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Can modify a Freud FT2200VCE to work under router table?

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Forum topic by Holbs posted 10-13-2014 11:25 PM 4018 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Holbs

1377 posts in 1494 days


10-13-2014 11:25 PM

I already have a Bosch 1617EVS and a Bosch Colt for handheld and misc routing adventures. I also have a Freud FT2200VCE 3-1/4HP plunge router that has been collecting dust. I would like this Freud to be in my next project of a dedicated router table with a DIY router lift. Of course, this is an older router that will not raise above the table. So I was thinking… is it possible to disassemble / edit / cut off the lift posts & base all together? I could remove any moving parts and take a grinder to the posts, allowing the router collets and nuts to fully protrude enough through the top of the router retaining plate.

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"


6 replies so far

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Handtooler

1374 posts in 1597 days


#1 posted 10-13-2014 11:54 PM

MLCS has a lift for that router. I also have that router and intend to install it in a lift. Maybe Stumpy Nubs can assist in your DIY endeavor without disrupting that fine router?

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 bassboy40@outlook.com

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Holbs

1377 posts in 1494 days


#2 posted 10-14-2014 12:07 AM

Will have to look at this MLCS lift, as I could not figure out any other way to change bits easily from above the table. Modifying the plunging aspect of this router is a viable option as it’s 3rd down the ladder that i use. So i feel it is expendable to modify.

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"

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patron

13538 posts in 2806 days


#3 posted 10-14-2014 12:18 AM

try this bit extender

both 1/4” and 1/2”

edit : they both fit in a 1/2” collet
one will take 1/4” bits
not for 1/4” collets

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_collet.html

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3945 posts in 1958 days


#4 posted 10-14-2014 11:34 AM

I used a Freud FT2000 (basically the same router) for may years in a router table. I’m not sure I’d do that to get above the table features, but that’s just me. However, the hole in the base isn’t large enough to lower the largest panel raisers down past the base opening. So one thing I did do was open up that hole so those large bits could be lowered. As for the above the table part, I still don’t have that on my current setup (sold the Freud and the lift) and it just doesn’t seem to me to be that big an inconvenience. Anyway, back to the router, that’s a great router in a table and I eventually put mine in a Woodpecker plunge lift.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View BorkBob's profile

BorkBob

124 posts in 2158 days


#5 posted 10-14-2014 02:05 PM

Here’s what I did. Remove the depth stop mechanism entirely. Where a ball bearing was seated under the depth stop rotating plate, drill a 1/4” hole thru the base. Where the depth stop rod passed thru the double holes of the router body, insert the spring from the depth stop rod catch and a 3/8-16 square nut.

Thread a 3/8=16×6” bolt from the top of the router thru the square nut. Install a 3/8” hex nut on the bolt. Insert a 1/4-20×1.5” socket head screw thru the hole that was drilled thru the base. Put a nut on the 1/4” screw. Join the screw to the bolt with a 3/8” x 1/4” coupling nut. Tighten the 1/4” nut and the 3/8” nut to lock it all together.

I use a small cordless screwdriver for gross adjustment and a hex key for fine. One full turn = 1/16” height.

Edit to add: It’s been a few years and the photo reminded me that I eliminated the 3/8” hex nut because it restricted raising the router for bit changes. Just tighten the bolt good and tight against the 1/4” screw.

-- Please Pray for Our Troops / Semper Fi / Bob Ross / www.theborkstore.com

View Lumberpunk's profile

Lumberpunk

323 posts in 1802 days


#6 posted 10-14-2014 02:13 PM

This is what I came up with:

The Project:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/80048

The Blog

http://lumberjocks.com/Lsmart/blog/34666

This worked pretty well but I would add some sort of rail/runner system on the carriage for extra support… with this system you need to bolt your insert plate down to the table or it will lift off when you turn the crank.

I found I could slip a screwdriver in to engage the collet lock and the nut poked up just enough to get the collet wrench in.

Good Luck!

-- If someone tells you you have enough tools and don't need any more, stop talking to them, you don't need that kind of negativity in your life.

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