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Forum topic by MikeUT posted 09-22-2014 06:55 PM 1065 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MikeUT

123 posts in 826 days


09-22-2014 06:55 PM

I got this old wood jointer and got it in a lot of planes that also included a Stanley 113, a No. 4 handyman, and an unmarked block plane. I paid $35 for the lot which would have been a steal for the 113 alone so the rest is just gravy.
The more I look at this wood plane the more I want to do something with it. It is a New York Tool Co. and I think it dates to the 1890’s. It is 26”, it has a few cracks but none of them go all the way through and it is quite square. From what I’ve read they aren’t too sought after but are mostly purchased to be users. The problem is that it doesn’t have a blade or wedge. I have done a little research and making a wedge shouldn’t be too difficult but I’m not sure what to do about a blade. The opening of the mouth is 2 ½” so I assume putting a 2” blade in it would give it too much slop and would give me problems. Should I look for a blade that is 1 ½’ and plan on filing it down a bit to fit or should I look for something that is 2 ¼-2 3/8”? I appreciate your input. Thanks!


12 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4457 posts in 3427 days


#1 posted 09-22-2014 07:25 PM

Your measurements don’t add up.
Why would you want to put a smaller width blade in the plane?
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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MikeUT

123 posts in 826 days


#2 posted 09-22-2014 07:46 PM

Sorry, that is my inexperience showing. It looks like the original blade didn’t fit the full width of the mouth. From this photo you can see that there is a lot more aging on the sides than in the middle. That is what led me to question whether or not the plane was designed to use a blade around 2 1/4”. Should I look to put a wider blade in it then?

View Don W's profile

Don W

17971 posts in 2035 days


#3 posted 09-22-2014 07:53 PM

I think what Bill is referring to is ”should I look for something that is 1 ¼-1 3/8”? ”

I believe you meant to say should I look for something that is 2 ¼-2 3/8”?

2 1/4” – 2 3/8” would work fine. 1/8” clearance on each side of the cutter would be perfect for that plane.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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MikeUT

123 posts in 826 days


#4 posted 09-22-2014 08:08 PM

Ahh… now I understand. I didn’t notice the typo. I did mean to put 2 1/4. Sorry about that. I will correct it in the original post.

View 12strings's profile

12strings

434 posts in 1851 days


#5 posted 09-23-2014 01:10 AM

Unless you are set on buying a new blade, Old blades are going to be rare without a plane…you are probably just as likely to find one of the more common 22” wooden planes at a flea market for a similar price(20-30) and just use the blade from it…the blades on those should be the size you need.

-- I'm strictly hand-tool only...unless the power tool is faster and easier!

View Wally331's profile

Wally331

341 posts in 1492 days


#6 posted 09-23-2014 01:28 AM

Tapered single, or double irons come up on ebay pretty often. There is one up right now for $25, but its a bit thin at 2 1/8th. Lee valley does sell tapered plane blades aswell, however at $40 for the 2 3/8 iron its pretty pricey. If you can find another similar plane in disrepair with a good iron you can usually get them for $10 to $15. Coffin smoothers with a half inch mouth come to mind… But I’ve seen good tapered irons on ebay for under $20 bucks. That being said, a similar plane to yours at a flea market would also go for about 20 bucks.

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Tim

3119 posts in 1428 days


#7 posted 09-23-2014 01:31 AM

I dunno, I guess it depends on where you are. I find the irons for these almost as often as I do the planes themselves. I would also suggest keep looking for an iron. You’re much more likely to find a complete plane in better condition for a good deal first, but don’t let that stop you if you want to make a complete plane out of this one.

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12strings

434 posts in 1851 days


#8 posted 09-23-2014 10:51 AM

I should say I was not considering online…I do a lot of shopping around at flea-markets and antiques stores and see those 22” Wooden planes all the time. I use one for my primary jointer, and it works fantasticly with that thick tapered iron and matching chip-breaker. Mine is from Ohio tools Co.

-- I'm strictly hand-tool only...unless the power tool is faster and easier!

View MikeUT's profile

MikeUT

123 posts in 826 days


#9 posted 10-02-2014 08:04 PM

I found a decent blade for $12 bucks so I started to work this plane over a bit. There are a few superficial cracks that don’t affect the integrity of the plane but I’d like to seal them up so they don’t become problems in the future. Does anyone have suggestions on how to correct this? Right now I am leaning towards CA glue but would definitely do something else if there is a better option. Thanks!

(This is the top and side view of the same crack)

View Don W's profile

Don W

17971 posts in 2035 days


#10 posted 10-08-2014 12:02 PM

The CA should have worked fine. Ive even used titebond with good success.

How’s it coming along.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

View MikeUT's profile

MikeUT

123 posts in 826 days


#11 posted 10-13-2014 05:41 PM

I was distracted with a few other projects but I was able to play with it a little this weekend. I put some CA glue in the cracks just to make sure that they don’t spread in the future. I cleaned up the body with boiled linseed oil and it looks pretty good. I made a wedge that works well but I’m not sure how to finish it. I decided to use maple because I have plenty laying around. It doesn’t look all that great with the body of the plane. I can’t decide if I want to try to stain and antique the wedge to try to make it match or if I should let it be what it is and enjoy the contrast of the woods. What do you think?

View Don W's profile

Don W

17971 posts in 2035 days


#12 posted 10-13-2014 06:38 PM

Be careful finishing the wedge. Keep in mind its held in place with friction, so keep the contact points rough and clean.

I would leave the contrast, unless you think you can really make it match. Maple to beech would be tough.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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