LumberJocks

Installing built-in book case flush with wall

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by robc posted 09-12-2014 04:45 PM 673 views 1 time favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View robc's profile

robc

22 posts in 2507 days


09-12-2014 04:45 PM

Topic tags/keywords: built in custom scribe bookcase question

I am building to large bookcase/built in. They will look like to separate pieces that flank a wbf and mantle. Looking for advice on the construction and getting it flush to wall. Should leave 1/2 inch of plywood off the back to then scribe to wall. They will be anchor to the wall. I would like it to be flat to the wall with out trim. Just looking for advice on how to handle this.


5 replies so far

View mahdee's profile

mahdee

3551 posts in 1230 days


#1 posted 09-12-2014 04:51 PM

PM reedwood. He is an expert at it.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View pmayer's profile

pmayer

864 posts in 2528 days


#2 posted 09-12-2014 04:57 PM

Check the wall for plumb to see how much overhang you will need off the back of the cabinet, then build your overhang accordingly. 1/2” is probably adequate, but it might not be. As far as creating the actual overhang and installing, I have done this a couple different ways:

1. Do as you describe. Leave an overhang off the back and use that as your scribe. Cut a rabbet on the back of the plywood so that you only have to scribe 1/4” rather than the full thickness of the plywood. Cut to your scribe line with a good jig saw, and tune the fit with a hand plane (something you don’t mind planing plywood with).

or

2. Build your face frame with a 1/4” overhang (making it 1/4” wider than the bookcase) and after the cabinet is installed, use a piece of 1/4” plywood to cover the visible side, and scribe that to the wall. That allows you to use a lower grade of plywood that has only one good face. It also makes the process of tweaking the scribe fit much easier. After it fits perfectly just apply a bit of glue and use a few pin nails to tack it in place

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

View robc's profile

robc

22 posts in 2507 days


#3 posted 09-12-2014 05:10 PM

It’s actually the back of the cabinet that I have to fit. Not the face frame.

View robc's profile

robc

22 posts in 2507 days


#4 posted 09-12-2014 05:12 PM

I see what you’re say now. The pic I post is basically what it will look like. Just use 1/4 ply to scribe and cover up the side. That’s a good idea. Thank you.

View pmayer's profile

pmayer

864 posts in 2528 days


#5 posted 09-12-2014 05:21 PM

yep, exactly. I more commonly use approach #1, but #2 works great as well, particularly for larger cabinets that can be a bit unwieldy to work with.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com