My Craigslist find - free 6" Jointer but . .

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Forum topic by B4B posted 09-17-2014 05:22 AM 1929 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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126 posts in 779 days

09-17-2014 05:22 AM

Topic tags/keywords: jointer

I was perusing CL tools section at lunch and came across someone giving away, for free, I repeat free, “Sears Craftsman jointer”. No model was posted, just a couple of pictures and a statement about it being partially disassembled and no hardware. I figured I could use it for parts on my current jointer, part it out, or scrap it. Sent the “seller” and email, a few messages back and forth and I was the “winner”.

I went over to pick it up after work, just a short 15 minute drive.

I notice right off the bat, it’s bigger than my current 4” jointer. I get it home, and I look at the model number, 103.23900. A 6” (6.125” knife) craftsman jointer originally made by King-Seeley or Central Specialty) in ok shape and partially disassembled with no nuts or bolts. NICE!

Don’t let the picture fool you, the cutterhead assembly, outfeed table, and table base are not attached, its just “dry-fit” together and rust spots.

The good:
- All (most) of the important parts are there,
- In and Outfeed tables
- Cutterhead assembly
- What looks to be a matching stand with wheels
- Working Dunlop? (name started with a D) motor
- Working fence
- Green link belt (harbor freight?)
- Table height adjustment knob still attached and works

The bad, and it’s really not that bad:
- The outfeed table was removed from the base and the hardware is gone (it was free)
- No blade guard (I’ll have to come up with something or watch fleabay)
- Rust on the table top, and some on the sides and frame. The worst was on the table top. I sanded the top down with some WD-40 and a metal sandpaper, wiped it down with mineral spirits, and coated with Boseshield. I’ll see how that does. Its nice and smooth now.

I found a manual for it online with a parts list.

My thoughts –
Step 1:
Get it re-assembled and see if the whole unit still works and if it can be (roughly) aligned. I figure if I run into any major problems at this point, I can cut my losses at a few nuts and bolts, and I’ll know what I’m getting into.

Step 2:
Clean up the rust as best I can
Repaint the base and rolling stand
Order a new set of blades and/or get the current set sharpened (If I can get them out – rusted hex nuts)
Add new paddle safety switch and associated electrical work
Find or fabricate some sort of blade guard

Step 3:
Adjust the outfeed table and cutterhead assembly

Step 4:
Use it.

Step 5:
Drill and tap the fence for my 4” jointer, add a thumb screw to secure the fence to the fence glide rod. Sell 1st jointer.

It looks like the outfeed table leveling adjustment nuts are there, but the bolts and washers to attach the outfeed table to the base are missing. Did the table bolt directly to the adjustment mechanism or was there more to it? I may take a peak at my current jointer and see how it is assembled.

Has anyone pulled this model apart and re-assembled? Any tips for re-assembly?

I figure I’ll spend about $100 on the high side for parts. Is it worth it? I figure $40+shipping for just the knives, around $15 for a paddle switch, miscellaneous hardware, and paint.

I’m kinda happy about this. If it works, it’ll be a great addition to my slowly growing collection of “big” power tools.

I’ll blog the progress if/when I start.

-- There's two routers in my vocab, one that moves data and one that removes wood, the latter being more relevant on this forum.

10 replies so far

View Loren's profile


8159 posts in 3069 days

#1 posted 09-17-2014 06:05 AM

The knives are held in place by gib screws. You may
have to grind down a wrench to get in there. Turn
the bolt heads clockwise to release the knives.

Knives are pretty standard for that sort of jointer. Look
on ebay. Sears probably still stocks them. Sears is
good about that.

View runswithscissors's profile


2127 posts in 1446 days

#2 posted 09-17-2014 06:27 AM

My dad had one of those, and liked it very much. I think the outfeed table is not adjustable; you set the knives so they are at the right height.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View dhazelton's profile


2284 posts in 1717 days

#3 posted 09-17-2014 10:58 AM

I had the 4 inch version. If I recall the outfeed table had some type of eliptically shaped washers for lack of a better description to adjust the table. You can get a manual for parts and setup on the vintage machinery website.

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8098 posts in 2849 days

#4 posted 09-17-2014 11:18 AM

I have a bit newer model. In use for over 40 years and still does the job. Mine has the paddle switch. I’ll bet you can still buy that switch from Sears.
Suspect the “D” motor is “Dayton”.
You are a bit high on the knives. And, they can be sharpened.
The outfeed table is not adjustable.
Adjusting the knives is a simple task with this. There are more expensive jigs and far more complicated processes, but this has served me well.
Reassembly is a straightforward, logical job. It’s a pretty simple machine.
Blade guard is a must! As is a method to hold the fence in position.
Free is always good and you will enjoy the assembly process and using a machine that you “built”.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View B4B's profile


126 posts in 779 days

#5 posted 09-17-2014 07:38 PM

Yep, found the manual on there is a parts diagram, however it isn’t assembly instructions. I do have a good idea how to get it back together from this.

Yep, searspartsdirect sels the knives for $37 a set.

The out feed table has three adjustment points, two near the cutterhead at the cirner, and one at the end of the table in the midle, they are setup in triangle. It looks like they adjust about 1/8 th inch to get in and outfeed tables coplaner.

The motor is a Dunlap. I need to take a closer look at the specs.

I’m going to make a jig with some magnets and a really straight piece of wood or metal.

I don’t think the blade guard does much more than preventing my hand from hitting the blades. The fence is supported by a rail at the front of the table. At least on my 4” that’s the case.

The blades are all rusty, so I’m not sure if they can be cleaned and sharpened, but I’ll try. I do have an Allen wrench set that should work on those Gibb screws.

Thanks for the tips, it should be a fun project.

-- There's two routers in my vocab, one that moves data and one that removes wood, the latter being more relevant on this forum.

View ohtimberwolf's profile


628 posts in 1773 days

#6 posted 09-17-2014 10:36 PM

“Order a new set of blades and/or get the current set sharpened (If I can get them out – rusted hex nuts)”

Read some time back that at the old machinery gathering in Canada they did a test of all the ways they knew of to break free rusted bolts and nuts etc. The winner by far was (I don’t know the proportions) Acetone and transmission fluid mixed. I would guess equal parts but do not know.

Hope this may help and if someone knows the formula jump right in.

Also, be very careful with Acetone it is HIGHLY flammable. Basically fingernail polish in the past.

-- Just a barn cat, now gone to cat heaven.

View JoeinGa's profile


7370 posts in 1428 days

#7 posted 09-18-2014 12:35 AM

Hmmmm, you’ve been here 10 days and are ALREADY posting about getting FREE STUFF! You have 6 responses to this post .. and since no one else has done so, so let me be the first to say …


-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

View B4B's profile


126 posts in 779 days

#8 posted 09-18-2014 01:54 AM

I was waiting for it :).

-- There's two routers in my vocab, one that moves data and one that removes wood, the latter being more relevant on this forum.

View MrUnix's profile


4031 posts in 1620 days

#9 posted 09-18-2014 02:21 AM

I believe the Freud C400 knives will work for that jointer (6-1/8” X 11/16” X 1/8”) and the set can usually be found selling for under $30 (here are some on Amazon). The Powertec HSS knives should also work and can be had for about $15-$20 depending on where you get them.

The ‘formula’ for Acetone+ATF is 50/50, or at least that is what I’ve used in the past with mixed results. Sometimes it works great, sometimes it doesn’t do much. After you get them out, soak the old blades in evapo-rust or put them in an electrolysis tank to get rid of the rust, scrub them clean afterwards and then have them sharpened for a spare set.


-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View B4B's profile


126 posts in 779 days

#10 posted 09-18-2014 02:36 AM

On the freud or powertec the same angle on the cutting edge as the originals? I thought I read somewhere that the angle on those is not the same.

I’ll happily pay less if I can.

-- There's two routers in my vocab, one that moves data and one that removes wood, the latter being more relevant on this forum.

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