Stanley No65 set up (?'s)

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Forum topic by ajthomas5009 posted 10-09-2014 01:33 PM 1037 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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296 posts in 1644 days

10-09-2014 01:33 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tip question trick plane refurbishing joining sharpening

I have a No65 I restored a while back that I’m finally attempt to sharpen and set up properly. For the most part everything is as straight forward as it gets with so few moving parts. Where im having trouble is sharpening the blade square as square as possible because from what I can tell there is no lateral adjustment on this model. Can someone experienced with this model tell me how close to square the bevel needs to be or where the lateral adjust is, if there is one.



-- Sometimes you're flush and sometimes you're bust, and when you're up, it's never as good as it seems, and when you're down, you never think you'll be up again, but life goes on.

3 replies so far

View OSU55's profile


1701 posts in 2016 days

#1 posted 10-09-2014 02:18 PM

I’ve not held a #65, but the blade on about any Stanley can be adjusted by hand (or fingers) side to side to some degree. Since this is a knuckle style cap, not allowing instant lever cap pressure adjustment, you may need to use a small hammer to tap the back of the blade side to side with the lever cap snapped down. If the blade is held too tightly for this, then back off the cap pressure, it’s too tight anyway. Play around with the blade with the cap off to see how much lateral play exists.

As for a square bevel, I use an accurate square to check the bevel to both sides of the blade (and the blade sides are rarely parallel on Stanley’s), and do so several times while establishing the bevel. Using a sharpie or other marking fluid on the bevel to know where you are grinding is very helpful. You can take a look at my blog for sharpening processes.

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Don W

18754 posts in 2594 days

#2 posted 10-10-2014 12:31 AM

The #65 is my go to block. You really want the blade square on almost any plane (except for skewed of course) and the #65 is really no different. I adjust mine with my fingers when needed.

My suggestion, sharpen the cutter, if its not square enough, straighten it some more. How much movement depends on some vintage factors. Using it is the best way to tell.

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View Deycart's profile


444 posts in 2284 days

#3 posted 10-11-2014 12:46 AM

It’s really not hard to adjust by hand (unless your screw is too tight). I also use a very small brass plane hammer for adjusting planes with no adjustment. I actually find my self reaching for it even when the plane has an adjustment. It does not take much time to get the feel for it.

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