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Forum topic by natenaaron posted 10-15-2014 08:25 PM 1082 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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natenaaron

408 posts in 1261 days


10-15-2014 08:25 PM

My planes are plenty sharp. I just can’t seem to get them set up right. I have watched a lot of videos (probably all of them) about setting up a plane and I still can’t seem to align the blade.

Can someone please give me some pointers. Sure is getting frustrating.


13 replies so far

View JayT's profile

JayT

4782 posts in 1675 days


#1 posted 10-15-2014 08:45 PM

Can you be more specific about the blade alignment &/or post some pics? There’s quite a few possible small issues and we’d need more information to narrow it down.

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

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natenaaron

408 posts in 1261 days


#2 posted 10-15-2014 08:58 PM

Alignment. I will think I have it perfect do a test and the shaving will look fine. After a few shavings on the piece I am working on I see one side digging in. So I align again. Shouldn’t the blade stay aligned once it is set? I am thinking something is not right in the set up. Not tightened right or put in wrong.

Not sure how I could get pics of this. This is common among among all 4 of my planes so I am pretty positive it is what I am doing, not a problem with the plane.

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JayT

4782 posts in 1675 days


#3 posted 10-15-2014 09:25 PM

Sounds like either you are inadvertently bumping the lateral adjustment lever or the cap screw isn’t tight enough.

Shouldn t the blade stay aligned once it is set?

Yes and no. If everything is set up right, the lever cap screw should be tight enough to keep the iron from shifting by itself but loose enough to allow you to make lateral and depth adjustments as you are working. Try tightening the screw a quarter turn and see if it holds the setting better. It can take a bit of trial and error until you find the sweet spot that tensions the plane just right.

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

14583 posts in 2147 days


#4 posted 10-15-2014 09:29 PM

On some planes, it is possible to tightened things down, only to have the lateral lever’s end NOT in the slot on the iron/cutter.

Check for a gap between the frog and the iron. IF you tap the lever to one side or the other, and the iron suddenly “snaps” down into place, yep lateral lever was out. Makes things hard to set up. BTDT.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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JayT

4782 posts in 1675 days


#5 posted 10-15-2014 09:42 PM

^ Good point, bandit. I didn’t think of that, but have BTDT, as well.

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

View Fettler's profile

Fettler

200 posts in 1461 days


#6 posted 10-15-2014 11:13 PM

Typically you will chamfer the sides of the iron slightly during sharpening to prevent “tracking” which sounds like the problem you’re having. Irons should almost never be completely straight across. There is more curvature depending on how much material you’re removing. For example a progression of curvature is Scrub, Fore, Jointer, to smooth plane.

I use the Rob Cosman method of sharpening free hand. It works a lot better for me than using a honing guide. I establish a primary bevel on a coarse grit alum oxide grinder wheel. Locking my wrist in, i use ceramic stones to put a secondary/ter. bevel (1000 diamond, 4000/8000/16000 ceramic). The last step on the 16k stone is to apply slight pressure to each corner for a few seconds while moving in a circular pattern. This cuts down the corners.

Also, i’ve had some tracking issues due to little dings on the body of the plane. To address this i’m chamfer’d the edges of my sole with a file and then re-flattened on sand paper.

-- --Rob, Seattle, WA

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Fettler

200 posts in 1461 days


#7 posted 10-15-2014 11:18 PM

To set the initial iron depth / alignment:
1. Make sure you have plenty of light
2. Place a piece of white paper on your bench to use as a constrasting background
3. Look down the sole and advance the iron until you see a hair of the blade
4. Adjust the lateral adjustment lever to straighten the blade.
5. Retract the blade until you can barely see it or not at all.

If your eyes are bad you may need an optivisor. Also, if you have a crappy plane you could be at this all day (e.g. a groz). All planes take some fettling out of the box to get them working optimally. Best starter planes are Veritas or Woodriver which require minimal adjustments.

Good luck to you sir.

-- --Rob, Seattle, WA

View Don W's profile

Don W

17966 posts in 2031 days


#8 posted 10-15-2014 11:18 PM

What kind of plane? Does the lateral lever move or just the cutter?

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

View natenaaron's profile

natenaaron

408 posts in 1261 days


#9 posted 10-16-2014 11:29 PM

I have a Record No 7, Baily No5, Stanley No4 and a large old craftsman a lumberjock restored. I would say the blade depth stays put it is the tilt that changes. I put a camber on all of my blades so I don’t think that is the reason for the digging.

View Don W's profile

Don W

17966 posts in 2031 days


#10 posted 10-17-2014 12:57 AM

Let me rephrase my question. When you get the plane adjusted the lateral lever will be in a certain position. Once it starts to dig, is the lever in the same spot?

Try tightening the cap screw a little, although I think it would need to be obviously loose for it to move sideways. As stated, make sure you are not hitting the lever.

If the lever isn’t moving, and it’s in the slot, i’m at a loose to think of anything else you could be doing.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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natenaaron

408 posts in 1261 days


#11 posted 10-17-2014 08:36 PM

I will give it a shot. Thanks. I am pretty sure I not hitting the lever but who knows. People on the net make it look so easy.

View Don W's profile

Don W

17966 posts in 2031 days


#12 posted 10-17-2014 08:57 PM

You’ll get it. Keep at it.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

View buildingmonkey's profile

buildingmonkey

242 posts in 1012 days


#13 posted 10-20-2014 02:12 AM

I bought a Grizzly wet grinder, 8” for 89 $. Find it very good for sharpening plane blades. saves you all that honing on sandpaper and with wet stones. Also has a leather wheel for removing burs.

-- Jim from Kansas

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