HF Polisher on cast iron?

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Forum topic by Matt Przybylski posted 10-12-2014 02:05 PM 1658 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Matt Przybylski

566 posts in 2579 days

10-12-2014 02:05 PM

Topic tags/keywords: buffing wax

I’m never able to get a nice sheen on my cast iron so I was thinking of going the power tool route to buff the wax out and using this:

Would this work? I’m assuming I’d need to use a buffing pad instead and it looks like someone in the comments converted it to do just that. If this is not the way to go, which of their tools would work for this best? I’d like to spend as little as possible as this tool will be used only for this purpose and nothing else. I use Johnson’s paste wax on my machines.

Also, when you apply your wax, how liberal are you and how long do you wait before buffing it out? What do you apply it with? I usually just use a paper towel, is that wrong?

Apologies for the ignorant questions but I never really learned the proper way to do all this before I started woodworking and I feel like I’m doing it improperly every time :/

-- Matt, Arizona,

9 replies so far

View TravisH's profile


627 posts in 2136 days

#1 posted 10-12-2014 03:41 PM

As long as the cast is smooth to the touch I am good, not for sure about sheen. I don’t see much need for any more effort than the quick and easy. My main concern is to keep the rust at bay (outside shop no climate control). Any time I have had rust I clean it up with some steel wool util smooth and then wax. I use a paper towel to slap some on and spread till everything is covered (thin haze) and let it dry (10 minutes or so) Then just wipe off with a towel. I get a good year up to two before I do it again.

Based on your project pics I think you are good as is based on the cast iron condition.

View a1Jim's profile


117328 posts in 3778 days

#2 posted 10-12-2014 03:59 PM

I just use a random orbital sander and auto rubbing compound with a scotch Brite pad underneath the sander to clean metal surfaces this removes dirt,and rust very very. after using the rubbing compound I just use a soft rag under the ROS to clean up the excess compound and more rags to apply the wax and then buff it out,all done with the ROS. This works very well.
The secret to using say automotive wax or even floor wax is not to use to much,just enough to cover the surface then let it dry(it usually turns into a white haze when dry) and then buff it out.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View SCOTSMAN's profile


5849 posts in 3786 days

#3 posted 10-12-2014 06:51 PM

a1 jim is spot on as usual JIM Pal however I always apply some clear wax polish leave it on for ten minutes after the rub doiwn then wipe it all off very similar to JIm it will also work better mysaws just allow the wood to glide along since I used this method. Don’t get into the lazy bad habit of using your tablesaw worktop for example to be a workbench where glue gets all over it and p[aint etc Laugh if you will I have seen it done and I have seen people using their lathes to spray varnish or even colour spray paint painting things while they are still in the chuck unbeklievable til you see it with your own eyes.LOL Alistair ps the world is full of tools fools.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View nuttree's profile


280 posts in 3525 days

#4 posted 10-12-2014 11:02 PM

Sounds like I’m in the minority here, but I don’t “wax” the table. I spray it with Boeshield T-9 and have never had a problem.

-- I only went out for a walk and finally concluded to stay out till sundown, for going out, I found, was really going in. -John Muir

View waho6o9's profile


8523 posts in 2778 days

#5 posted 10-12-2014 11:11 PM

Use coarse and medium and then use MAAS metal polish.
Klingspor also offers a fine sanding block.

Excellent thread:

Here’s the results on my old try square:


View TravisH's profile


627 posts in 2136 days

#6 posted 10-13-2014 12:31 AM

Sounds like I m in the minority here, but I don t “wax” the table. I spray it with Boeshield T-9 and have never had a problem.

- nuttree

I bought a can a year ago and then figured I would put it on in the spring once it warmed up. Well now spring and summer have gone and I still haven’t done it. Maybe this week will be the one.

View poopiekat's profile


4386 posts in 3935 days

#7 posted 10-13-2014 01:52 AM

Boeshield is a good product, but be SURE to use only in a well-vented area, or use breathing apparatus. I’m not usually affected by aerosol solvents, but this stuff took my breath away and I’d thought I would never get it back!

-- Einstein: "The intuitive mind is a sacred gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." I'm Poopiekat!!

View Matt Przybylski's profile

Matt Przybylski

566 posts in 2579 days

#8 posted 10-13-2014 02:28 PM

@a1Jim: What kind of rubbing compound do you suggest? A specific brand or even better a link would be great. And I apologize for the extremely ignorant question, but when everyone says Scotch Brite pads what are they referring to? These?

I use those for kitchen cleaning and sometimes to clean my cast iron if its showing signs of rust but I’m not sure that’s what everyone is always talking about. And when you use the rag under the ROS, do you have any sandpaper on it under the rag or is it just the hook and loop part then the rag?

@waho6o9: I actually have all 3 of the Klingspor sand blocks and use them but they are only really good for spot duty, not for a whole top or 5 :) I will have to take a look at the Maas polish though, that looks very promising.

@nuttree: I actually have some T-9 as well but the sprayer on it is terrible and doesn’t really spray a mis, it leaks drips so I avoid using it :(

-- Matt, Arizona,

View a1Jim's profile


117328 posts in 3778 days

#9 posted 10-13-2014 02:57 PM


The scotch brite looks like this

but there are many places you can buy these type of pads for less than 3m brand ,such as dollar stores.

The rubbing compound comes in different grits you don’t need super duty to get the job done.

As far as wax goes make sure it does not have silicone in will contaminate you wood and possibly your whole shop ,making all of your finishes have what is called birds eyes.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

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