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Delta 14" band saw woes

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Forum topic by ElChe posted 09-29-2014 08:16 AM 1606 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ElChe

630 posts in 801 days


09-29-2014 08:16 AM

Topic tags/keywords: delta band saw blade tension bandsaw

Hi! Brand new to LumberJocks although I’ve trolled many times. Love the site. My Delta 28-280 band saw won’t tension the blade anymore. I was tensioning the blade with stock adjustment screw and I felt a click. I checked the tension screw and but and it is not stripped and will compress the tension spring but the blade won’t tension. I switched to a brand new blade and it won’t tension. I disassembled the upper wheel mechanism and thoroughly inspected it and nothing is bent or cracked. I checked the casting and couldn’t see any cracks or signs of fatigue. I am at wits end. I consulted with my three legged chihuahua terrier mix Baby and he is stumped (pun intended). I am wondering if it is the stock tension spring fatigue so I am ordering an after market Iturra or Carter. Anyone encountered this problem? Thanks. Tom

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.


18 replies so far

View hairy's profile

hairy

2384 posts in 2997 days


#1 posted 09-29-2014 12:05 PM

I would check the threads on the piece that the tension screw piece screws into. Usually, a nut is more likely to strip than a bolt.

-- stay thirsty my friends...

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ElChe

630 posts in 801 days


#2 posted 09-29-2014 12:51 PM

Thanks for the suggestion hairy. I checked the square nut and it is not stripped. I attached a picture of the main components. Nothing seems broken or even worn. I’ve been thinking of upgrading the tension screw rod and the tension spring so I will get from Iturra or Carter and see if that works. An Acme rod would be nice as the stock screw rod doesn’t look very robust. Tom

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1185 days


#3 posted 09-29-2014 12:59 PM

If you can get a rod and nut with acme threads, that would certainly offer greater resistance to stripping. A spring upgrade can be a worthwhile upgrade if you’re running wider blades. Are you using off the shelf blades or having someone weld some up from stock? What size blades are you using?

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ElChe

630 posts in 801 days


#4 posted 09-29-2014 01:04 PM

Timberwolf 1/2” 3 tpi is the largest for resawing. 3/8” Olson 3 tpi for general purpose. I never over tension the blade a la Fortune method and try to extension blade a bit after use although I’m not 100 percent reliable on detensioning.

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

2145 posts in 1637 days


#5 posted 09-29-2014 01:23 PM

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/delta-28280-type-band-saw-parts-c-3275_3481_14747.html

This looks a lot like what jet and most other 14” band saws use for tension. You state that you took the upper wheel assembly apart and everything looks good. It just about has to be the adjustment screw or nut. The spring could be broken. If the spring has lost some of its tension over time you should still be able to get some tension on the blade.
What length blades are you using. A 14” bandsaw should use 931/2” blades, With a 6” riser they would go to 105 1/2”. Spring failure from fatigue takes forever. I have a 12” craftsman that is 30 years old and I have never taken the tension off except to change blades. Spring still good in it. If the Threads are still good in the tensioning mechanism I would measure blades. It sounds like the blades are too long. Pictures might help.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3942 posts in 1958 days


#6 posted 09-29-2014 01:23 PM

Are you sure that sliding bracket the upper wheel is mounted on isn’t stuck? If it is the spring will tension without moving the wheel up. Also, check the lower wheel to make sure that click you felt wasn’t something there that broke.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 801 days


#7 posted 09-29-2014 01:50 PM

Blades are 93.5”. I tried with a brand new blade and still won’t tension. Hmm. Maybe sliding mechanism is getting stuck. If it is how do I fix or should I get a new sliding mechanism? How do I check the lower wheel? I’m not real mechanically inclined and have never taken the lower wheel off.

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1185 days


#8 posted 09-29-2014 02:37 PM

I wouldn’t worry too much about de-tensioning. If you’re only leaving your saw static for a little while, it shouldn’t be an issue. Even if you do leave the tension on for a long time while not using the saw you’d likely not damage any of the hard parts. You might flat spot the tires and make the blade more prone to breaking, very remote possibility of taking some of the memory out of the tensioning spring, but that’s about all you’d have to worry about. Figuring out what the “click” was that you felt should be top priority. Pictures might help.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4230 posts in 1664 days


#9 posted 09-29-2014 02:38 PM

Check your hinge bracket for breakage.. it’s kind of a weak link on these machines, particularly if you use large blades and tension them hard.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3942 posts in 1958 days


#10 posted 09-29-2014 02:51 PM

Just look at the lower wheel and see if it’s still firmly in place.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

3389 posts in 1638 days


#11 posted 09-29-2014 08:38 PM

It’s the tension crank, isn’t it?

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View alicejohny123's profile

alicejohny123

4 posts in 800 days


#12 posted 09-29-2014 09:52 PM

You might flat spot the tires and make the blade more prone to breaking, very remote possibility of taking some of the memory out of the tensioning spring, but that’s about all you’d have to worry about.

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 801 days


#13 posted 09-30-2014 12:23 AM

Lower wheel checked out fine. Runs freely. I am starting to suspect the tension rod so I ordered an Iturra spinner. I am also replacing the tension spring although I think the stock spring is fine. I’m ordering some blades from BC saw just in case. And if that doesn’t work then I might try black magic. Thanks for all your help. Tom

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 801 days


#14 posted 09-30-2014 12:24 AM

Oh, hinge bracket isn’t bent or broken. But I ordered Iturra’s beefier bracket. :)

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 801 days


#15 posted 09-30-2014 03:54 AM

And the winner is … Brad. :) the lever arm /hinge bracket that holds the wheel spindle is slightly bent. Probably a prelude to breaking. It results in the upper wheel assembly getting stuck so not enough tension can be had because wheel won’t go up fully. I ordered the improved Iturra version from Iturra Design. I will let y’all know if this fixes the problem. Regards Tom

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

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