|Forum topic by harriw||posted 09-23-2014 03:28 AM||1816 views||0 times favorited||10 replies|
09-23-2014 03:28 AM
A friend of mine has been wanting to make a dining room table for his wife for years, and just got a great deal on some rough cut Curly Maple (beautiful stuff – looks to be around 30 BF, and he only paid $50). He knew I have a jointer and planer, and asked me to mill them up for him, and I’d like some advice on how to go about it, as I don’t have much experience with wider boards.
They’re all rough cut, slightly under 5/4, and most boards are around 10” wide, about 4 feet long. I explained my jointer is only a 6”, but he said he thought they were pretty straight, and would like me to just clean up the faces on the planer and square an edge on the jointer. Well, they’re not as straight as originally thought. They all have some warp to them. The worst shows slightly under 1/4” gap when the opposite corner is held down. Since he’s looking to edge glue all these boards into a 4’ round table top, that warping is definitely going to be a problem.
I’m going to call and ask what he’d like me to do, but would like some more experienced opinions as well. I think the best option is probably to rip the boards down the center. That will both let me get the boards through my jointer, and reduce the amount of material loss. But I don’t really want to rip cup right through that beautiful curly grain… How noticeable would that re-gluing be do you think, once you’ve removed that saw-curf, plus a few passes edge-jointing? Or should he purposely not re-glue matching halves to avoid the slight mis-match?
I’m slowly familiarizing myself with hand-planes, but my sharpening skills need improvement and I’m not ready to try that on somebody else’s lumber. A planer sled would be great but I don’t have one, and honestly don’t see myself using one much in the near future (I don’t tend to use wide boards very often).
My only other thought is whether or not he might be able to force the warped boards to cooperate if he used biscuits, or even a long tongue and groove to join the boards? Pretty sure he could force 1/4” over 4 feet with 3/4” stock, but if I just plane the faces smooth these will probably be slightly over 1” thick… I suspect the seems will also be more visible than you’d like if I edge the boards with that warp still present.
Anyway, just wondering what you might do in this situation. Thanks very much!
-- Bill - Western NY