Router table and Router

Budget and Power are the first questions…..

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

which car should I get?

lol ;) just kidding… but your question is far too general… as sIKE said – what is your budget? what are you planning to use it for?

I’d do a search for “router table” on lumberjocks.com and see what other people have come up with – i’ll give you an idea to start with – see what people used, what people MADE, what people use it for, and how people set theirs up… get you started with ideas for your own :)

enjoy the ride mister!

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

Well, I like the stand on the Kreg portable table, and I like the Woodpeckers aluminum table insert, and I like the Freud fence, and I bought a Porter-Cable 890 router. Kreg wouldn’t sell me just the stand, so I made my own and added a 1 1/4” MDF top, laminated on both sides, and threw it all together. This spring when it warms up outside I plan on painting the stand. I call it a Fregpecker router table.

I’ve always heard the Triton routers are the way to go. I have one on my wish list but havn’t used one yet.

-- Alan, Prince George

Build your own table and install a WoodPecker’s Precision Router Lift (Generation 1 or 2).

There’s only one router … the Porter-Cable 7518. All the router lift manufacturers accommodate this router as standard.

-- Just 'cause a cat has kittens in the oven, it don't make 'em biscuits.

I have a Freud but build your own and you will be soooooooo happy with it!

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

I have a cast iron table from Bench Dog that mounts on my table saw. I was looking for some space savings and a little extra support on the saw. I must say I am very happy with my decision. As for the router I have all Bosch, dont remember the model, variable speed 2.25hp and it has been able to handle everything I have thrown at it. If I were to do it over I dont think I would change a thing.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

I thought about attaching the router to a tablesaw wing but I decided that I wanted a portable router table like I had before. The problem that I could see with it attached to the table saw is if I needed the table saw, I’d have to move the fence, or take off the fence, and then lower the bit, then the router table would have to be setup again.

I won’t post a review until I’ve had more time with it, but thus far I’ve been very happy with my Rockler table. And with the 20% off coupon I had it was only $160. I can’t comment on durability yet, but it seems to work well.

-- Steve -- University Heights, Ohio

I built this one (http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/JohnGray/blog/5615) and I love it. My main suggestion on a router table is to make/buy one that contains the under side of the table, you’d be surprised how much dust comes out the bottom.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

One thing I found out about building my own was that it was VERY time consumeing, and expensive. I think it turned out real well, and I’m happy with it, but I’m not sure I’d do it again. I do however think Woodpeckers makes the best aluminum router plate insert.

I built mine, including the fence and aluminum insert a few years ago. While the fence could be a bit better, and I’m working on upgrading that, it is a very good router table.

My top is 1 1/2” thick made out of 2 3/4” chunks of MDF laminated with simple kitchen countertop. The top sits on a very simple MDF square that was just glued and screwed together. I hinged one side for access if I need it, a bit awkward, I should have made a door.

I have a Freud 1700 sitting in it. It has above the table bit changes. It works decent, probably not as nice a a real lift but its a good deal with a budget (you can sometimes find them at Lowes online for 99 bucks for the 2 base kit, woodcraft has them on sale last I looked for 124).

I planed to put some T-Track in on the top for featherboards, have yet to get around to it. The extra thick top would help there.

I can’t comment on router table yet, as mine isn’t built (going to make a quick and dirty one first…to let me make the nicer one) whenever it actually warms up around here…

However, I bought a porter cable 890 series (2 1/4hp plunge and fixed base) from CPO, factory reconditioned, and it’s beautiful, and was very cheap that way!

-- "That which has in itself the greatest use, possesses the greatest beauty." - Unknown Shaker

As Woodchuck has stated it can become a hassle to have tobreak down the router table to use the table saw. I have found that with proper planning and milling sequence I have been able to minimize the number of times that has happened. In my situation, I dont have enough open floor space to dedicate to a router table. I have a 2 car garage that is shared with household storage. I am aware there are limitations to my current set up, but for now it works well for me. As for my router I have a bosch 1617evs, couldnt remember it earlier.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

Ken, don’t get me wrong, I think the Benchdog cast top is very, very nice, but like you say, we all have different preferances on what works for each of us, or can afford.

An alternative to mounting the router in the saw top is to mount it in the right side extension. I can easily switch back and forth between cutting and routing without losing my router setup. If I were to have a set up on the left side of the blade it would interfere with use of my crosscut sled and miter guide. Oh yeah, it’s mobile too.

-- Just 'cause a cat has kittens in the oven, it don't make 'em biscuits.

Check out www.patwarner.com for some terrific advice on router tables, tops and routers. I have numerous routers and the Milwaukee 5625 is the best for router table use. It has built in micro adjustment, removeable motor to change bits, 3.5 HP for any task and soft start motor. It scored high in Pat Warner’s review and my heavy use has shown it to be the best. With it, there is no need for an expensive router lift.

In my experience, router table tops with inserts eventually sag. Using a top of 3/4” MDF, a torsion box structure for top support and bolting the router directly to the top is ideal. With the Milwaukee 5625 router removeable motor, it is easy to change bits. Plus you can have multiple tops – one with a small opening for normal use and one with a large opening for a raised panel cutter. Pat Warner’s site has numerous pictures of the design. It is inexpensive and works long term better than the expensive table insert version that I used for years and ended up with a sagging top.

I have the frued 31/2 hp plunge, so far so good. great power, easy operating and great price

-- jay Rambling on and on again

What do you folks think about the simple table used on The Router Workshop?

-- Dragonsrite, Minnesota

Guys, I just got the Bosch portable router table and the 2 1/4HP router combo for this years CHW show in Toronto….and I am floored by this table. I am a long time freud table user (and they are great tables), but this bosch is the cat’s meow. It’s big, solid, and full of features that I didn’t even know I needed untill I used it :)

-- If you can't set a good example, at least serve as a horrible warning... www.rarewoodcreations.com

i’m with Alan on this one. I just got a Triton TRC001 3 1/4 hp router for christmas, and this thing really kicks a$$ , i tricked it out with the Veritas router table and fence / sled system. and it works like a dream. The fence system is unbeleivable, it is so versatile it can be used to do just about any type of jontery. you can also use it as a jointer. Check it out at LeeValley.com It cost a small fortune but I know it will last me a life time.
The router is suprisingly quiet and has a built in dust collection port which gobbles up the chips.

-- People who say it cannot be done should not interup those who are doing it

One thing to keep in mind is that the only true above table adjustment comes with a dedicated lift plate. The “adjustable” routers and router bases still need you to reach under the table to release and lock the height adjustment. I have reviews of a few lift plates, primarily the Woodpeckers line which is very popular iin the Router of my Tool Reviews, scroll down to the Router Accessories section.

-- Tom Hintz, www.newwoodworker.com

As mentioned more than once above, a significant issue with most router tables, shop made or purchased, is having one that is flat. I found this to be true when I installed my router in my tablesaw extension. In order to correct most of the problem I attached (2) parallel cawls under the table that I can tension up to reverse the sag. Works nice with one exception, in my case it only corrects the problem in one direction (I chose to straighten parallel with the fence).

I like the idea of a torsion box design. I will probably utilize that as the backbone for the tip of my next router table should that day come.

-- Just 'cause a cat has kittens in the oven, it don't make 'em biscuits.

I recently included a router review on my blog. Hope it helps: http://www.woodworkingtipsandtools.com/2009/02/wood-router-reviews/

-- drbob at http://www.Woodworkingtipsandtools.com

I have the Jessem system and use a 3 1/4 hp Porter Cable Speedmatic. So far it has been able to handle any task I have thrown at it and the accuracy is fantastic.

-- Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else

I built my own table incorporated into a rolling storage box. The top is two pieces of 3/4 MDF laminated together, and coated in Polyureathane. I have a lift – cannot remember which one, PC 890 motor, and I boxed in the motor and added a vacuum port. I added one of those tool switches with big buttons to the front of the box. 95% of the time nearly all the dust goes into the vac. I must lift the router ( and router lift ) out of the top to change bits – not very dificult.

The top is 36” x 24” and doubles as a work table. Inside the box is storage for tools.

-- Regards, Rob

i just wanted to correct pitch almost all the new routers if matched to the right plate are 100% adjustable from top side now fine wood working did a review and i want to say at lest 5 of the best routers have top side releses for the lock my PC matched to A rockler plate has 2 holes you put the adjuster tool in the left hole to relese the lock and then put it in the right hole to adjust and then lock it back up. the problem with my PC 890 is bit changes are doable topside but you have to really work at it i find it easyer to pull it out for that.

-- I buy tools so i can make more money,so ican buy more tools so I can work more, to make more money, so I can buy more tool, so I can work more

I have the Porter-Cable 890 also and the thing that gets to me about the router is why doesn’t it come with the special wrench to make the topside lock and adjustment ? It is a over priced $30 accessories.

The Porter-Cable 890 is sold with one wrench, and has the push button spindel lock. I would go back to who ever sold you your router and voice your concerns.

-- Regards, Rob

Rob, this is the tool that I’m talking about. Height Adjustment tool

woodchuck it depends on where you buy the combo kit from some places sell it with the adjuster and others dont the difference in price for the kits is you guessed it 30 bucks

-- I buy tools so i can make more money,so ican buy more tools so I can work more, to make more money, so I can buy more tool, so I can work more

One thing to keep in mind is that the only true above table adjustment comes with a dedicated lift plate. The “adjustable” routers and router bases still need you to reach under the table to release and lock the height adjustment. I have reviews of a few lift plates, primarily the Woodpeckers line which is very popular iin the Router of my Tool Reviews, scroll down to the Router Accessories section.

Tom,

I’m not sure about the rest, but the Freud has a above the table lock function. Not positioned the best, but you don’t have to go under the table. It is very hard to get at the router on my table so I know it works.

I used the Woodpecker’s Plungelift and the Hitachi M12V. I also purchased the bent wrench to be able to change the bit from above the table. I bought my M12V about two years ago before they came out the new model and got it for about $130. Great deal for 3hp router. I love both of these items.

-- Scott in Texas

I purchased a benchtop with stand from http://www.routertabledepot.com/ and am satisfied with it. The only thing that doesn’t seem to be quite right is the insert seems to be a little flimsy which will distort your profile on a long piece of wood. I may have to replace with an aluminum that won’t flex.

-- "I don't know, we haven't played Alabama yet." -- Vince Lombardi after being asked what it felt like to be the greatest football team in the world just after winning the '66 Super Bowl.

Anyone have comments on Norm’s Router Table? I just ordered plans for it because I think it looks neat and has lots of storage.
http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0301

-- Paul, La Center, Washington

Paul – You’ll find lotsa of people here that own a copy of this router table including me. I’ve had mine now for about 2 years and I love it!

As for storage, well, it has room for more bits than I will ever afford or use. I have been thinking seriously about reworking mine this summer to remove the bit storage drawers on side of the router and convert that space into a large vertical space to store patterns and move the switch to the front of the table like this one.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

Another vote here for Norm’s Deluxe version. I adjusted the height so it would be moveable on 3” locking wheels and I altered the fence so that it is micro-adjustable on an M6 leadscrew (so 1 turn is 1mm, but I guess you’d use a 3/8”x16tpi one – same thing). It’s not difficult to built, the drawings and instructions are good and I have never regretted building it.

The only disappointing aspect is the lower rear DX, but that might be my inadequate shopvac. You are much better collecting it at source anyway.

Cheers
Steve

-- http://www.workshopessentials.com - The Ultimate Tablesaw Tenon Jig and more.