Cleaning up a bandsaw table

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Forum topic by JHAstrello posted 10-01-2014 03:11 AM 1553 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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27 posts in 1559 days

10-01-2014 03:11 AM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw table clean up shop question

I have purchased a used JET 14” Bandsaw. Got it home and on it’s new mobile base. When I bought it, I knew right away that the table was going to need to be ‘cleaned up’. The previous owner didn’t take care of it at all. Nothing really bad, just not at all what is needed.

Need some suggestions about the best course of action to take.

Sanding, cleaning, etc. This is my first really decent tool, and an area (cleaning up the table) that I just don’t have experience with. Appreciate the info and help that I know I’m going to get.

-- John in E. Texas

9 replies so far

View LJD4662's profile


35 posts in 1898 days

#1 posted 10-01-2014 02:28 PM

If its rusty remove the table and soak it upside down in some evaporust for a day or so. This will remove the rust but not stains.

Its going to be alot more work if its just stains and you want a nice shiny table. I’ve used scotch brite pads and bar keepers friend with good results. To make it go a little faster, I have an old palm sander that I attach the scotch brite to.

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Ron Ford

209 posts in 1930 days

#2 posted 10-01-2014 04:07 PM

I have had good luck with the two products shown here:

Use the Boeshield Rust Free product to clean up any rust and stains (using either steel wool or a Scotchbrite pad as LJD4662 recommends), then give it regular treatments of GlideCote to keep the surface clean and slick.

You can find both products online at Amazon or many of the suppliers for woodworking gear.

Hope this helps.


-- Once in awhile I make something really great. Most days I just make sawdust.

View Rob's profile


704 posts in 3268 days

#3 posted 10-01-2014 04:25 PM

Someone else mentioned recently in a different thread that the active ingredient in Boeshield Rust Free is phosphoric acid, which is much cheaper on its own and apparently works just as well.

Be careful using Rust-Free on shiny cast iron; I used it on some light surface rust on my new table saw for no more than the prescribed amount of time and it ate away the shine.

-- Ask an expert or be the expert -

View Surfside's profile


3389 posts in 2371 days

#4 posted 10-01-2014 07:39 PM

I put paste wax or wd40

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View JHAstrello's profile


27 posts in 1559 days

#5 posted 10-01-2014 08:06 PM

Cleanup went fairly well. Used Bar Keepers Helper, steel wool and a ‘sanding block’. Sanding block was to apply even pressure on the steel wool. It’s not ‘perfect’, but very clean. Picked up some wax, and will put that on later today.

On another note, laid out the new bearings (the other guy bought them, never installed or used them), and started inspecting the details of the saw a little further. Took off the blade (already have new ones) and unfortunately both of the rubber tires are really completely embedded with metal shavings. He was cross cutting metal ‘brackets’ for something his wife was doing in her curtain business. Little chance to ‘clean these up’, so simply ordered two new urethane tires. Be here in a few days.

Thanks again, for the information and replies.

-- John in E. Texas

View 1371Marine's profile


23 posts in 1539 days

#6 posted 10-01-2014 08:41 PM

Follow the thread below, I just did the top on a tablesaw. Not quite finished but it looks pretty good so far. I have about 2 hours total in it so far.

View Picklehead's profile


1050 posts in 2127 days

#7 posted 10-01-2014 11:36 PM

I have the same bandsaw, bought used. I hit it with Evaporust overnight, in a trash bag in a cardboard box. Worked great!

-- Quote from ebay tool listing: " Has nicks and dings wear and tear dust and dirt rust and pitting but in good working condition"

View Kelly's profile


2125 posts in 3142 days

#8 posted 10-01-2014 11:50 PM

I play with granite a little bit. In addition to a tile saw and a circular saw, I used a variable speed grinder.

Of course, the saws are to cut the granite. The grinder acts as a granite router and a polisher. Because you can slow it down, you can use diamond router bits, grind stones and backing plates with [hook-and-loop] disks to shape and polish the edges.

I’ve used some of my worn diamond polishing disks (600 and up) with oil to polish the top of my machined tables. When done, I had a mirror finish.

After the top was polished, I applied Corrosion X [DO NOT GET THE INDUSTRIAL VERSION – it does not harden]. It destroyed the polished finish, but you could set a coffee cup or a pop can on the cast surface and not leave a rust mark. The last application lasted well over a year.

View a1Jim's profile


117328 posts in 3775 days

#9 posted 10-02-2014 01:30 AM

My approach for taking off rust and general clean up, is to use automotive rubbing compound using a random orbital sander with a scotch pad under it and then a rag under the ROS to remove the excess and then apply automotive wax with a soft rag under my ROS ,when through metal tops have a slick clean, mirror like surface.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

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