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Broken rear tail pieces on table saw insert plate

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Forum topic by Paul Bucalo posted 10-11-2014 04:28 PM 839 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Paul Bucalo

623 posts in 822 days


10-11-2014 04:28 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tool tablesaw

I have never owned a tool that worked so hard against me. Just when I thought I had this thing licked, it twacked me again with a forehead smack. So the Skilsaw 3410-02 saga continues. You now have permission to groan.

Today is the first day of a long weekend, one in which I planned on getting quite a few projects done on and around the house. The weather is as good as can be hoped for this time of year. There won’t be many more days like today, so even though I am still recovering from the latest designer flu bug I have no choice but to dive into these time/weather sensitive projects.

One such project is to get the table saw ready for some serious cutting. To that end, I decided to swap out the Skilsaw 28T combo blade with a DeWalt 32T Construction grade blade I bought months ago. The DeWalt blade offered more teeth, better quality and design, plus an anti-friction covering on the sides that should insure smoother cuts.

Now, a growing problem I have, one that has become more noticeable over time, is a propensity to drop things. Old age? Maybe. At any rate, my first attempt to loosen the blade came with an ‘oopsy’ moment and the outer wrench nose-dived through the insert opening and onto the table the saw is temporarily on. Naturally, I didn’t pay enough attention to the new blade and removed insert plate sitting on top of the saw as I carefully lifted the front edge of the base off the table to get at the fallen wrench. Bang went the new saw blade and insert plate onto the porch’s hardwood floor. Jeeze-Louise, how stupid can I get? The saw blade was still in its protective blister packaging, so no harm done there. The insert plate…well, take a look:

The left side tail piece (what is that called, anyway?) fell off. The right one was loose, so I took it off. Okay, fine. I messed up and now I need to re-glue these back on. What glue do I use? Here is a close-up to show you what the old glue looks like. It reminds me of LePage mucilage glue of days gone by, but very hard, not brittle at all:

If you know what I should use or have a recommendation, please comment. I need to get this fixed, pronto. Thanks.

-- -- Paul Bucalo, Norwich NY USA


8 replies so far

View kaerlighedsbamsen's profile

kaerlighedsbamsen

1177 posts in 1176 days


#1 posted 10-11-2014 04:42 PM

Dont look like they have any function. Solution: Use the saw with out.

-- "Do or Do not. There is no try." - Yoda

View luv2learn's profile

luv2learn

2462 posts in 1766 days


#2 posted 10-11-2014 04:45 PM

My first thought, is make yourself a zero clearance insert out of hardboard or MDF using this one as a pattern. I would hate to see you patch this one up and then have it break again while the saw is running.

-- Lee - Northern idaho~"If the women don't find you handsome, at least they ought to find you handy"~ Red Green

View Paul Bucalo's profile

Paul Bucalo

623 posts in 822 days


#3 posted 10-11-2014 05:38 PM



Dont look like they have any function. Solution: Use the saw with out.

- kaerlighedsbamsen

If I leave the tail pieces out, the fed wood would hit the leading edge of the table at the end of the insert. I have to glue these in if I want to use the insert plate.

-- -- Paul Bucalo, Norwich NY USA

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Paul Bucalo

623 posts in 822 days


#4 posted 10-11-2014 05:45 PM



My first thought, is make yourself a zero clearance insert out of hardboard or MDF using this one as a pattern. I would hate to see you patch this one up and then have it break again while the saw is running.

- luv2learn

While it is possible to make a zero-insert for this table saw, that requires using the original insert to make it happen. The reason for this is the stock metal insert is only 3/32” thick and its thin, shallow depth rests are a part of the aluminum top. I could make a replacement out of an indestructible plastic, but that would be more cost and headaches than I am willing to give to the problem right now. I need to get the table saw back into action today.

-- -- Paul Bucalo, Norwich NY USA

View KayBee's profile

KayBee

1083 posts in 2709 days


#5 posted 10-11-2014 05:45 PM

They look, and sound, like shims. They give enough height to clear the table edge and not hang up. Make a new insert, just make it thicker than the original metal insert. You can always sand it down if it’s too high.

-- Karen - a little bit of stupid goes a long way

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Paul Bucalo

623 posts in 822 days


#6 posted 10-11-2014 05:47 PM

I decided to try re-gluing with epoxy. I scraped the old glue off with a wide chisel and then cleaned up with denatured alcohol. I should know in an hour how it turned out.

-- -- Paul Bucalo, Norwich NY USA

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Paul Bucalo

623 posts in 822 days


#7 posted 10-11-2014 05:50 PM



They look, and sound, like shims. They give enough height to clear the table edge and not hang up. Make a new insert, just make it thicker than the original metal insert. You can always sand it down if it s too high.

- KayBee

As mentioned before, this saw uses a very thin insert plate that can’t be replicated safely in wood alone. No one sells a zero-clearance insert for the saw for this reason. The only method I have found on the Web is as follows:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/make-zero-clearance-throat-plate-insert-10147/

This is what I will probably do in the future, buying an additional replacement insert from Skil saw I can keep one pristine for angled cuts. For now, gluing is the first option.

-- -- Paul Bucalo, Norwich NY USA

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Paul Bucalo

623 posts in 822 days


#8 posted 10-11-2014 08:50 PM

I used the same chisel to clean off any glue that seeped out. It’s barely tacky to the touch with the kind of give that hard candy has. I think this will work just fine. Let’s hope so.

I should keep tabs on all my fixes and improvements and send Skil the compilation.

-- -- Paul Bucalo, Norwich NY USA

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