Trying Mix media

If you’re looking for a permanent bond, contact cement, or epoxy.

Short term, double stick tape, or hot melt glue.

-- Nicky

Yes I think that the metal counter tops that are applied to wood substrate use counter contact cement.

You might want to roughen up the back with some light sanding to remove some of the oxidation just before gluing it down.

-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com

Thanks for the info.

-- A man who moves mountains starts one stone at a time.

Not a polyurethane glue user, but I think that in addition to what Nicky and Karson suggested, a glue such as Gorilla Glue would work -

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

I use the Polyurethane, I think it would work. Something like Hansen’s Liquid Nails – construction adhesive would work too. No matter what you use, be sure and do a mock-up, rather than launching ahead with your priceless art piece that you worked on for six months. It’s akin to the finishing world. You would never experiment with a new finish, or process directly on your grand piano. Look at the Big Dig in Boston. Ya never know what will happen over time.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Hey Aubster:

Contact cement …......give the back a real good scuff as Karson suggests, but a good scuff, a used 80 grit sanding belt works great, go in circular motion.

Cut the piece oversize, so you can trim off any crimping that may occur when cutting the metal.

Very important, make sure there is absolutely no debree between teh substrate and the metal, it will show through like a cherry on a cream pie.

Neil

I’d first go with liquid nails, but any of the above suggestions should work. Take a look in the adhesives aisle at the Big Orange (or blue) box. and read the labels. There is a different brand at Lowes that claims to be stonger than Liquid Nails (and warns you to use less that you’d normally)

You might find a better assortment of epoxies at a smaller hardware store, Another avenue to try, if you have them in your neck of the woods, a boat/marine place. I’ve used a marine grade sealant 3M Brand 4200 (I think) to attach my kitchen sink in an “undermount” procedure I saw in Workbench a few years back. This is the stuff that will pull the fiberglass off the boat before it’ll break the bond. I’ve basically guaranteed the next homeowner will have to get out a sledgehammer and destroy some granite tile if they ever want to change out the sink.

-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso -- http://snbcreative.wordpress.com/

Thanks everyone,

I am getting information than I ever expected. You guys and gals are great. I’m going to research how to do a blog on this site so I can show you what we are doing. I think with all the great info everyone is giving me you deserve that much.

Thanks again

-- A man who moves mountains starts one stone at a time.

The blog would be great…the only trick is that you have upload your pics to one of the many sites that you can store/manage/share pics on. If you click on the “pictures & video friendly” text above the “Reply to this topic” window (the window that you would respond in), there is a link to the “Embedding Pictures” guide (this applies to blogs too).

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

Wait – duh – this is even easier! CLICK HERE

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

Thanks Dorje, I just found that too. I will start the blog this weekend.

-- A man who moves mountains starts one stone at a time.

Sounds great!

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA