I agree with Fred Hargis and wahoo on both assessements…..Try one, then try the other, or both…..That's about the only way tou're gonna get rid of the poly…..Lots of elbow and wrist action…...
let is sit longer and it will probably dry. It might take a week or so. Then you can remove it. I went to the store and talked to the paint guy. I had varnished a project with some very old varnish. It was probably 20 or more years old. He said be patient and it will dry. It did. He told me when it had dried to stir the contents of my can better. Time it with a watch. 10 minutes! I did and it worked the next time. Just my experience and it turned out good for me.
Like grandpa said, just give it some time, unless you are under schedule pressure to deliver. How long has it been drying, so far? Do you live in a cool or humid climate?
Like Clint said,
Get a good stripper and take that crap off, otherwise just a big headache. Make sure you clean it off good with some Mineral spirits afterwards.
The time thing isn't working. It has been sitting on the bench for 3+ weeks and is still very tacky to the touch. It is a new can of Poly too. I want to remove it so I am going to go with the MS idea and hopefully it works.
Wipe the bacote down with a paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner. Sand to 400 and then use EEE and Shellawax to bring it up to a beautiful finish.
Then test that poly on a piece of oak or pine.
Stir it real good, apply a thin coat with a rag and it should dry over night.
If it does not dry on those woods, I'd take the poly back for a refund!
I just found this where they talk about finishing bacote and the long drying time with spar varnish. it might be the wood!! some good discussion on this forum.
I like the moderators bottom line:
My biggest fear is that I'll die and my wife will sell my callmaking supplies for what I told her they cost…..
This thread once again proves that there are at least a dozen cockamamie ways, ranging from the ridiculous to the sublime, to fix a problem . Nyuk nyuk
Clint is wrong, but right at the same time. He said a scraper is a waste of time because it leaves residue. A scraper is absolutely the fastest way to remove a finish, especially one that isn't completely dry. No gumming up like sandpaper. You can remove ALMOST all of it in just seconds. Then you can use a stripper or lacquer thinner to remove the slight residue that remains. I have done this and it works well.
Clint, I do use stripper and I've used it without scraping and it turns into a big slimy mess with a lot of crap to wipe off. I even use a scraper when removing an old hard finish with stripper. I put the stripper on (I use Strypeeze) and when it softens, I use the scraper to quickly remove most of the finish before wiping it down with lacquer thinner or more stripper to remove the residue. I just find that the scraper and stripper work great together and neither is the best one tool by itself in my opinion.
If the poly still isn't dry, I'd use an MC stripper to remove it, wash the surface with lacquer thinner and refinish. Is it possible that your issue is related to contaminants on the surface? Sometimes wax or grease residue can cause the type of problem that you're experiencing. If so, the lacquer thinner wash should help. To be really safe, you can apply a coat of Zinsser sealcoat before applying either more poly, lacquer or a waterborne finish. As others have suggested, try the poly on a clean piece of maple, oak or pine. If the poly doesn't cure on that surface, then you know that the problem lies with the poly. Otherwise, I'd be more inclined to think in terms of contamination.
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