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Forum topic by Ub1chris posted 09-11-2014 03:30 PM 1039 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Ub1chris

85 posts in 839 days


09-11-2014 03:30 PM

I recently got a #5 and #7. and when someone told me its a slippery sloe I’m on, I didn’t realize how slippery…

I was in an antique store and they had a box of rusty old planes, so naturally I was poking around and found a #6 that looked to be not as bad as the rest of the box.

It’s rusty, but looks mostly like surface rust only, very dirty, and the top of the handle is broken off, and some of the paint is done. I know very little about plane restoration, so I’ve been perusing this site, and will probably ask lots of questions in the next little while. I’m not sure if I’ll go for “user condition” or take it a step further to “showroom condition” Time will tell…At $20 for a #6, what’s the worst that could happen

Anyways, here’s the before pics. Not sure how long till ya’ll get to see the finished product as Im a little busy these days.

As a side note, beside the box of planes, there was a shelf of Disstons labelled $5-10. I didn’t give in as I know even less about handsaws, but I’ve been reading some saw threads, and now its got me thinking. And I know where they are….

Chris


15 replies so far

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JayT

4770 posts in 1670 days


#1 posted 09-11-2014 04:02 PM

I think I was one to comment on the slippery slope on your other thread. Welcome to the ride.

$20 for #6 in that condition is a pretty good buy. Here is a great tutorial on repairing a tote with the horn broken off. If you decide to just make a new tote, then Lee Valley has templates for the various sizes for Stanley planes.

For overall restoration advice, DonW’s guide is a very good place to start. Past that, don’t hesitate to ask any questions. There are a bunch of us here that started very much like you and are more than willing to help. One thing about the slippery slope, it’s never lonely.

As a side note, beside the box of planes, there was a shelf of Disstons labelled $5-10. I didn t give in as I know even less about handsaws, but I ve been reading some saw threads, and now its got me thinking. And I know where they are….

Chris

- Ub1chris

Careful, that a steep slope all its own. :-)

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

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nicksmurf111

361 posts in 910 days


#2 posted 09-11-2014 08:15 PM

That’s not a Bailey is it? It looks like the lever is stamped. Does it have a frog adjustment screw? I’ve been picky with my flee market/garage sale purchases and have been passing up everything that isn’t a Stanley Bailey.

-- Nicholas

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bandit571

14526 posts in 2142 days


#3 posted 09-11-2014 08:21 PM

That one may have been made before the frog adjuster screw was used. Those came in at Type 11.

Note it also has a low knob. Might have been from before the patent dates were cast in the base.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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bandit571

14526 posts in 2142 days


#4 posted 09-11-2014 08:24 PM

Note: to those that pass up anything not a Stanley Bailey

Ever seen a Millers Falls premium plane?

Sargent Planes?

Union before Stanley bought them out?

Unless, of course, one’s aim at only Stanley Bailey ( what, no Bedrock ones?) is to flip them on Ebay…

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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nicksmurf111

361 posts in 910 days


#5 posted 09-11-2014 08:28 PM

Myself, I just have a hard time going to flee markets with a good idea of what something is worth and it it is worth my time to clean it up. Subsequently, I’ve passed up a lot of good deals (like I really had that much money in my pocket to buy everything at once). I’ve seen Miller Falls and Sargent, but don’t know what’s premium vs. not.

-- Nicholas

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bandit571

14526 posts in 2142 days


#6 posted 09-11-2014 08:36 PM

Re: Millers Falls: Look on the left hand side. IF the number is a single digit, BUY IT! Well unless it says 14 and the like. The y went up to 24. A #9 is way better than a #90, which is way better than a #900.

Sargent: VBM? Autosets? Numbers that begin with 4 0r 7?

Union were so good, Stanley HAD to buy them out.

in 1920, that is…

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Ub1chris's profile

Ub1chris

85 posts in 839 days


#7 posted 09-11-2014 08:39 PM

Nick, it is a Stanley Bailey, my photos are kind of lame so it might be hard to tell. It does have the frog adjustment screw. Dates in the base are March 25, 02. Aug 19, 02. Apr 19, 10. I had to scrape away the grime to read them.

Jay, I think I will try to make a new tote with the LV plans. Should be another whole adventure in itself.

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Don W

17955 posts in 2027 days


#8 posted 09-11-2014 11:19 PM

here is some help making a new tote, http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/23626

highlight, drill the hole first!!

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

View nicksmurf111's profile

nicksmurf111

361 posts in 910 days


#9 posted 09-12-2014 01:45 PM

After finding the LV link yesterday, I think I’m going to make some.

-- Nicholas

View Ub1chris's profile

Ub1chris

85 posts in 839 days


#10 posted 09-12-2014 06:16 PM

I went to crappytire and got some evaporust to use overnight tonight. Now for my newbie question, is there any part of the plane (besides the tote and knob obviously) that can’t go in the evaporust?

Chris

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nicksmurf111

361 posts in 910 days


#11 posted 09-12-2014 06:21 PM

I always scrub tools with abrasives. Won’t evaporust stain it?

-- Nicholas

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OSU55

1056 posts in 1449 days


#12 posted 09-12-2014 07:09 PM

Evapo Rust is an excellent choice imo. It will leave a layer of black oxide which can easily be removed with steel wool or scotchbrite. Not really for restoration but tuning of your plane, here is a source http://lumberjocks.com/OSU55/blog . As others have mentioned, welcome to the slippery slope of hand planes!

View Don W's profile

Don W

17955 posts in 2027 days


#13 posted 09-12-2014 08:50 PM

all metal parts can go in evapo rust, but it won’t help or hurt the brass. Also make sure everything is full submerged. If anything is sticking out, you’ll have an etch line at the water line.

It will typically not hurt japanning unless there is rust under it. I have had it pull the grey paint off some newer Millers Falls though.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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derosa

1568 posts in 2295 days


#14 posted 09-13-2014 01:12 AM

Also had it strip all the paint off an ohio no 7 plane. Wasn’t in wonderful shape and don’t care as I just want a user but avoid it with paint if a collector’s piece.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View Logan Windram's profile

Logan Windram

303 posts in 1921 days


#15 posted 09-13-2014 01:29 AM

If the milling looked good on the plane bed, 20 is a steal. Flatten and clean up that sole, polish and hone that blade and see if it makes nearly transparent shavings…

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