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Forum topic by kwolfe posted 10-13-2014 04:09 PM 1228 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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kwolfe

108 posts in 1029 days


10-13-2014 04:09 PM

So I sold my table saw. My mom wanted to buy me a sawstop contractor saw for my 40th birthday. I love the safety part, however that’s a lot of money for just a saw. Therefore, in order to out my dear mom’s mind at ease and create a good shop I was thinking about getting a bandsaw and track saw.

I already have a 6” ridgid jointer, 12” miter saw, thickness planer and router. I figure I could cut down sheet goods and long board with the track saw (dewalt or festool) and use the bandsaw saw for ripping and general cutting of hard wood.

So the big question is, what bandsaw. I was looking at the grizzly 513 series which really ranges in price from $850 all the way to the x2b for $1350. Also, if I went all the wY to the make, would I be better of getting the 514 (19”)’ with the brake? I don’t really need overkill, but I would like some that could rip a board straight with only minor cleaning up after.

Can the 513 actually handle a 1” blade. I figure I would spring for a Lenox trimaster as my main rip/resaw blade.


15 replies so far

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

17170 posts in 2570 days


#1 posted 10-13-2014 04:29 PM

The 513 says it will take a 1” blade but it only has 2 hp? You need power to run a big blade!

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

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kwolfe

108 posts in 1029 days


#2 posted 10-13-2014 04:45 PM

Do you need power to run the blade or power to cut through thick stuff? The reason for the larger blade would be to use it to rip wood with only minor jointing after.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4456 posts in 3425 days


#3 posted 10-13-2014 05:03 PM

I use both a band saw and a table saw. There are those who would say that the band saw is all you need. I don’t agree.
Might wanna rethink the issue.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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kwolfe

108 posts in 1029 days


#4 posted 10-13-2014 06:21 PM

So that’s one vote for the sawstop contractor saw.

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CharlesA

3022 posts in 1262 days


#5 posted 10-13-2014 06:33 PM

How much more is the SS contractor than a Festool tracksaw outfitted as you would need it?

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

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kwolfe

108 posts in 1029 days


#6 posted 10-13-2014 07:16 PM

Sawstop would be close to $1800. Track saw would be around $700

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3022 posts in 1262 days


#7 posted 10-13-2014 07:18 PM

Ok. I thought the tracksaw would require some more track, connections, etc. for it to be usable, but I may be wrong.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

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Surfside

3389 posts in 1638 days


#8 posted 10-13-2014 08:34 PM

You’ll need both saws eventually.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

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kwolfe

108 posts in 1029 days


#9 posted 10-13-2014 10:58 PM


You ll need both saws eventually.

- Surfside


Not really helping me man. :)

I would love to have both, but right now, space and money (especially money) are not on my side. I’ve used a track saw once before and you can get very good quality cuts from one that has the right blade. If I get a sawstop, it will only be the sawstop. If I go the other route, then I can afford the track saw (dewalt is $600 with two tracks) and a good sized bandsaw. Large crosscuts can be left to the track saw (and maybe homemade mft) and smaller pieces can be done safely and quitely on the bandsaw.

This would also leave the bandsaw for resawing thicker stock, cutting tenons, and cutting curves. Don’t get me wrong, the ease and repeatability from a table saw is great, but on my budget, I think that the route I’m thinking of taking would give me more flexibility.

One day I hope ton aver both but for now this seems like the right direction. My big question is whether the 17” will be good enough for ripping? Can it effectively use a 1” Lenox carbide blade or do I have to go to a 19” for that?

View OggieOglethorpe's profile

OggieOglethorpe

1213 posts in 1575 days


#10 posted 10-13-2014 11:21 PM

I’m not helping, either…

Track saws are great, when you CAN’T have a table saw, and I l “loves me” an excellent band saw. A table saw is the centerpiece of a modern shop, doing everything from ripping, to crosscuts at any angle, to things like splines, cutting dovetail tails, dados and rabbets, tapers, and even one pass tenons… And with a basic flat floor, one runner sled, fence riding sled, and L fence, even more… and all of it extremely safely.

Sorry, man… ;^)

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4226 posts in 1663 days


#11 posted 10-13-2014 11:47 PM

For the price range you are looking at ($850-$1350) you could get a nice cabinet saw and bandsaw if you are not dead set on buying new. If you are worried about your mom, just tell her it’s a sawstop.. she will probably never know the difference :-)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View kwolfe's profile

kwolfe

108 posts in 1029 days


#12 posted 10-14-2014 12:11 AM

I know I know. If it wasn’t a sawstop, this conversation probably wouldn’t be taking place but it is. I also like the safety.

As far as dados, rebates, dovetails etc, I am actually one of those people who prefer using a router for these. I find it faster and easier than setting up a dado stack. Especially for me since I would have it all set up for just a few cuts.

So do I need a 17” or 19”? I have heard that a 17” shouldn’t really use any bigger than a 3/4 blade, especially if it’s carbide tipped. Can you rip well with a 3/4 or do I need to go to a 19” to run a full 1” carbide? Does it really make a difference?

View Loren's profile

Loren

8307 posts in 3112 days


#13 posted 10-14-2014 12:18 AM

An 18” or larger band saw is nice to have for making
furniture. Consider the extra throat room for making
templates, notching dust panels and things of that
ilk.

I have noticed this from experience. I’m not hung
up on resaw capacity but I do appreciate a wider
than 14” throat.

If you focus on the band saw, the table saw
diminishes in usefulness for furniture. A small
table saw is useful for cutting tenon shoulders
however. A vintage tilt-top model will do
and has a small footprint.

View b67mack's profile

b67mack

59 posts in 884 days


#14 posted 10-14-2014 12:29 AM

my TS quit and I was going to buy both of those too

bought a nice old Unisaw instead

View kwolfe's profile

kwolfe

108 posts in 1029 days


#15 posted 10-14-2014 06:43 PM

Well I did it! Just order my G0513X2F. Really wanted to spend the extra little to get the X2 and the foot brake for safer operation. Also order the Dewalt track saw which comes with a 59” and 102” rail for $580. Not just need to run a 220v outlet to the garage while I’m finishing my shed shop.

BTW, I told my wife about this post and she said “why don’t you get them both?”. What!? I said. So who knows, maybe a sawstop will be in the somewhat near future. I want to see how this system goes first.

Thanks everyone for your input. I’ll try and keep everyone posted with the, not so conventional, shop.

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