What is this joint called?

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Forum topic by Patrick posted 09-22-2014 11:09 PM 2354 views 0 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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41 posts in 1371 days

09-22-2014 11:09 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question humor bandsaw tablesaw joining

Three-way Bridle Joint? What would happen if you googled three-way butt joint? Hah

24 replies so far

View bigblockyeti's profile


5140 posts in 1750 days

#1 posted 09-22-2014 11:23 PM

Not sure, but I would be concerned about the strength of the overlap in both boards forming the cross at the base as they would be prone to breakage if the table was tipped with any weight on it. A lot of polyurethane glue would certainly help reduce this likelihood.

View Patrick's profile


41 posts in 1371 days

#2 posted 09-22-2014 11:26 PM

You’re right about that. My real reason for this joint is to make a dining table using the x’s as the legs and the stretcher would go in the middle. I’ve always wondered how they joined those pieces so I just experimented with this.

View richardwootton's profile


1699 posts in 1984 days

#3 posted 09-22-2014 11:49 PM

Interesting concept. Is this just a full size mockup?

-- Richard, Hot Springs, Ar -- Galoot In Training

View bigblockyeti's profile


5140 posts in 1750 days

#4 posted 09-23-2014 12:20 AM

If the wood species was particularly robust and of substantial dimension I think you could get acceptable strength out of the joint, but it would still be a compromise vs. what could be attained just using an unmodified half lap joint. One option might be to do that, then drill through the middle and use a newel post lag bolt.

View mahdee's profile


3898 posts in 1797 days

#5 posted 09-23-2014 12:52 AM

I wouldn’t ever smoke that joint; whatever it is called.


View thetinman's profile


294 posts in 1567 days

#6 posted 09-23-2014 12:59 AM

It looks like you have combined half laps and mortise/tenon joints. And the tenons tie the cross pieces together. No dimensions are given but the pics appear that each of the “tenons” is about 1/4 the width. This provides substantial glue surfaces along side grain which would yield a strong bond. I would not worry about it. I’d go for it. Very creative. Nice job.

-- Life is what happens to you while you are planning better things -Mark Twain

View robscastle's profile


5109 posts in 2233 days

#7 posted 09-23-2014 09:27 AM

I would say its a very well made Joint

-- Regards Rob

View distrbd's profile


2252 posts in 2476 days

#8 posted 09-23-2014 12:43 PM

I would say its a very well made Joint

- robscastle

agree 100%

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View Underdog's profile


1118 posts in 2065 days

#9 posted 09-23-2014 01:06 PM

I’d be concerned about the strength of the bond too. Yes, there’s lot’s of face surface area for good glue bonds, but where it really matters on this particular joint is on the end grain to side grain glue bonds. And no matter how well made the joint, or how well you glued it up, that’s never going to be very strong. As time passes, and the wood contracts and expands, the glue will fail on those points, then you’re back to the 1/4 size strength (or whatever size it is). On a cope and stick door, it’s that end grain joint that is the weakest, and always fails as the years go by.
I suppose though that if you kept the piece in a climate controlled area, and never loaded the ends of the cross pieces, you’d be ok.
What is it called? I have no earthly idea.

View GrandpaLen's profile


1650 posts in 2301 days

#10 posted 09-23-2014 01:41 PM

Although a very clever attempt… ;-)
5/6th of your ‘feet’ connection has been reduced to a simple butt joint.

Wider feet boards, with a 1/2 lap and thru mortices, with the same 4 tenons on your riser would produce a joint with a lesser shear factor.

...just my 2¢

Best Regards. – Grandpa Len
Work Safely and have Fun.

EDIT; ...btw, Welcome to the LumberJocks’ community

-- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.

View naugled's profile


21 posts in 2881 days

#11 posted 09-23-2014 06:37 PM

I think if you keep the same half lap joint for the legs but only put a single square mortise in the center of that joint to accept a single tenon from the stretcher you should have more strength in the joint for the legs. It would probably be at the expense of a weaker joint for the stretcher. But that might be a good trade off. You could even make the mortise blind so you don’t see the tenon at the leg crossing. I think you can make up your own name for the joint.

View SamuraiSaw's profile


515 posts in 1993 days

#12 posted 09-23-2014 06:44 PM

A lot of polyurethane glue would certainly help reduce this likelihood.

- bigblockyeti

Polyurethane glue adds absolutely NO strength. I’ve seen several comparisons that indicate it is actually weaker than standard wood glue. The “gap filling” aspect of it is nothing more than flimsy foam.

-- Artisan Woodworks of Texas....

View Woodbum's profile


813 posts in 3095 days

#13 posted 09-23-2014 07:12 PM

Cool joint. Your pics show a lot of thinking and work went into making it-them. I would call it a “patrickhosey wonder joint” As far a strength goes, I would make the feet cross members wider, and increase the column size accordingly. But all in all, a very finely planned and executed work. If it works for you, then it works for me.

-- "Now I'm just another old guy wearing funny clothes"

View Patrick's profile


41 posts in 1371 days

#14 posted 10-03-2014 01:22 PM

Thanks everybody for the advice. I definitely appreciate it.

View robscastle's profile


5109 posts in 2233 days

#15 posted 10-04-2014 09:53 PM


Have a look at my blog acknowledging your post, took me a few attempts but I eventually had a reasonable result.

-- Regards Rob

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