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Biesemeyer fence and rails for $50 ??

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Forum topic by Charlie posted 10-15-2014 04:35 PM 2193 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Charlie

1100 posts in 1752 days


10-15-2014 04:35 PM

Talked to a guy on the phone yesterday. He’s getting rid of a bunch of woodworking stuff that he hasn’t used in several years. He brought it all with him when he moved here from California and never actually got to setting up a shop here.

One of the things on his list is a Biesemeyer fence and rails…. for $50

I’m going to check it out probably tomorrow… with money in hand. If it’s not trashed I’m going to pick it up. He’s also got an apparent boatload of clamps, but to be honest, I don’t have a ton of free cash on hand right now so I’ll probably have to pass on anything but the fence…. again…. if it’s not trashed.

I have a Steel City 35990G and the ONLY thing I’m not happy with on that saw is the fence and split front rail. I’m HOPING I can bolt up that Biesemeyer without too much trouble.

For $50 it’s worth a shot if I can get it and it’s not been abused to death. :)

Why did I post this when I don’t even have it (and may not get it)???
‘Cause I’m excited! That’s why… hehehe


20 replies so far

View JayT's profile

JayT

4785 posts in 1677 days


#1 posted 10-15-2014 04:39 PM

That’s a you suck waiting to happen, Charlie. Even if you have to do some modifications to the mounting rail on the Bies, it’ll be worth it for the improvement over the two piece front rail.

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

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shawnn

49 posts in 831 days


#2 posted 10-15-2014 04:49 PM

Even if abused and in need of some wear items it’s still a great deal considering how much they cost new. Cast iron drills & taps easily if new mounting holes are required, just buy a quality tap if you don’t have one.

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CharlesA

3024 posts in 1263 days


#3 posted 10-15-2014 04:51 PM

i paid $50 for a Shop Fox Classic (Bies clone) on CL several years ago—still my best CL score.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

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Charlie

1100 posts in 1752 days


#4 posted 10-15-2014 08:08 PM



Even if abused and in need of some wear items it s still a great deal considering how much they cost new. Cast iron drills & taps easily if new mounting holes are required, just buy a quality tap if you don t have one.

- shawnn

I have a granite top saw. :) So there will be no drillin’ and tappin’ of the saw table. :)
It would be easier for me to redrill the rail to match the saw table if that kind of modification is necessary.
My current front tube is 2” square. If the Biese is 2×3, I might be ok. Depends where all the holes fall. My front mounting rail is not 3×2 angle like I think the biesemeyer angle is (3” being the verticlec and 2” projection). But the biesemeyer front angle looks like it goes flush with the table top and has cutouts for the miter slots. My existing angle is set just flush to the bottom of the miter slots so there are no cutouts needed.

View nicksmurf111's profile

nicksmurf111

361 posts in 916 days


#5 posted 10-15-2014 08:23 PM

I don’t think you will have any trouble drilling a biesemeyer rail. I hope you like it enough to buy it, that would be a GREAT deal.

-- Nicholas

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1100 posts in 1752 days


#6 posted 10-16-2014 07:10 PM

OK…. pictures.
This is what I bought for $50


Rail and tube general


Left end of rail and tube


tube and tape


right end of rail and tube


tube general condition


back rail


left end of back rail


fence adjusting screws. I’ve backed them out and sprayed with WD40


fence lock lever and reticle


nameplate


ooops. Someone ran the fence into a spinning blade. :) (not me of course)


underside of fence


fence innards

The mounting rails and tube are all straight. Mounting this is going to be an adventure as NONE of the holes line up with my SC 35990G. The sides of the fence are delaminating. I’m assuming I’d have to peel off that lamination to get at those screws holding the sides on. The screws look like self tappers.

I can see the notch that you’re supposed to use to line up the front rail and tube to the blade. That would make the left end of the rail not even go to the left edge of the wing. Considering that I have never cut anything on the left of my blade, I’m not sure if that’s a big deal. If I have to shift the front mounting rail left a little, then the measuring tape on the tube will need to be replaced.

There is no “foot” on the fence to ride on the back rail. So apparently the back rail does nothing but serve as an attachment for an extension table on the right side. So once I get to where I’m ready to mount this thing I’ll have to also build the extension table (yay!)

First order of business is to do some serious cleaning and see what I can do about the rusted areas.
I might be able to use the existing front mounting rail as a template to layout the drilling of the biesemeyer rail. Then I’ll be pondering how best to go after getting it ready for mounting. THEN I’ll make some decisions as to painting and possibly redoing the tape measure.

So…. how’d I do? Is this still a gloat with all that has to be done to USE it? :)

View JayT's profile

JayT

4785 posts in 1677 days


#7 posted 10-16-2014 07:15 PM

That’s the 50in rail system, too. Nice! A little cleanup and maybe a new paint job to keep rust at bay and you should be in business. Are you going to build an extension table to take advantage of the rail length?

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

View nicksmurf111's profile

nicksmurf111

361 posts in 916 days


#8 posted 10-16-2014 07:19 PM

I’m jealous. Are you into painting tools? I typically don’t paint tools.

Let us know how many of the holes line up with your table saw.

-- Nicholas

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1100 posts in 1752 days


#9 posted 10-16-2014 07:50 PM



I m jealous. Are you into painting tools? I typically don t paint tools.

Let us know how many of the holes line up with your table saw.

- nicksmurf111

Like…. NONE of the holes line up. :)

I’m not a stickler for a pretty paint job, but I’d paint these parts to make them easier to clean and to help prevent rust. My shop is not heated full time. I’m more concerned with it WORKING right than how it looks. But a little time with some paint prep means a lot less time fighting rust :)

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1100 posts in 1752 days


#10 posted 10-16-2014 07:51 PM



That s the 50in rail system, too. Nice! A little cleanup and maybe a new paint job to keep rust at bay and you should be in business. Are you going to build an extension table to take advantage of the rail length?

- JayT

If this mounts up where I think it’s going to mount, then yeah, I’ll need the table to the right. Otherwise the extra rail length is useless. The fence has nothing to sit on once you shove it off the wing to the right.

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nicksmurf111

361 posts in 916 days


#11 posted 10-16-2014 07:57 PM

Have fun drilling! There is absolutely no reason why it wouldn’t mount…it’s a piece of angle iron with a notch to fit around each miter slot.

-- Nicholas

View David_H's profile

David_H

90 posts in 784 days


#12 posted 10-17-2014 03:14 AM

I got real lucky last year, I found a cheap craftsman contractor saw on eBay, only paid $30 for the saw drove three hours to pick it up. The seller had left it on the drive way for me to load, and guess what was sitting on the saw! An in decent shape biesemeyer fence with 70 inch rail. I only bought the saw for back up parts! Lol instill havent put it on, it will be used when I find finish rehabbing my pm65 saw I bought for $75.00.

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1100 posts in 1752 days


#13 posted 10-17-2014 01:27 PM

I think my thinking cap will be working overtime trying to figure out the best way to get the front angle iron mounting rail drilled to match the holes in my table saw. The spacing isn’t hard to figure out. I can make a template from the existing angle iron. Getting the height …. that’ll be a bit more of a challenge. I think the part of the angle iron to which the front tube gets mounted, has to be 2-7/8 from the top of the table. I’m going to have to figure out a jig of some sort just to get the hole locations marked on the biesemeyer mounting angle. If I set the angle just a teeny bit low, I can shim the tube up. But if I set it too high, well that would be bad I think.

Tell me if this is correct…
I want the fence to rest flat on the table saw, and the front tube needs to be at a height where the fence is resting on the tube and up off the table just a hair. Like…. the bottom of the fence itself has a “pad” of that slippery plastic stuff. Maybe a 1/16 thick. So the end of the fence closest to the front edge of the table should be held off the table by that same amount because it’s resting on the front tube. ... Basically the entire length of the fence shouldn’t be dragging on the table. The fence should touch the table where that pad is and should rest on the front tube so the bottom of the fence is just ever-so-slightly above the table.

right?

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1100 posts in 1752 days


#14 posted 10-18-2014 02:35 PM

Whew….
front rail drilled and mounted.

This is adding a TON of space to the right of the blade and there’s nearly none to the left, which is actually fine with me as I haven’t done any ripping on the left anyways.

The wood at either end isn’t supporting anything. I just used it to hold the angle iron while I was bolting it up for this test fit. I have supported the long overhang while I’m waiting to take it all back off again to clean it up for a fresh paint job. I was debating painting it, but …. it kinda looks crappy like it is. I might be able to get the guy next door to take the pieces to work and paint them with a good quality paint. He paints cars at a collision shop.

The picture above shows how it aligned. That yellow steel rule is against the blade and the little notch in the angle iron is supposed to be lined up with the blade-side edge of the rule as close as possible to get reticle centered on the 0 mark of the tape measure. I think I got really close. :)

Pic above shows how far above the table the fence is floating. Looks like more than it actually is because of shadow, but it’s right about 1/16. I have to replace the fence “skins” anyways as they are beyond repair, but… I need a table saw with a fence to make new skins! :) I’m just going to mount my original fence after I take this front rail off.

This was one of those “measure 30 times in 8 or 10 different ways and THEN mark the holes and drill them” kind of projects. AND…. I drilled them with a hand held. Could have done them in the drill press, but…..

I don’t have any way to counterbore the angle iron for the button head allen screws that hold it on. So…. the fence whacks the screw heads if I slide it from the lock handle end. No problem if I move it by grabbing the middle. I have room to add some pieces of 1.8” aluminum between the screws and so I might do that. That’s a “wait and see” if it’s really an issue. And it might be.

I still have to do the back rail, but that’s nowhere near as critical as the front rail since the back one doesn’t really do anything more than support the table extension. The back rail DOES create an awesome support for an outfeed table though. THAT might be something I’d be interested in.

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

7483 posts in 1473 days


#15 posted 10-18-2014 04:52 PM

Well, no one has actually said it yet. So let me be the first…

YOU SUCK !

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

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