Need a little table saw purchase advice

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Forum topic by kwolfe posted 10-04-2014 11:24 AM 1339 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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108 posts in 982 days

10-04-2014 11:24 AM

So I sold my Dewalt hydros the other day and am looking to get another saw. I am really torn between two that are pretty different but with pretty different prices. The first is a ridgid 4511 with the granite top (not totally sold on the granite). I really like the weight of the machine, the fence and especially the fact that it has a riving knife. The guy wants $300.

The other is a craftsman 315.22813 contractor saw. I have heard good reviews on these saws. Not sure if you can retro fit a riving knife to it or not. This guy only wants $100.

I guess my question is, for a weekend hobby guy like myself, is the ridgid worth $200 more? Would love to pick one of these up today if I could. Thanks

16 replies so far

View kwolfe's profile


108 posts in 982 days

#1 posted 10-04-2014 11:25 AM

Btw, I meant dewalt hybrid. Dw746

View knotscott's profile


7145 posts in 2793 days

#2 posted 10-04-2014 12:34 PM

I’m curious to why you sold the DW746, which was a pretty decent hybrid, though a bit dated. If the lack of riving knife was part of the equation, the Cman 315 contractor saw won’t fill that requirement, and there are no aftermarket riving knives available for it that I know of. If it’s a full size model with an updated fence, it’s still a nice buy @ $100…..maybe even worth a quick flip even if it’s not the end saw for you. That model # didn’t look like the full number for one of the full size saws, so beware that it’s not a portable, compact, or benchtop model.

The R4511 is a nice buy at $300 IMO….I’m not completely sold on the granite either, but mostly from lack of personal experience. Most granite owners are pretty happy with it….it’s more brittle than cast iron, but not ”brittle” per se. There were stories of breakage when HD was selling them, but much of that ended up attributed to incorrect warehousing practices. I rarely read of an owner experiencing breakage. The big cabinet mounted trunnions add mass and stability, plus are much easier to adjust. The fence is ok on the R4511, but not great….I’ve seen others replace the two piece front rail with a single solid piece for a nice improvement.

Any of them are depended on setup and blade selection to perform well.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View toolie's profile


2009 posts in 2046 days

#3 posted 10-04-2014 04:35 PM

the model number posted for the c-man doesn’t want to be found on the sears website. for $200, assuming proper operating condition, the 4511 is a very good buy. i bought one to resell when they were being clearance d. the buyer and i had to unpack the saw inside the truck it was transported in as it weighed close to 500lbs. mass, cabinet mounted trunions and left tilt all make it a “buy” for me.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View Loren's profile


8157 posts in 3065 days

#4 posted 10-04-2014 04:47 PM

Only a handful of tilting arbor saws ever made can be
“easily” retrofitted with a riving knife and most
of them are solidly in the industrial class of
machine. Tilting top table saws can retrofitted
without much trouble. Otherwise a riving knife
retrofit requires a finicky follower-arm mechanism
to stay in a consistent relationship to the blade.

Some benchtop table saws have an arbor travel
that goes straight up and down which would,
in theory, allow for a riving knife to be installed
if there were room.

for example:


View Rob's profile


704 posts in 2488 days

#5 posted 10-04-2014 04:52 PM

If you get the Ridgid 4511, be sure to review the recall notice and make sure the saw that you’re buying doesn’t have the defective arbor.

-- Ask an expert or be the expert -

View sawdustjunkie's profile


342 posts in 1134 days

#6 posted 10-04-2014 06:31 PM

Where do you live?

I will be selling my Craftsman 113 with all the accessories and a complete cabinet with several drawers, along with some blades and the original stand. It also has a new rip fence which works great.

-- Steve: Franklin, WI

View kwolfe's profile


108 posts in 982 days

#7 posted 10-04-2014 06:31 PM

Sounds like I’m hearing more votes for the ridgid

View kwolfe's profile


108 posts in 982 days

#8 posted 10-04-2014 08:31 PM

I’m in central PA so that would be a hike it looks like.

View kwolfe's profile


108 posts in 982 days

#9 posted 10-04-2014 10:33 PM

The crafts a is a 315.228410

View B4B's profile


126 posts in 775 days

#10 posted 10-05-2014 12:48 AM

My Craftsman 113 (the 315. appears to be a newer model, maybe the 90s?) saw has been good for occasional projects. I got it second hand sometime in 2006. It didn’t come with a blade guard or blade splitter assembly, but I found one on ebay for about $75. Total $$ in the saw is about $150 at this point. I’m looking to upgrade the stock fence for another $300 (the Vega Pro model). At that point total cost will be in the $450 range. Add a motor if the one I have (ever) dies and that’ll be about $200 for a new Grizzly 1.5 HP motor, even more for a Baldor or Leeson.

If it were me, and I were purchasing a 2nd hand saw, between the two choices presented, I’d go with the ridgid, if it’s in reasonable condition.
- It has a 1.5 HP motor
- It has dust collection (The c-man contractors saws do not)
- The fence is better (relatively speaking)
- No concern over rust on the table

Take a look at for reviews on the ridgid.

-- There's two routers in my vocab, one that moves data and one that removes wood, the latter being more relevant on this forum.

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1294 posts in 1366 days

#11 posted 10-05-2014 02:17 PM

I’m sorry to be the old troll, but TS’s have been around for along time without riving knives. I have used saws with and own 3 saw without. I don’t see what’s so special about them. I think in the 15 years I have been using a ts, I can count the number of times I have had a board pinch onto a blade on 1 hand. I would say it has probable happened to me more with a circular saw cutting rafters. There are so many great used saws on the market that seem to be overlooked because they don’t have the latest and greatest. It seems to me more accidents happen due to poor technique, lack of experience, or fatigue. sorry for the rant and thanks for listening.

View kwolfe's profile


108 posts in 982 days

#12 posted 10-06-2014 11:54 AM

So the weekend has passed and I am still sawless.

knotscott: The dewalt was a pretty nice saw for sure. Turns out that I know a guy who is a dewalt nut. He offered me more than I paid for the saw so I couldn’t say no.

Turns our the craftsman saw was about an hour from me and with kids stuff and house chores this weekend, I just couldn’t spare the time.

I think I might go in a little different direction. My mom was down a few weeks ago to visit and she is very concerned about table saw safety. So much so that she offered to buy/help buy me a Sawstop for my birthday. I know this sounds great, but here and my dad are on a somewhat limited income and really don’t want her spending the money. However I do want to be safe.

Sooooo. I’m thinking about buying a track saw (and upgrading my bandsaw or buying a small table saw for boards to narrow for the track saw at a later time). This is a hobby for me and I really want to be a safe as I can for my self and my family. I also know it means a lot to my mom.

View Bken's profile


32 posts in 969 days

#13 posted 10-06-2014 12:40 PM

If you’re willing to spend $300 and you’re uncomfortable with your mom spending nearly 3x that, then find the happy medium. There are great cabinet saws on CL in the $500 – $700 range. You can always ask her to split it with you. I recently upgraded from an 80s vintage craftsman contractor saw to an 80s vintage unisaw for $300 and the difference is incredible. I would LOVE to own a saw stop, but as a hobbiest myself I could never justify that cost. Regarding safety, accidents do happen and there are no guaranties. Learning proper technique and basic safe operating practices is a must. Good luck.

View dhazelton's profile


2283 posts in 1714 days

#14 posted 10-06-2014 01:54 PM

If you decide to go for a smaller saw I picked up a Dewalt DW745 last winter when it was being phased out at Home Depot for $209. Ripping a board on that is a pleasure compared to my 10 year old Sears contractor saw. The fence is rock solid and parallel to the blade, the riving knife and hold downs work great and it cuts butter smooth. And technically, if you use a table saw smartly you’re hand shouldn’t be anywhere near the blade so a Sawstop might be overkill.

View kwolfe's profile


108 posts in 982 days

#15 posted 10-06-2014 03:01 PM

Bken, my mom would be spending about 6x’s that. I know proper technique is super important, however things happen to even the most careful people and my hobby makes her nervous. I love my mom to pieces and would hate to have her worry. That’s why I thought track saw. If I find that I need something for cutting narrow pieces, then I could always upgrade my bandsaw a bit or buy a small table saw just for that. Either way, it would be half the price of even the cheapest saw stop.

dhazelton, I just looked up the saw online and its $299. Might have to keep my open for one. Thanks for the advice. Nice and compact as well.

Now I just need to think about track saws. Might get the Dewalt as it seems to have gotten the best reviews next to the Festool which is considerably more expensive.

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