Transporting Cabinet Saw

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Forum topic by Scott C. posted 09-13-2014 02:45 PM 1892 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Scott C.

158 posts in 2049 days

09-13-2014 02:45 PM

I’m considering a used Grizzly g1023sl to replace my ridgid contractors saw. It’s about 2 hours away and I’m planing on renting an enclosed uhaul trailer to move it. I think the saw can fit in the trailer without disassembling it if I remove the fence and splitter. I’m wondering if I should remove the motor so it’s not bouncing around. I’ve done some research and some say to brace it but I haven’t been able to find pictures of the inside of this thing to figure out exactly how that would be accomplished. Any advice? Maybe some pictures of the inside of this thing?

-- measure twice, cut once, swear and start over.

15 replies so far

View TheWoodenOyster's profile


1317 posts in 1933 days

#1 posted 09-13-2014 03:02 PM

I moved a lot of heavy tools a few months ago. Lots of cast iron. I rented a truck with a lift gate, so I just rolled my machines onto the lift gate and pressed the button. It takes the lifting out of the equation, which is nice. The truck rental is a little more expensive and might not be worth it for just one machine.

As far as keep the motor still, I would try to use a small ratchet strap. That’ll keep it in place as long as you can find something to latch onto with it.

How are you planning on getting it up into the trailer?

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

View Scott C.'s profile

Scott C.

158 posts in 2049 days

#2 posted 09-13-2014 03:44 PM

Not sure about loading into the trailer. I’m going to take a look at the ramp on the u haul. The saw has the shop fox mobile base, but I imagine the wheels on that are small and might have difficulty with the ramp.

-- measure twice, cut once, swear and start over.

View TheWoodenOyster's profile


1317 posts in 1933 days

#3 posted 09-13-2014 04:02 PM

I think the Lift gate truck was maybe $30 more expensive or so. It is sort of overkill, but if it saves you from disassembling and reassembling the saw, it is worth it in my opinion. Pulling out the motor taking the fence off, taking the cast iron tops off is a lot of work. When I was moving my shop, I thought about a regular uhaul with a ramp, but honestly, it never would have worked. I have about 1.5 inch diameter wheels on my planer stand, and they worked fine with the lift gate.

You may have 3 or 4 really strong friends. That would work too. I had my parents and my in laws. I didn’t want to send my dad and father in law to the hospital on the same day…

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

View TheFridge's profile


9460 posts in 1484 days

#4 posted 09-13-2014 04:55 PM

Lift gate.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Richard H's profile

Richard H

489 posts in 1678 days

#5 posted 09-13-2014 05:14 PM

The Uhaul 5X9 or 6X12 utility trailer with ramp version is great for moving heavy items. It’s open which might be a problem in bad weather but really easy to work around and the ramp is across the entire width of the back of the trailer and very long. A lift gate would be easier still but I thought those where only on the larger trucks?

I find the long skinny ramps used on most of Uhauls trailers very poor for this kind of work. You can really only have one person on each end when you are moving it into the trailer so it’s difficult with very heavy items.

View Loren's profile


10390 posts in 3646 days

#6 posted 09-13-2014 05:21 PM

You’ll have a tricky time getting a mobile base with
a saw to go up a u-haul ramp.

To move a 3hp table saw or shaper I take off the
wings and fence and lean a 72” x 30” piece of
plywood or similar at an angle between the
back of a vehicle and the bottom of the machine,
tip the machine onto the ply. Then lift the
ply with the machine on it to horizontal and
slide the sheet into the vehicle. Takes two
guys to do the lift. If you can hump 90 lb
sheets of MDF yourself you can do the lift.

View toolie's profile


2121 posts in 2626 days

#7 posted 09-13-2014 09:59 PM

When moving the saw, bevel the motor to 45 degrees so the center of gravity is within the saw’s cabinet. Removing the fence rails, combined with bevelling the motor, will make the weight of the saw much easier to handle. That’s how I picked up the unisaw I owned and refurbed,and it’s how I loaded it into the buyer’ car when I sold it 5 months later.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View TechTeacher04's profile


383 posts in 1529 days

#8 posted 09-13-2014 10:41 PM

I have moved several saws by removing the fence and extension tables and using a heavy duty hand truck. Make sure you have a friend to help move it. I would remove the motor provided it is an easy task, otherwise carefully brace it.

View buildingmonkey's profile


242 posts in 1545 days

#9 posted 09-14-2014 08:07 PM

I built a tilt bed trailer to move my lawnmower and ATV around. Think I would back it up to the saw and use a come-along to pull it onto the trailer. It has a 1 1/2”edge to get over, so might have to use some wood to get over that, but works well to move fairly heavy things. Have to get the saw to the tip point to get the trailer horizontal. The mobile base should help with loading and unloading.

-- Jim from Kansas

View runswithscissors's profile


2751 posts in 2023 days

#10 posted 09-15-2014 04:24 AM

If you can’t swing the lift gate, Loren has the right idea. Don’t over think this. It’s not that hard. When I bought my used Unisaw, the seller and I tilted it onto my PU’s liftgate, and slid it into the bed. I secured it so it wouldn’t go skidding around. At home, I slid it out till the cabinet was dangling, tilted it down, and it landed with a little thump. No damage. Unloaded it by myself. Even a big saw isn’t that hard to “walk” around and into position when you have it on the ground.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View TheFridge's profile


9460 posts in 1484 days

#11 posted 09-15-2014 04:44 AM

Have to pick up a 70s 3 hp unisaw in 12 hours. Lift gate not an option. Have trailer and help. Is the table easy to pull off?

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View mdawson2's profile


35 posts in 1970 days

#12 posted 09-15-2014 12:31 PM

I bought my Grizzly 1023SL about 18 months ago. It was the first large piece of machinery I’ve had to haul. I took an open trailer with a flat wooden floor and an expanded metal gate/ramp at the back. I removed the blade, splitter, fence and wings. I left it on the mobile base, placed some plywood on the metal gate and rolled the machine up the ramp. There were 4 guys to make sure it went smoothly, but we could have done it with just 2. In fact only 2 of us got the saw off the trailer. Once the saw was on the trailer I screwed 2×4 blocks to the floor around the mobile base to keep it from moving. I used a strap to secure the motor from bouncing around. I used a couple of blankets and a tarp to cover the saw before strapping it to the trailer for the 90 minute ride home. It arrived safely and securely, much easier than I expected actually.

Here is the saw after getting it off the trailer.

View bonesbr549's profile


1548 posts in 3065 days

#13 posted 09-15-2014 06:32 PM

I sold my Grizzly 1023 slx with 7’ rails and heavy duty stand. Me and the guy that bought it disassembled it to the point that it was just the cabinet top and motor (removed rails & wings). I used an appliance dolly to take it out of my basement and myself and him, put it in the back of his F-150 pickup. Yes we put it in the back and strapped it down and it was covered with a blanket and wrapped in plastic. He drove 2 hrs to get it.

He left and I did check with him via e-mail and a neighbor helped him get it out off the truck and into his garage. If you have a couple buddies, it’s not that big a deal. We did nothing special to the motor. It’s not like a contractors saw where it floats. Just put it all the way down and lock it. It won’t move. Take care and enjoy the new toy.

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

View toolie's profile


2121 posts in 2626 days

#14 posted 09-15-2014 10:56 PM

Fridge: Remove the table carefully, checking for shims at the bolt points. They are necessary to realign the table and ensure that 45 degree bevel rips are accurate through the length of the cut.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2656 posts in 2920 days

#15 posted 09-16-2014 02:13 AM

Another option: I moved my whole shop for $250. I did it alone. I got one of those PODS and built a 3 1/2” ramp and rolled all my equipment in and out. The PODS comnpany hauled it for me.

-- Website is No PHD just a DD214 and a GED

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