Need advice on Table saw

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Forum topic by Don posted 10-20-2014 01:28 PM 898 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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8 posts in 739 days

10-20-2014 01:28 PM

Not sure if this is where this should go. I posted this in another thread here. so far no response. (maybe I’m just hasty)...anyway, I could use some advice…..So, I had to start this thread, since I need to do something very soon. Very important house fix going on. Stained popcorn ceiling in bathroom. So, I need to repair it, and can’t do with what I have. ...that said, please check this post…ok?....ty

Also, if after ya read this, if I should just trash this saw, and get new, any suggestions?....Right now, there isn’t $$ for a cabinet saw. Not even sure if I have 220 in my home shop (which is an out building 2 car garage). There is a breaker box there, so…....Anyway, what we have for saw is around $500.00. Suggestions?...recently, I tried searching Craigslist….(JOKE)!!...what was there, should be a landfill project. and the Prices!!!!...people want new prices for very old used…Bah!!....So, please help????...thanks I do appreciate any and all what you experienced workers have to say…:)

Following is previous post….

Hi all…I’m not sure if this thread has been closed or not, but here goes. I too have an older craftsman TS. MODEL NO.
113.241591 this is a Flex-Drive. Maybe some of the old timers might remember this one. Anyway, my problem is this. Recently, while I was trying to get a perfectly straight rip cut, I saw that the fence had to basically be tapped with a light weight hammer at the end to get it in line w/blade. NOT a Good thing!...also, I hadn’t noticed this other problem b4, but when I removed my ‘0’clearance insert, and looked at blade, all looked good, until I just tried to move the blade a little sideways. Shock!!...there was a minor wobble at the arbor. The blade was securely tightened, (the nut was tight). the nut holding blade, not the one checking for problems. ha ha. But, seriously, I am getting very frustrated with this old saw. Also, when I try to do a bevel on this……FORGET IT!!!...this is where the saw becomes a living thing!!...when I try to tilt it, everything becomes extremely loose. It makes me very apprehensive. So, I do not do any bevel cuts at all. Sadly, when a major benefit of TS’s allow them to do all kinds of degree cuts.

Well I think that’s about it.

So, please any and all help would be welcomed.

BTW, I would love to purchase a new saw, either Hybrid, or cabinet. But, budget does not allow for this at this time.

thanks in advance…:D

Happy cutting, and make some sawdust!!

P.S. Good news…I just had someone out here, and he verified that I do have 220 in my shop. So, that does open some possibilities. Now, to consider what anyone has to say about newer saws, (not necessarily brand new)...thanks again for any help ya can give…:D

9 replies so far

View David_H's profile


90 posts in 738 days

#1 posted 10-20-2014 03:08 PM

What is your budget? Generally speaking $100 -$600 is going to cover benchtop and jobsite saws, if you are just doing home repair than that is probably best choice. You will be paying the upper range for Bosch, Ridgid, and Dewalt Saws. $500 – $2000 will get a contractor saw, Craftsman, Ridgid, and Delta have contractor saws starting around $600 and most can be had at a local big box store. Theses are definitely a step up, but have some limitations in accuracy, mostly due to difficulty aligning and crap fences. Around $1000 – $1200, you can get grizzly, jet, and steel city contractor saws. The absolute upper range is the saw stop contractor saw. Of course around the $1200 and up you start dealing with hybrid and cabinet saws.

Generally Craigslist or Ebay are you best choices for finding deals on saws. You may also want to look around for school or other type auctions in your area. You can find good deals, but if you want a saw on the cheap is it is usually going to be a declamation project. I recently bought a Powermatic PM65 table saw off Craigslist for $75.00. It is going to need allot of work, all told with repairs, paint, and missing parts I will have $500-600 in it.

I vote for ditching the flex drive saw.

View toolie's profile


2009 posts in 2048 days

#2 posted 10-20-2014 04:56 PM

+1 on passing on flex drive. you’re kind of in the right church (113 series c-man saws) but teh wrong pew (flex drive). man y 113 belt drive, induction motored, 10” CI contractor saws were built be emerson electric for sears and ridgid. they are usually available with an older, not very well respected fence, for between $100 and $200. a delta t2 is between $180 and ~ 250 new and the two together make for a very good TS. it’s also a really simple design, so it’s reliable (unless abused) and easy to repair.

don’t be fooled into thinking 3hp cabinet saws are necessary to do quality cabinetry and furniture fabrication. i had a unisaw (70s model) and sold it over two 10” CI emerson built contratctor saws i had prior to getting the unisaw. after using the unisaw a little bit, it confirmed my suspicion that “it wasn’t all that and a bag of chips”. in a production environment, it’s worth it. and if it can be had inexpensively enough, go for it. but if you happen across a nice little saw with potential, it might be better deal.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View Don's profile


8 posts in 739 days

#3 posted 10-21-2014 03:32 AM

HEY, THANKS A LOT..I DO APPRECIATE IT. sorry bout caps. Over the weekend I was able to buy a Cman 113.299410(?going by memory rt now)...anyway, in great shape. Now all I have to do is tune it, and remove a little rust. Looking forward to my “new” saw. btw, it is belt drive and 3 hp, a somewhat reasonable fence, compared to my old one. Now, all this one has to do is get me by until, I can purchase a Grizz. Or something like that. After I get the Beast out of my van, I will try to take some pics and post..b4 and after tune up.

View CharlesA's profile


2973 posts in 1217 days

#4 posted 10-21-2014 05:16 AM

Good saw. Have a similar one. The 3 ho is inflated—it’s a 1.5 hp 110v motor. There are a few essential upgrades: 1)!get a link belt—way quieter and smoother. 2) buy a Leecraft ZCIs until you learn to make your own, 3) a good thin kerf blade or two, freud or Irwin marples seem to do the best for the most folks; 4) get a pals kit and get the same aligned. 5) I hated the blade guard/splitter, so I opt s for a micro-jig splitter pro—love it.

After that, a good aftermarket fence will do wonders. There are a number out there. I got a deal on a shop fox Classic on CL.

Good luck

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View Fettler's profile


200 posts in 1417 days

#5 posted 10-21-2014 06:30 AM

Craigslist is your friend.

-- --Rob, Seattle, WA

View David_H's profile


90 posts in 738 days

#6 posted 10-21-2014 01:57 PM

All great advice above, I would also recommend that you look real good at the arbor bearings, in fact even if you think they are good I would replace them anyway. These saws can be 30-40 years old and I would guess most have had little maintenance. Its fairly easy to do if you have the right tools. Also give the motor a good listen as well. You have two bearings in there as well. I advice this out of experience, and it will in the end familiarize you with your saw and give you a much better performing saw in the end.

View Don's profile


8 posts in 739 days

#7 posted 10-21-2014 04:38 PM

I sure do thank you all for your input. I just got it out of my van. now, I have to tune it. any advice on how tight the belt should be?...the manual says I should be able to squeeze it together, just touching. However, I can squeeze the belt past touching without any effort. So, help?????...thanks again. I’m sure I will have more questions as I go along….:S

View David_H's profile


90 posts in 738 days

#8 posted 10-21-2014 05:31 PM

Your motor should pivot as you raise and lower the blade, tension is applied to the belt by the weight of the motor, lower your blade all the way down and apply the belt, make it long enough (if it is a link belt) that the full weight of the motor is tensioning the belt. This really all there is to it. If you have a regular v-belt that came with the saw the length should be fine as is, just make sure the motor moves freely with the raising and lowering of the blade.

View Don's profile


8 posts in 739 days

#9 posted 10-21-2014 07:15 PM

great…thanks…since I have been using cable drive (flex drive) for about 5+ years…not used to the belt. I will check this all out…ty again

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