-- Brian in Wantagh, NY

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Charlie

1100 posts in 1751 days


#5 posted 10-21-2014 03:42 PM

OK, well…. getting ready to start putting this back together. Using the existing self tappers is going to be VERY unforgiving in terms of placement. I’m planning to change the glide pads at some point so the fence tube itself could go up or down a little when I do that. So I’m going to through-bolt it. Using 1/2” Corian on the left (blade-side) and 3/4 hardwood on the right. Using long 1/4-20 hex heads with flat washers on both sides. I can sink the bolt head into the Corian no problem. I have a carbide router bit that will do the job nicely (tested on a scrap piece of Corian). The resulting counterbore accommodates the flat washer about as exactly as you’d like. On the hardwood side, I have to counterbore enough to accommodate the flat washer and a nut and I’m undecided if I want to stick a lock washer in there. Either way, nothing sticks up past the surface of the fence on either side so I will still be able to slip something over this when it’s done.

NOW…..
The existing holes were apparently not drilled through from one side. Looks like they were drilled on one side, then flipped and drilled on the other. When I hold the 2 original plywood fences together and line up a bolt hole at one end, by the time I get to the other end they’re off by about 2/3 to 3/4 of a hole. So I’m going to drill the fence tube a bit oversized to give me some breathing room.

Question:
HOW many bolts should I plan on using?
It’s a 42 inch fence. There were EIGHT of those self tappers in each side. I’m thinking 4 or maybe 5 1/4-20 bolts is plenty. If I use 4, I can avoid the area where the blade is. If I use 5 or more, I really can’t avoid putting one in the blade arc.

I’ve never run the blade into my fence face. When things are going to get that close I stick a sacrificial fence face on. And I never move the fence with the blade spinning. I just don’t. I’ve just always felt better not having any metal where the blade could hit it.

Thoughts?

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Charlie

1100 posts in 1751 days


#6 posted 10-21-2014 03:44 PM



I m planning to reface mine as well. I would just use self taping screws. Simple, easy, effective. Now the issue for me is how the heck do I laminate it after attaching the fence? What about just finishing it with poly or paint? I doubt it would be as durable as plastic laminate, but it sure would be a heck of a lot easier.

- doitforfun

yeah, I’m not doing that laminating thing. I’m using a piece of Corian so I don’t think I’ll need to worry about it.
Heck I’ve run for 2 years with a baltic birch face and had no issues. And Corian is a LOT slicker than birch.

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