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Which grizzly table saw should I get?

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3K views 28 replies 13 participants last post by  rantingrich 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Im ready to make the jump from a R4512 to a cabinet saw, budget around $1,700. I think I've narrowed my top choices to two Grizzlies: the G0690 or the G1023RLW. I have a very small shop, so the integrated router table of the 1023 is a huge plus, but other than that I'm having a tough time figuring out which saw is better, and why. It looks like they have very similar power, fences, construction, etc. I'd really love to get some opinions from jocks with more table saw experience - what do you guys think? Can you help me parse the spec differences for what really matters and what doesn't? Is there something rockin' about the 690 that should really make me choose it, even though I lose the router table?

Edit: $1700 budget including shipping, zci, and possibly a mobile base. So those two saws just about max me out.
 
#3 ·
I had the 1023slx for 10 years and sold it for 800. So it kept it's value pretty well. It served me very well and the only reason I sold it was to upgrade to a 5HP Sawstop ICS. I never had any service issues and it got moved half way across the states and back. Can't speak to the other model you mentioned.
 
#5 ·
i got to use the 690 for a bit
found the dust extraction to be lacking
just a 4" port down low on the side of the saw
allot of the dust landed on the trunnions
and made adjusting up and down
a real pain
had to use air to clear it of there by the blade

i think the 1023 has a vac line to that area
as well as the main port
not really sure about that
might ask the rep about it
 
#7 ·
I just got a 690 and love it. Dust collection is quite good as I see it.
All saws get dusty inside the cabinet. To keep it clean, just blow the dust out while the dust collector is running.
I haven't had any problems with the saw. Everything was perfect rite out of the box.
The 690 has the Leeson motor on it, but I don't think that really matters.
Just get the one you want. You can't go wrong with either saw!

Enjoy your new saw
 
#8 ·
As an engineer, I like the trunnion design of the 690 better. It's built like older Unisaws.
The 1023 has a setup that looks like a heavy duty version of the Ridgid 4512.
I only hear good things about either saw and would love to have either one, but given a choice, I'd go for the 690 myself.
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
Dan, I have been using my 1023RLW for two years with no problems. It does have a hose connected to the dust catcher under the blade. Mine plugged up and I had to clean it out. The hose is connected to the 4 inch port at the rear of the saw, mounted down low. It does a pretty good job and I clean it out every so often. I haven't had any problem with dust preventing me from raising or lowering the blade, or setting it up for 45's.

Some folks say the router table is asking for trouble. I guess that could be true. But if you are making something that is ripping and routing, as I did when building the custom coolers, it was really nice to cut a board, step over one step, turn the router on and round the edges of the board. Pretty spanky, I tell ya.

The router table has a universal connection setup, which is three bars that you clamp your router base into. I have a Bosch 1617 base mounted under there with it's accessory dust port.

Oh, I almost forgot. I followed KnotScott's instructions so I could move my fence to the right so I can rip up to 37 inches wide with the fence/rails that come with the saw.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/89734

Hope this helps.
Mike

Here are a few pics.

Note: The start stop switch for the router came from Rockler. I mounted it on the support leg.
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#10 ·
Before I bought the 690, I actually had ordered a RLWX, but they were on back order till sometime in December and I didn't want to wait.
I kept going from the 690 to the 1023 and after reading every review I could, I decided on the 690.
I had gone to a local hardware store that had the Shop Fox, which is the same saw as the 690.
After playing with that saw for a half hour and seeing how well it was made, I ordered the 690.
Both of these saws weigh over 500 lbs and are solid as a rock. I got the shop fox mobile base, but once I put the saw where I wanted it, I don't think I really needed it.
I also heard about moving the fence rail over to the right for more rip ability, but for now, I am going to leave it alone.
Everyone has there opinion on which saw better and why. You will just have to choose for yourself.
 
#11 ·
I got the 690 five years ago and love it. I was thinking about the "new" left tilt Delta at the time. $2,700.00 vs $1,400.00. All I read and heard about the 690 convinced me half price was worth the risk. I never regretted that decision. I can't imagine needing more or a better saw in my lifetime
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
As an engineer, I like the trunnion design of the 690 better. It s built like older Unisaws.
The 1023 has a setup that looks like a heavy duty version of the Ridgid 4512.
I only hear good things about either saw and would love to have either one, but given a choice, I d go for the 690 myself.

- Crank50
The 1023 uses a threaded screw and dovetail ways for vertical height adjust….the R4512 uses a swing arm, as does the G0690.

1023:


0690:
 
#13 ·
Some folks say the router table is asking for trouble. I guess that could be true. But if you are making something that is ripping and routing, as I did when building the custom coolers, it was really nice to cut a board, step over one step, turn the router on and round the edges of the board. Pretty spanky, I tell ya.
That's very helpful, and I'm glad to hear you've had a good experience with that saw. Two questions - first, why is the router table asking for trouble? Second, in your photos it looks like you don't have the support legs for the router table installed - does it not need them? When I spoke to a Grizzly rep he said that without the legs there's a good risk of cracking the cast iron, but if it's not really a big concern that would make my mobile base choice a lot easier. If the legs aren't necessary, I'm going to use a Shop Fox mobile base that uses a kick-down mechanism to lower the casters, but if the legs are important I'm going to put the entire thing on a big platform with six heavy-duty locking and braking casters for mobility.

So it sounds like this largely boils down to personal preference, with two points of consideration being that (a) the 690 has a Leeson motor, and (b) the 1023 has a better trunion system (or is that backwards). Anything else significant I should be thinking about? Thanks!
 
#14 ·
One of the things that made me buy the 690 was the belt system!
It has 3 V-belts and the 1023's have the Poly V-belt.
According to the manual for each saw, the 1023 belt requires the entire top of the saw to come off to be able to replace it and it also says as long as you are taking it apart, you should replace both arbor bearings.

The 690 has 3 belts that only has 2 bolts to loosen to adjust the tension and can be replaced without any problem and you don't need to take the top off.

I should also mention, that the poly belt on the 1023's is reported to last a very long time, but the thought of having to take the rails off, then the top just made me want the 690 even more.
 
#15 ·
Well, I asked myself this same question last week. My 1023RL should be delivered tomorrow. I liked the idea of the collector shroud around the bottom of the blade. I thought it would help collect the dust at the source better. It was also ever so slightly less money for me. Good luck in your decision. By the way, I ordered it on Wednesday and I received a call from the freight terminal on Friday to schedule delivery.
 
#16 ·
Well, I asked myself this same question last week. My 1023RL should be delivered tomorrow. I liked the idea of the collector shroud around the bottom of the blade. I thought it would help collect the dust at the source better. It was also ever so slightly less money for me. Good luck in your decision. By the way, I ordered it on Wednesday and I received a call from the freight terminal on Friday to schedule delivery.

- bazzz
I think I'm settled on the 1023. It sounds like everyone who's ordered one has been happy with it, and the built-in router table really is a big plus for me since my shop is all of 11'x17'. Thanks!
 
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm happy with my 1023. Had it for the last 5 years and it performs very well. Don't know anything about the other saw. I hung a Woodpeckers router table on the left side of the blade (with support legs) because I use an Incra TSIII fence. I really like the setup in that I can use the TSIII fence with a Wonder Fence for the router table too.
 
#18 ·
I'd really prefer to have the router table on the left side of the blade, but it's only $50 more to get the Grizzly saw with the router table (right side) than without - whereas an aftermarket router table to mount in the left wing would cost several hundred dollars (I don't have time to make one). I wonder if there's any way of modding the RLW to fit the router table on the left side?
 
#21 ·
Here are a couple of quick snapshots. I have a crowed garage/shop. :-(
The area to the left of my saw is my walking thru/working area. Dust collector on the right. I can still use the router table if I move things around, which I do a lot of every day. I have to plan and set up for each phase of a project's construction.

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#22 ·
Just so you know, that when you get the RLW with the router table, it's an extra $50 shipping. The RL is only $99 shipping and the RLW is $150. You could probably make a router table to fit on the right side between the rails. They are exactly 27" apart.
That's $115 to use for something else.
 
#23 ·
Sure. I will post later today or tonight. The table mounts to the rails for the TS III and butts up against the left hand cast iron wing and bolts/clamps to it. This puts the router far enough away from the motor door to open it almost all of the way without pulling the router insert, lift and router out of the table, which is only a 10 second job anyway..
 
#25 · (Edited by Moderator)
sawdustjunkie: I'm comfortable spending $115 to not have to build a router table myself - I have a 2.5 year old and a three month old, so at this point my free time is quite valuable. Plus, I want an iron router table because I have a plethora of magnetic featherboards and hold-down jigs. I had actually contemplated putting a thin sheet of steel over my Bosch (aluminum) router table just for this purpose.

Woodbum: Those pictures are helpful, thanks! You've got a pretty kickin' rad setup there. Sadly, I don't think the OEM router table is as big as the Woodpecker table, so I suppose it'll have to stay to the right of the blade. Oh well, at least that way I can add a configurable router fence to the backside of the saw fence (assuming I don't care about cutting left of the blade, which I don't).
 
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