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Shop Expansion. Is this a load bearing wall?

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Forum topic by DavidTTU posted 10-16-2014 07:53 PM 1403 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DavidTTU

116 posts in 1100 days


10-16-2014 07:53 PM

Topic tags/keywords: shop shop expansion load bearing wall

I wasnt sure which forum to put this under but I was hoping the community could offer some advice.

My shop is a one car garage that measures about 15×8. I believe somewhere down the line one of the owners added on to the garage with an 8×8 room. The room is sheet rocked and has a nice window in it as well. Currently it houses my yard tools, but I would really like to use that extra square footage for my woodshop. I have been doing research about load bearing walls, and I wanted to get some advice on rather or not I could take out the wall dividing my shop from this extra space.

I would hope to do it myself if it is just a partition wall, but I do not want to make any disastrous mistakes. If it needs a professional thats ok… I just want it done right. I apologize for the poor quality of these photos.

The first picture shows the wall in question. The second picture is of the ceiling trusses. the third picture shows the header at the wall. The fourth picture is from the other side of the wall in the room.


19 replies so far

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54curly

36 posts in 1259 days


#1 posted 10-16-2014 08:04 PM

It does not appear to be load bearing but it could be carrying some weight of the drywalled ceiling. it does appear to be the gable end of the existing building before the addition, gable ends are not load bearing except for the weight that is hanging directly on the framing. If you tear it out make sure to put a collar on the bottom of the rafters like the 2×6 running crossways in your 3rd picture or as a precaution you could run a header in place of the collar.

-- Curly, South Dakota! Now where did I put that board stretcher?

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WhyMe

614 posts in 1026 days


#2 posted 10-16-2014 08:08 PM

That’s not a truss built roof. It stick built using raters with a ridge board. That end wall is not load bearing.

Edit: How is the roof framed into that end of the garage for that added on room? Does the room have an ‘A’ roof running the same direction as the garage roof?

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DavidTTU

116 posts in 1100 days


#3 posted 10-16-2014 08:15 PM

Thanks for the advice curly. Let me check in when I get home and I will take some more pictures for you whyme.
Also thanks for the info on the build of the roof.

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firefighterontheside

13487 posts in 1321 days


#4 posted 10-16-2014 08:19 PM

Does the ridge beam stop at that wall? If it does then it’s a bearing wall.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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NoThanks

798 posts in 994 days


#5 posted 10-16-2014 09:04 PM

I’m no carpenter, but it looks bearing to me.
If you took out the 2 top plates there is nothing holding up the ridge beam in that point.
I could be wrong though, wouldn’t be the first.

-- Because I'm gone, that's why!

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Grandpa

3256 posts in 2140 days


#6 posted 10-16-2014 10:40 PM

Which direction are the ceiling joists going in the roof side of the building. If they are the same as the pictured side then you can put in enough bracing and supports to hold the ridge pole shown in photo 3. you can put in some temporary supports and remove the wall then set in an LVL beam to carry most anything if you need to do that.

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bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1185 days


#7 posted 10-16-2014 10:46 PM

Sort of is the best way to describe this scenario. If the wall is taken down, it is extremely unlikely anything would fall unless you try to do this with 20” of snow on the roof (I realize this is unlikely where you’re at). Both 2×4’s forming the double top plate are clearly not continuous as they need to be, the bottom of the two might be and that’s the important one. It is very important that the rafters be tied into this to allow it to hold the bottoms of the rafters from pushing the walls apart. Whatever the attic space above the added on room consists of could also be indicative of whether or not the wall can be removed. If you can take more pictures, specifically of the top of the wall and bottom of the rafters, perhaps a better answer could be offered. Pictures of the inside of the attic room could be helpful too.

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DavidTTU

116 posts in 1100 days


#8 posted 10-17-2014 12:34 AM

Thanks to everyone for the advice and help.
Big Yeti, here are a few more pictures of the set up.

These are the view from inside the attic on the addition

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DavidTTU

116 posts in 1100 days


#9 posted 10-17-2014 12:35 AM

Sorry the images are turned, I cannot figure out why they are turning when I am uploading.

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firefighterontheside

13487 posts in 1321 days


#10 posted 10-17-2014 12:54 AM

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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firefighterontheside

13487 posts in 1321 days


#11 posted 10-17-2014 12:56 AM

If the wall in question is under that scuttle hole then no doubt it is bearing the weight of that ridge beam. I think the best you are gonna be able to do is remove the wall and leave a post in the middle.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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TheFridge

5765 posts in 951 days


#12 posted 10-17-2014 01:20 AM

No matter what you can take the wall out. If 2×6 or 2×8 in the ridge is continuous through the wall you want to take out, you just need a ceiling joist in its place.

If it isn’t continuos, you can put a couple 2×4s where the wall you want gone meets the outside wall to support a header or beam, which will support your roof brace. Do not know how to size the beam, header or brace. Just know how it’s done.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View 54curly's profile

54curly

36 posts in 1259 days


#13 posted 10-17-2014 01:46 PM

Is the wall you are wanting to remove 15’ long or 8’ long? Rafters are built so that the majority of the weight is transferred to the exterior wall where they are seated. There is going to be some weight from the ridge board, most important is the collar or ceiling joist board to keep the exterior walls from bowing out, causing the ridge to sag. You can remove the wall up to the double plate and then install a header under the cripple studs, cut the bottom of the cripple studs off the same amount as the width of the header so that they set on the header. The header needs to set on top of the exterior walls, you will have to cut the angle of your roof pitch on the header material. If the wall is 8’ long you will need a couple of 2×8’s, if the wall is 15’ long you will need a couple of 2×12’s or a couple of LVL’s. These suggestions are a little over kill if the wall is only 8’ long. So that you know I have over 40 years of residential and commercial carpentry experience.

-- Curly, South Dakota! Now where did I put that board stretcher?

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DavidTTU

116 posts in 1100 days


#14 posted 10-17-2014 09:20 PM

Thanks everyone for all of the advice so far. It seems to me like there is a mix of opinions and the short answer is, it sort of is. I think my first step will be to open up a door way through the middle of the wall by removing the the two middle 2×4’s. Reassessing the situation after that is completed. Ideally, that wall would disappear and not just be a doorway.

Curly, the wall in question is 8 ft long.

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Buckethead

3140 posts in 1333 days


#15 posted 10-17-2014 09:58 PM

When all else fails, do what Reagan would do: Mr Gorbecev… TEAR DOWN THAT WALL.

Add a couple stiff backs at the tops of the ceiling joists to support that last joist prior to demo. I’m a humble framer. I would not hesitate.

-- Support woodworking hand models. Buy me a sawstop.

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