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Filler/finish compatibility and advice

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Forum topic by Blackcatbone posted 09-14-2014 10:30 PM 711 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Blackcatbone

32 posts in 818 days


09-14-2014 10:30 PM

New here and already asking questions. I’ve landed in the forum a number of times through Google and folks seemed pretty knowledgeable and friendly so figured I’d sign up.

Onto my question(s). I’m working out the details of a table top and am not quite sure about the best way to proceed. I’m working with ambrosia maple with nice spalting and worm holes which I plan on accentuating with dark filler and finishing with either Danish or tung oil. There’s one spot that has a knot with soft wood which I would like to dig out and fill, incorporating it into the overall design. Here is where I’m unsure. With a larger area and plans to finish with oil will there be compatibility issues? Would I need to worry about the color bleeding into the lighter surrounding wood? Due to there being a considerable chunk of “not wood” I know that the sheen will likely be different so I’m okay with going with that rather than fighting it and am open to non-wood solutions, like Bondo and paint, as an example. To give a little further background, the base of the table is an angle iron machinery /equipment base which I’ve been forcing a patina on so it’s a bit of a “mixed media” project already. Worst case scenario, I have enough to cut that piece out and bypass the issue altogether, but saw it and thought, hmmmmm, maybe I can use that. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

-- . . . it's cheaper than therapy.


4 replies so far

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

2575 posts in 1724 days


#1 posted 09-14-2014 11:40 PM

I might try to fill it with epoxy with black dye (you can also use lamp black) or cover it with a dutchman.

-- Art

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Blackcatbone

32 posts in 818 days


#2 posted 09-15-2014 12:09 PM

Thank you, I hadn’t thought of epoxy but you’ve sent me down a series of rabbit holes which led me to knife grade epoxy which is looking really promising.

-- . . . it's cheaper than therapy.

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1533 posts in 1828 days


#3 posted 09-15-2014 12:37 PM

Epoxy is the way to go. However, you might want to consider a film (resin) finish like poly, either oil or water based, instead of a drying oil. The poly will impart greater visual depth as well as more protection. I suggest a waterborne poly floor finish in your sheen of choice.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

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Blackcatbone

32 posts in 818 days


#4 posted 09-15-2014 04:59 PM

Picked up some epoxy from a granite wholesaler this morning. I’ll be experimenting with tinting it until I find what I like, what works.


Epoxy is the way to go. However, you might want to consider a film (resin) finish like poly, either oil or water based, instead of a drying oil. The poly will impart greater visual depth as well as more protection. I suggest a waterborne poly floor finish in your sheen of choice.

- Clint Searl

Y’all are making me rethink all kinds of things, which isn’t a bad thing. I was under the impression that an oil would impart greater depth but I guess I was wrong there, which is no big surprise as going with a natural finish is new territory for me, as I’ve only stained up until now. Thank you for the tips.

-- . . . it's cheaper than therapy.

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