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Forum topic by MissouriOutdoors88 posted 10-09-2014 05:45 PM 1580 views 0 times favorited 25 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MissouriOutdoors88

334 posts in 799 days


10-09-2014 05:45 PM

I’m looking into buying a portable bracket that attaches to chainsaw to act as a portable mill since I currently don’t have te money for a big one. Any decently priced product you’d recommend?

-- I'm an aspiring woodworker with a degree in Biology.


25 replies so far

View mahdee's profile

mahdee

3548 posts in 1228 days


#1 posted 10-09-2014 05:58 PM

I would recommend saving your money to get a decent one. They cut very slow and wear you out in the process. I used to have this saw and it worked great for what I was doing with it (building a house). Despite being self-propelled, it was tedious work and time consuming. I can have a guy here make me a nice band saw, sawmill that cuts 46” wide, 18 horse with a starter for $4700. After sharpening a 42” chainsaw every 6 or 7 pass, I have learned a lot of patience.

-- earthartandfoods.com

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MissouriOutdoors88

334 posts in 799 days


#2 posted 10-09-2014 06:19 PM

I’ve seen some pretty good reviews for some. I just don’t have the money right now for a legit one. What’s the cheapest decent one out there? As far as mills go.

-- I'm an aspiring woodworker with a degree in Biology.

View gridlockd's profile

gridlockd

141 posts in 1845 days


#3 posted 10-09-2014 06:49 PM

I own a Granberg CSM that I use quite frequently. I like it and it does the job for me, since I don’t saw huge logs. These CSM’s work just fine as long as you keep a couple things in mind: make sure your chainsaw is powerful enough for the job. if buy this CSM and try to attach it to a homelite or poulan 40cc saw, you’ll be supremely disappointed. if you run a 20” bar, you need to have at least 60cc preferably more. also, as mrjinx007 said, definitely have patience. I used mine just this past weekend cutting a 7’ long slab for an outdoor bench. it took me close to 45 min. to cut the top and bottom. it is a slow process. and very physical work too.
at any rate, if none of those things dissuade you, the Granberg is a solid piece of equipment. haven’t had any problems out of mine so far.

-- Gridlockd

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Case101

107 posts in 1253 days


#4 posted 10-09-2014 08:27 PM

Gridlockd,
Do you put a ripping chain on the chainsaw?

-- John, New Jersey

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MissouriOutdoors88

334 posts in 799 days


#5 posted 10-09-2014 08:33 PM

Would a model like that attach to just about any chainsaw? I have an older stihl 16” blade. I don’t need to cut real wide stuff.

-- I'm an aspiring woodworker with a degree in Biology.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2151 days


#6 posted 10-09-2014 08:42 PM

I tried the Alaskan Chainsaw Mill with a Jonserad saw. I was burning a tank of fuel per 6’ cut, working WAY too hard, and getting a pretty ragged cut. Found a WoodMizer LT15 on CL and have been a happy camper ever since!

Chainsaw milling is a sport for the young, stout, and patient! I am none of those.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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gridlockd

141 posts in 1845 days


#7 posted 10-10-2014 07:47 PM


Gridlockd,
Do you put a ripping chain on the chainsaw?
- Case101

No, I don’t use a ripping chain. I find that I get just as good a cut with a standard chain. Obviously it’s not band saw quality cuts, but you can’t honestly expect that with a chainsaw.


Would a model like that attach to just about any chainsaw? I have an older stihl 16” blade. I don t need to cut real wide stuff.

- MissouriOutdoors88

I’m not sure that will work on a 16” bar. seems like 18” is the smallest they recommend.

Just remember, you can’t go into this expecting dimensional, ready to glue up planks. no matter which tool you use, chainsaw or bandsaw mill, this will still need to be planed, jointed, etc. to make it smooth.

-- Gridlockd

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MissouriOutdoors88

334 posts in 799 days


#8 posted 10-10-2014 08:11 PM

Yea, I’m looking into a planar as well. Thanks for the advice!

-- I'm an aspiring woodworker with a degree in Biology.

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MissouriOutdoors88

334 posts in 799 days


#9 posted 10-10-2014 08:14 PM

How tall of lumber can you put in most benchtop planers? Could you do 4×4s?

-- I'm an aspiring woodworker with a degree in Biology.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2151 days


#10 posted 10-11-2014 01:08 AM



How tall of lumber can you put in most benchtop planers? Could you do 4×4s?

- MissouriOutdoors88

yep, you can do 4×4s

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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MissouriOutdoors88

334 posts in 799 days


#11 posted 10-11-2014 01:37 AM

Would you recommend a portable benchtop one or one like this:

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/tls/4697012230.html

-- I'm an aspiring woodworker with a degree in Biology.

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

3666 posts in 1181 days


#12 posted 10-11-2014 01:49 AM

Ideally, you’d have a jointer and a planer. The jointer will flatten one side while squaring it to one adjacent side and it flattens by referencing the side that is being flattened. A planer flatten one side referencing the opposite side. I had a Stihl MS660 and cutting through 20” of most hardwoods was still painfully slow with a ripping chain sharpened down far enough to reduce the kerf another 10% or so from that of a new chain. I’ve found a local guy that I pay by the cut and he’s pretty reasonable.

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firefighterontheside

13448 posts in 1317 days


#13 posted 10-11-2014 02:09 AM

MO, I have this Haddon lumber maker. The cheapest thing I think you can do and very portable. When I built my log home I made a lot of stuff with it. I made all the hand rails in my loft out of eastern red cedar with it. It just mounts on your bar and then slides along a 2×4 attached to the log. You’re not gonna cut miles of lumber with it, but you can make something. Definitely get a bench top planer before that jointer you posted.
http://www.amazon.com/Haddon-Lumbermaker/dp/B009L6CJXA

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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MissouriOutdoors88

334 posts in 799 days


#14 posted 10-11-2014 02:17 AM

So with that thing you would nail a 2×4 to the log you’re cutting and run the saw along it?

-- I'm an aspiring woodworker with a degree in Biology.

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MissouriOutdoors88

334 posts in 799 days


#15 posted 10-11-2014 02:19 AM

Also I called a guy who mills for people full time now since he’s retired. He lives only 10 miles from me. Anyway, he charges 25 cents per board foot of what you get milled (end product). Is that a good deal?

-- I'm an aspiring woodworker with a degree in Biology.

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