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Router table and Router

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Forum topic by bamaboy posted 296 days ago 1329 views 0 times favorited 37 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bamaboy

6 posts in 303 days


296 days ago

Any one have a suggestion for which router table I should consider. Also which router…I want to be able to change bit above table and height adjustment above table. Open to any suggestions…........

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sIKE

1094 posts in 652 days


296 days ago

Budget and Power are the first questions…..

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

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PurpLev

2763 posts in 547 days


296 days ago

which car should I get?

lol ;) just kidding… but your question is far too general… as sIKE said – what is your budget? what are you planning to use it for?

I’d do a search for “router table” on lumberjocks.com and see what other people have come up with – i’ll give you an idea to start with – see what people used, what people MADE, what people use it for, and how people set theirs up… get you started with ideas for your own :)

enjoy the ride mister!

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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Woodchuck1957

950 posts in 662 days


296 days ago

Well, I like the stand on the Kreg portable table, and I like the Woodpeckers aluminum table insert, and I like the Freud fence, and I bought a Porter-Cable 890 router. Kreg wouldn’t sell me just the stand, so I made my own and added a 1 1/4” MDF top, laminated on both sides, and threw it all together. This spring when it warms up outside I plan on painting the stand. I call it a Fregpecker router table.

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Alan

221 posts in 302 days


296 days ago

I’ve always heard the Triton routers are the way to go. I have one on my wish list but havn’t used one yet.

-- Alan, Prince George

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pitchnsplinters

252 posts in 336 days


296 days ago

Build your own table and install a WoodPecker’s Precision Router Lift (Generation 1 or 2).

There’s only one router … the Porter-Cable 7518. All the router lift manufacturers accommodate this router as standard.

-- Just 'cause a cat has kittens in the oven, it don't make 'em biscuits.

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Kindlingmaker

1477 posts in 425 days


296 days ago

I have a Freud but build your own and you will be soooooooo happy with it!

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

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MedicKen

483 posts in 360 days


296 days ago

I have a cast iron table from Bench Dog that mounts on my table saw. I was looking for some space savings and a little extra support on the saw. I must say I am very happy with my decision. As for the router I have all Bosch, dont remember the model, variable speed 2.25hp and it has been able to handle everything I have thrown at it. If I were to do it over I dont think I would change a thing.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

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Woodchuck1957

950 posts in 662 days


296 days ago

I thought about attaching the router to a tablesaw wing but I decided that I wanted a portable router table like I had before. The problem that I could see with it attached to the table saw is if I needed the table saw, I’d have to move the fence, or take off the fence, and then lower the bit, then the router table would have to be setup again.

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sry

137 posts in 506 days


296 days ago

I won’t post a review until I’ve had more time with it, but thus far I’ve been very happy with my Rockler table. And with the 20% off coupon I had it was only $160. I can’t comment on durability yet, but it seems to work well.

-- Steve -- University Heights, Ohio

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John Gray

1754 posts in 784 days


296 days ago

I built this one (http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/JohnGray/blog/5615) and I love it. My main suggestion on a router table is to make/buy one that contains the under side of the table, you’d be surprised how much dust comes out the bottom.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

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Woodchuck1957

950 posts in 662 days


296 days ago

One thing I found out about building my own was that it was VERY time consumeing, and expensive. I think it turned out real well, and I’m happy with it, but I’m not sure I’d do it again. I do however think Woodpeckers makes the best aluminum router plate insert.

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marcb

705 posts in 572 days


296 days ago

I built mine, including the fence and aluminum insert a few years ago. While the fence could be a bit better, and I’m working on upgrading that, it is a very good router table.

My top is 1 1/2” thick made out of 2 3/4” chunks of MDF laminated with simple kitchen countertop. The top sits on a very simple MDF square that was just glued and screwed together. I hinged one side for access if I need it, a bit awkward, I should have made a door.

I have a Freud 1700 sitting in it. It has above the table bit changes. It works decent, probably not as nice a a real lift but its a good deal with a budget (you can sometimes find them at Lowes online for 99 bucks for the 2 base kit, woodcraft has them on sale last I looked for 124).

I planed to put some T-Track in on the top for featherboards, have yet to get around to it. The extra thick top would help there.

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Will Mego

203 posts in 611 days


296 days ago

I can’t comment on router table yet, as mine isn’t built (going to make a quick and dirty one first…to let me make the nicer one) whenever it actually warms up around here…

However, I bought a porter cable 890 series (2 1/4hp plunge and fixed base) from CPO, factory reconditioned, and it’s beautiful, and was very cheap that way!

-- "That which has in itself the greatest use, possesses the greatest beauty." - Unknown Shaker

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MedicKen

483 posts in 360 days


296 days ago

As Woodchuck has stated it can become a hassle to have tobreak down the router table to use the table saw. I have found that with proper planning and milling sequence I have been able to minimize the number of times that has happened. In my situation, I dont have enough open floor space to dedicate to a router table. I have a 2 car garage that is shared with household storage. I am aware there are limitations to my current set up, but for now it works well for me. As for my router I have a bosch 1617evs, couldnt remember it earlier.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

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Woodchuck1957

950 posts in 662 days


295 days ago

Ken, don’t get me wrong, I think the Benchdog cast top is very, very nice, but like you say, we all have different preferances on what works for each of us, or can afford.

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pitchnsplinters

252 posts in 336 days


295 days ago

An alternative to mounting the router in the saw top is to mount it in the right side extension. I can easily switch back and forth between cutting and routing without losing my router setup. If I were to have a set up on the left side of the blade it would interfere with use of my crosscut sled and miter guide. Oh yeah, it’s mobile too.

-- Just 'cause a cat has kittens in the oven, it don't make 'em biscuits.

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UVA

18 posts in 307 days


295 days ago

Check out www.patwarner.com for some terrific advice on router tables, tops and routers. I have numerous routers and the Milwaukee 5625 is the best for router table use. It has built in micro adjustment, removeable motor to change bits, 3.5 HP for any task and soft start motor. It scored high in Pat Warner’s review and my heavy use has shown it to be the best. With it, there is no need for an expensive router lift.

In my experience, router table tops with inserts eventually sag. Using a top of 3/4” MDF, a torsion box structure for top support and bolting the router directly to the top is ideal. With the Milwaukee 5625 router removeable motor, it is easy to change bits. Plus you can have multiple tops – one with a small opening for normal use and one with a large opening for a raised panel cutter. Pat Warner’s site has numerous pictures of the design. It is inexpensive and works long term better than the expensive table insert version that I used for years and ended up with a sagging top.

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jm540

133 posts in 317 days


294 days ago

I have the frued 31/2 hp plunge, so far so good. great power, easy operating and great price

-- jay Rambling on and on again

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Dragonsrite

34 posts in 295 days


294 days ago

What do you folks think about the simple table used on The Router Workshop?

-- Dragonsrite, Minnesota

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Ryan Shervill

238 posts in 711 days


294 days ago

Guys, I just got the Bosch portable router table and the 2 1/4HP router combo for this years CHW show in Toronto….and I am floored by this table. I am a long time freud table user (and they are great tables), but this bosch is the cat’s meow. It’s big, solid, and full of features that I didn’t even know I needed untill I used it :)

-- If you can't set a good example, at least serve as a horrible warning... www.rarewoodcreations.com

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Popeye Jr.

110 posts in 321 days


294 days ago

i’m with Alan on this one. I just got a Triton TRC001 3 1/4 hp router for christmas, and this thing really kicks a$$ , i tricked it out with the Veritas router table and fence / sled system. and it works like a dream. The fence system is unbeleivable, it is so versatile it can be used to do just about any type of jontery. you can also use it as a jointer. Check it out at LeeValley.com It cost a small fortune but I know it will last me a life time.
The router is suprisingly quiet and has a built in dust collection port which gobbles up the chips.

-- People who say it cannot be done should not interup those who are doing it

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TomHintz

83 posts in 296 days


294 days ago

One thing to keep in mind is that the only true above table adjustment comes with a dedicated lift plate. The “adjustable” routers and router bases still need you to reach under the table to release and lock the height adjustment. I have reviews of a few lift plates, primarily the Woodpeckers line which is very popular iin the Router of my Tool Reviews, scroll down to the Router Accessories section.

-- Tom Hintz, www.newwoodworker.com

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pitchnsplinters

252 posts in 336 days


294 days ago

As mentioned more than once above, a significant issue with most router tables, shop made or purchased, is having one that is flat. I found this to be true when I installed my router in my tablesaw extension. In order to correct most of the problem I attached (2) parallel cawls under the table that I can tension up to reverse the sag. Works nice with one exception, in my case it only corrects the problem in one direction (I chose to straighten parallel with the fence).

I like the idea of a torsion box design. I will probably utilize that as the backbone for the tip of my next router table should that day come.

-- Just 'cause a cat has kittens in the oven, it don't make 'em biscuits.

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drbob

25 posts in 314 days


293 days ago

I recently included a router review on my blog. Hope it helps: http://www.woodworkingtipsandtools.com/2009/02/wood-router-reviews/

-- drbob at http://www.Woodworkingtipsandtools.com

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mmax

52 posts in 354 days


293 days ago

I have the Jessem system and use a 3 1/4 hp Porter Cable Speedmatic. So far it has been able to handle any task I have thrown at it and the accuracy is fantastic.

-- Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else

View Rob1's profile

Rob1

23 posts in 297 days


289 days ago

I built my own table incorporated into a rolling storage box. The top is two pieces of 3/4 MDF laminated together, and coated in Polyureathane. I have a lift – cannot remember which one, PC 890 motor, and I boxed in the motor and added a vacuum port. I added one of those tool switches with big buttons to the front of the box. 95% of the time nearly all the dust goes into the vac. I must lift the router ( and router lift ) out of the top to change bits – not very dificult.

The top is 36” x 24” and doubles as a work table. Inside the box is storage for tools.

-- Regards, Rob

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doyoulikegumwood

278 posts in 891 days


289 days ago

i just wanted to correct pitch almost all the new routers if matched to the right plate are 100% adjustable from top side now fine wood working did a review and i want to say at lest 5 of the best routers have top side releses for the lock my PC matched to A rockler plate has 2 holes you put the adjuster tool in the left hole to relese the lock and then put it in the right hole to adjust and then lock it back up. the problem with my PC 890 is bit changes are doable topside but you have to really work at it i find it easyer to pull it out for that.

-- I buy tools so i can make more money,so ican buy more tools so I can work more, to make more money, so I can buy more tool, so I can work more

View Woodchuck1957's profile

Woodchuck1957

950 posts in 662 days


289 days ago

I have the Porter-Cable 890 also and the thing that gets to me about the router is why doesn’t it come with the special wrench to make the topside lock and adjustment ? It is a over priced $30 accessories.

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Rob1

23 posts in 297 days


288 days ago

The Porter-Cable 890 is sold with one wrench, and has the push button spindel lock. I would go back to who ever sold you your router and voice your concerns.

-- Regards, Rob

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Woodchuck1957

950 posts in 662 days


288 days ago

Rob, this is the tool that I’m talking about. Height Adjustment tool

View doyoulikegumwood's profile

doyoulikegumwood

278 posts in 891 days


282 days ago

woodchuck it depends on where you buy the combo kit from some places sell it with the adjuster and others dont the difference in price for the kits is you guessed it 30 bucks

-- I buy tools so i can make more money,so ican buy more tools so I can work more, to make more money, so I can buy more tool, so I can work more

View marcb's profile

marcb

705 posts in 572 days


281 days ago

One thing to keep in mind is that the only true above table adjustment comes with a dedicated lift plate. The “adjustable” routers and router bases still need you to reach under the table to release and lock the height adjustment. I have reviews of a few lift plates, primarily the Woodpeckers line which is very popular iin the Router of my Tool Reviews, scroll down to the Router Accessories section.

Tom,

I’m not sure about the rest, but the Freud has a above the table lock function. Not positioned the best, but you don’t have to go under the table. It is very hard to get at the router on my table so I know it works.

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scarpenter002

93 posts in 803 days


281 days ago

I used the Woodpecker’s Plungelift and the Hitachi M12V. I also purchased the bent wrench to be able to change the bit from above the table. I bought my M12V about two years ago before they came out the new model and got it for about $130. Great deal for 3hp router. I love both of these items.

-- Scott in Texas

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BamaCummins

54 posts in 474 days


280 days ago

I purchased a benchtop with stand from http://www.routertabledepot.com/ and am satisfied with it. The only thing that doesn’t seem to be quite right is the insert seems to be a little flimsy which will distort your profile on a long piece of wood. I may have to replace with an aluminum that won’t flex.

-- "I don't know, we haven't played Alabama yet." -- Vince Lombardi after being asked what it felt like to be the greatest football team in the world just after winning the '66 Super Bowl.

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Paul

118 posts in 488 days


280 days ago

Anyone have comments on Norm’s Router Table? I just ordered plans for it because I think it looks neat and has lots of storage.
http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0301

-- Paul, La Center, Washington

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

275 posts in 512 days


279 days ago

Paul – You’ll find lotsa of people here that own a copy of this router table including me. I’ve had mine now for about 2 years and I love it!

As for storage, well, it has room for more bits than I will ever afford or use. I have been thinking seriously about reworking mine this summer to remove the bit storage drawers on side of the router and convert that space into a large vertical space to store patterns and move the switch to the front of the table like this one.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View Steve Maskery's profile

Steve Maskery

23 posts in 283 days


279 days ago

Another vote here for Norm’s Deluxe version. I adjusted the height so it would be moveable on 3” locking wheels and I altered the fence so that it is micro-adjustable on an M6 leadscrew (so 1 turn is 1mm, but I guess you’d use a 3/8”x16tpi one – same thing). It’s not difficult to built, the drawings and instructions are good and I have never regretted building it.

The only disappointing aspect is the lower rear DX, but that might be my inadequate shopvac. You are much better collecting it at source anyway.

Cheers
Steve

-- http://www.workshopessentials.com - The Ultimate Tablesaw Tenon Jig and more.

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